CV Shaft
#21
well i use my D for a daily driver and going on vacations. right now it has about 125+. I was thinking about replacing the CV completly but the guy at AZ said this would work just as well and for cheaper.....how would you go about getting custom cv axles??
thanks Hydra for the info once again. I bought the snap on boot but havent used it. I haven't had the time. (lame excuse i know).
thanks Hydra for the info once again. I bought the snap on boot but havent used it. I haven't had the time. (lame excuse i know).
#24
Snapping, popping and vibration. Please HELP '02 Durango R/T
Hey All,
I have a 2002 Durango R/T and have been experiencing some concerning problems this winter. From the left front, I hear a popping, and snapping sound, and recently there has been vibration along with it, felt through the steering wheel and rest of the vehicle. I only feel the vibration when I press the accelerator. I hear the snapping sound when I press the accelerator, but also when coasting to a stop. I've done a visual inspection of the front axles and both boots look free of damage. From what I can see, everything looks normal, but clearly I'm missing something!! Do I have a driveline problem?
Please HELP!!
I have a 2002 Durango R/T and have been experiencing some concerning problems this winter. From the left front, I hear a popping, and snapping sound, and recently there has been vibration along with it, felt through the steering wheel and rest of the vehicle. I only feel the vibration when I press the accelerator. I hear the snapping sound when I press the accelerator, but also when coasting to a stop. I've done a visual inspection of the front axles and both boots look free of damage. From what I can see, everything looks normal, but clearly I'm missing something!! Do I have a driveline problem?
Please HELP!!
#26
Upper and lower ball joints were replaced recently. I haven't checked the u-joint. If the CV is bad, could that also cause the vibration or is that likely something else?
I had a friend suggest I check drive line issues by putting t-case in 4 low. Then jack up one front tire and rotating wheel to see if I can pinpoint any slack.
I had a friend suggest I check drive line issues by putting t-case in 4 low. Then jack up one front tire and rotating wheel to see if I can pinpoint any slack.
#27
Check the U-joints.....Mike
no......Just the normal tear down if you have the tools. Your alignment should be fine if your just doing the CV. Now if you include ball joints or tie rod ends or inners then you should for sure.
no......Just the normal tear down if you have the tools. Your alignment should be fine if your just doing the CV. Now if you include ball joints or tie rod ends or inners then you should for sure.
#28
I posted on here earlier complaining of vibration and noise coming from the front drivers side of my 2002 R/T. It was suggested I check the CV and U joints. I started with the CV since it seemed a cheap easy fix. I paid $69 for a new half shaft (quoted $350 from the mechanic to fix).
Replaced shaft by first removing upper ball joint and steering arm linkage and with a few movements of the floor jack, and some beating and prying, was able to pull out old shaft and swap in new. Took my unexperienced self and brother about 2 hours.
That solved some of the popping/clicking. Now on to the U joint on the driveshaft. With another late trip Sunday to the parts store, I picked up a u joint for $13.50, a 12 pack of brew and began another round of beating, bolt removal and floor jacking. 2 hours later I had the new u joint in and the shaft back in.
However - when I had the drive shaft out, I realized my main problem - the protective boot/seal cv end was shredded. The joint has a lot of play in it and is the obvious problem. Driving it the next day, 90% of the clicking is gone and all vibration.
I realize I need a new drive shaft since the o.e.m is not serviceable where it comes out of the transfer case.
On this forum, someone talks about a double u joint drive shaft. From a maintenance standpoint, this seems the logical and cheaper choice. I also read that they don't work well with AWD, causing vibration. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Replaced shaft by first removing upper ball joint and steering arm linkage and with a few movements of the floor jack, and some beating and prying, was able to pull out old shaft and swap in new. Took my unexperienced self and brother about 2 hours.
That solved some of the popping/clicking. Now on to the U joint on the driveshaft. With another late trip Sunday to the parts store, I picked up a u joint for $13.50, a 12 pack of brew and began another round of beating, bolt removal and floor jacking. 2 hours later I had the new u joint in and the shaft back in.
However - when I had the drive shaft out, I realized my main problem - the protective boot/seal cv end was shredded. The joint has a lot of play in it and is the obvious problem. Driving it the next day, 90% of the clicking is gone and all vibration.
I realize I need a new drive shaft since the o.e.m is not serviceable where it comes out of the transfer case.
On this forum, someone talks about a double u joint drive shaft. From a maintenance standpoint, this seems the logical and cheaper choice. I also read that they don't work well with AWD, causing vibration. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
#29
Quick update on my last post.
Just called a local driveline repair center about driveshaft replacement. I was told the double u joint shaft doesn't agree with AWD on my r/t. They'll rebuild and balance the shaft for $215 and have it back in one day - good as new.
Good news since replacement re-manufactured shafts are at the very least 250.
Hopefully my woes will be over.
Just called a local driveline repair center about driveshaft replacement. I was told the double u joint shaft doesn't agree with AWD on my r/t. They'll rebuild and balance the shaft for $215 and have it back in one day - good as new.
Good news since replacement re-manufactured shafts are at the very least 250.
Hopefully my woes will be over.