33/1050/15's installed, impressions.
Dlander,
Its all good. I understand. Not dissing at all.
Off road SUVs have their place. Looks like a great time. I just cringe at putting a dent in the sheet metal. I personally have my ATVs for my offroad fix so I can keep the D cherry. Took 3rd place at the All-Chrysler Nationals in 2009 within the Durango division with her at 209,000 miles!
Drive on!
IndyD
P.S. I am politically conservative too. LOL
Its all good. I understand. Not dissing at all.
Off road SUVs have their place. Looks like a great time. I just cringe at putting a dent in the sheet metal. I personally have my ATVs for my offroad fix so I can keep the D cherry. Took 3rd place at the All-Chrysler Nationals in 2009 within the Durango division with her at 209,000 miles!
Drive on!
IndyD
P.S. I am politically conservative too. LOL
Update: now with T/S shackle lift.
Allow me to set the stage. again truck is straddling a ditch, same ditch, drivers front & pass rear are not touching, either tire can be spun by hand. in other words the suspension is maxed out.
Now up a few inches, *******ly (why is this editing V*I*R*T*U*A*L*Y?) no rubbing. on the street @ full lock in reverse it will rub lightly on the front frame horn. that's it no major contact what so ever.
Off road couple of minor rubs only at full lock. the heavy contact point at the rear of the pass ft wheel well liner is nothing more than a slight rub now.
I still intend to lower the compression bumpstops, rear by two inches. only to keep the springs from counter flexing at max compression & loosing arch, there has been no rear contact at any point of this adventure.
front compression bump I'm just going to replace with a same size polly unit, the extra stiffness of the polly stop will end any contact at the rear of the fender.
I also feel I should point out that although the stock shocks will work, they are too short. that is why you have to pull the springs down to the shackles, the shocks are acting as drop stops. when I change out the shocks I will also post up what if any relocation of the rear brake line is necessary.
First pic, just sitting level, may bring the front up more but I want to throw a load in the rear & see how it sits first.

Overview shot, straddling ditch.

close up of ft pass side wheel well, heaviest contact point before.

You can see how it will touch but it does not make major contact, bump stop is fully compressed, polly stop will open this gap.
only visible rub mark pass side.

Rub mark on the tire itself.

drivers side only visible rub mark

clearance to bumper, tightest point. this will go away when I get the winch mount bumper.
before I adjusted the t-bars & installed the shackles I loosend all the suspension bushings & then retorqued them after at the new height. I haven't heard this point made in reference to lifting via this method but would like to point out it is important so the bushings are not under constant stress with the new angles.
will update again when I get to putting in the new shocks & compression stops.
Allow me to set the stage. again truck is straddling a ditch, same ditch, drivers front & pass rear are not touching, either tire can be spun by hand. in other words the suspension is maxed out.
Now up a few inches, *******ly (why is this editing V*I*R*T*U*A*L*Y?) no rubbing. on the street @ full lock in reverse it will rub lightly on the front frame horn. that's it no major contact what so ever.
Off road couple of minor rubs only at full lock. the heavy contact point at the rear of the pass ft wheel well liner is nothing more than a slight rub now.
I still intend to lower the compression bumpstops, rear by two inches. only to keep the springs from counter flexing at max compression & loosing arch, there has been no rear contact at any point of this adventure.
front compression bump I'm just going to replace with a same size polly unit, the extra stiffness of the polly stop will end any contact at the rear of the fender.
I also feel I should point out that although the stock shocks will work, they are too short. that is why you have to pull the springs down to the shackles, the shocks are acting as drop stops. when I change out the shocks I will also post up what if any relocation of the rear brake line is necessary.
First pic, just sitting level, may bring the front up more but I want to throw a load in the rear & see how it sits first.

Overview shot, straddling ditch.

close up of ft pass side wheel well, heaviest contact point before.

You can see how it will touch but it does not make major contact, bump stop is fully compressed, polly stop will open this gap.
only visible rub mark pass side.

Rub mark on the tire itself.

drivers side only visible rub mark

clearance to bumper, tightest point. this will go away when I get the winch mount bumper.
before I adjusted the t-bars & installed the shackles I loosend all the suspension bushings & then retorqued them after at the new height. I haven't heard this point made in reference to lifting via this method but would like to point out it is important so the bushings are not under constant stress with the new angles.
will update again when I get to putting in the new shocks & compression stops.
Nice one.
I've just started a new thread for 35" tyres.
What made you stop at 33s?
Would you consider 35s
I had narrower than average 33/11.50/15 TSL Thornbirds on a 4 door sidekick 12 years ago so want to go bigger on a Durango.
Joe
I've just started a new thread for 35" tyres.
What made you stop at 33s?
Would you consider 35s
I had narrower than average 33/11.50/15 TSL Thornbirds on a 4 door sidekick 12 years ago so want to go bigger on a Durango.
Joe
yup any bigger and you need obnoxious amounts of lift to make them fit, and then there is the added stress on the front end from bigger tires ect ect









