overheating
#1
overheating
Hey guys. New to this sight. Have had my mother inlaws 1999 Dorango for two weeks now. It's overheating and for no apparent reason it will not start from time to time. Starter turns the motor over fine but will not start. Let it set a few minutes and it will bust right off. The overheating is running crazy. put a stat in it, changed the waterpump, clutch fan, drained the coolant and replaced all with correct ratio of 50/50. Her machanic took the stat out and it did not run hot as much but I would rather find the problem and not run it without a stat, besides it still ran hot on occation in traffic. I need to get this thing fixed so I can get off the couch so any help you all could give me will be greatly appriciated.
#2
#4
LMAO!...........Pepboys hater..........
I remember back in the day, I took my truck to them to take a look at the front brakes because they were grinding. (This is before I new how to do disk brakes). Well they told me that my brake pads were gone and it was going to cost me like $500 bucks! This was back in 1994! I told them to put my truck back together and drop it! They told me that they couldn't put it back together and drop it back to my custody with out installing new rotors and brake pads for the $500 bucks. I sat there and fought with the manager for over 45 minutes just to get them to drop it! They told me buy LAW they couldn't drop it knowing there was a problem? Talk about BS! I ran every single person out of there by just hearing me rip that ******* apart. (kinda funny now.....LOL) They finally put the wheels back on and dropped it. The funny thing is thats all they had to do and they fought THAT hard for my cash!
Well I went home using the e-brake and taking it REALLY easy and replaced the pads. The rotors had just a skiff and weren't bad because I stopped using them with the first sign of a problem. I lived in BFE so not using the brakes was VERY simple. I still think of that *** from time to time but I NEVER have them work on the smallest thing BC of it!
As far as I'm concerened, eveyone else that has gone to them that I've went with got screwed so I'm done with em!
I remember back in the day, I took my truck to them to take a look at the front brakes because they were grinding. (This is before I new how to do disk brakes). Well they told me that my brake pads were gone and it was going to cost me like $500 bucks! This was back in 1994! I told them to put my truck back together and drop it! They told me that they couldn't put it back together and drop it back to my custody with out installing new rotors and brake pads for the $500 bucks. I sat there and fought with the manager for over 45 minutes just to get them to drop it! They told me buy LAW they couldn't drop it knowing there was a problem? Talk about BS! I ran every single person out of there by just hearing me rip that ******* apart. (kinda funny now.....LOL) They finally put the wheels back on and dropped it. The funny thing is thats all they had to do and they fought THAT hard for my cash!
Well I went home using the e-brake and taking it REALLY easy and replaced the pads. The rotors had just a skiff and weren't bad because I stopped using them with the first sign of a problem. I lived in BFE so not using the brakes was VERY simple. I still think of that *** from time to time but I NEVER have them work on the smallest thing BC of it!
As far as I'm concerened, eveyone else that has gone to them that I've went with got screwed so I'm done with em!
#6
I thought as much, the radiator was next on my list, just very expensive. One question before I spend that 200 bucks. I was told about a valve, maybe a check valve, in the line going to the heater coil that has been known to stick and cause similar problems. I have never heard of such a valve ona any vehicle. Does any of you know if one actually exists and if so where is it?
#7
Any takers on the random not starting???? It is very random and hasn't done it with me when cold. Only after being driven a while like stoping breifly at a stop and rob for a coke. Turn the key, motor turns over strong but just won't fire off. Wait about 5 to 10 minutes and it will crank right up on the first time. I'm leaning toward the PCM being bad. Any way to test the PCM without just replacing it? Don't know why everytime my mother in law has a problem it always seams to cost me BIG. Come on guys this couch is getting old. I have to order the readiator and as soon a I get it I'll let you all know if that was it and thanks for the advice so far.
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#8
i would guess fuel pump or fuel pump relay, (check the relay first)
try turning the key to on to see if you can hear the pump priming the system (on, NOT start) if it doesnt make noise either the pump is shot or the relay has gone bad
i dont think this is a pcm issue, at least not based on the information that we have right now
try turning the key to on to see if you can hear the pump priming the system (on, NOT start) if it doesnt make noise either the pump is shot or the relay has gone bad
i dont think this is a pcm issue, at least not based on the information that we have right now
#9
Rwiley,
Lets stay on track on your overheating issue. Please start a new thread on your startup issues. Otherwise, users will get lost on what is being discussed on this thread.
I have never heard of a inline check valve connected on either side of the heater hoses on the durango. At least the 1st gen I have not seen one. Right now, I like to figure out a way to bypass the heater core all together when not needed (summer use) and then switch it back (winter use) without having to manually go under the hood and swap hoses, etc....
Lets stay on track on your overheating issue. Please start a new thread on your startup issues. Otherwise, users will get lost on what is being discussed on this thread.
I have never heard of a inline check valve connected on either side of the heater hoses on the durango. At least the 1st gen I have not seen one. Right now, I like to figure out a way to bypass the heater core all together when not needed (summer use) and then switch it back (winter use) without having to manually go under the hood and swap hoses, etc....
#10