Dang that would be the third expansion valve for this car. Last time it was an absolute bear getting that sucker out. I'd hate to have to do it again but if that is what is regulating the pressure between the two sides then that might be the issue. I will exhaust all my other options first. I like yourr idea of insulating the suction line.

 

NOOOOO!! what ever you do, DO NOT buy a Toyota/ or a Honduh/or a Kia or Hyundai. If you must sell what you have now for what ever reason but another Dodge, or a GM or a Ford, PLEASE!!! I for one am growing ever tired of these imported POS' polluting our roads! send these other cars back where they came from.... after they have been crushed.

 

i have 2001 Dodge 2500 with cummings. i am getting very little to no air/ac blowing out vents. AC comes out defroster. found one bad vacuum line on firewall. Replaced it. Blower is working. Help

 

If the diverter door is vacuum operated on the Ram I'd say you've still got a vacuum issue somewhere.

 

Thanks. when defroster is turned on i hear what may be the diverter close when defroster is turned off, like what ever opens and closes it may be broken. Never heard that sound before. I am assuming you have to remove dashboard to get to diverter door? I removed dashboard to change heater core about three months ago, was a pain. where is the diverter door? there is a door controlled by an actuator behind glove box, that is opening and closing when AC is turned on so its not that.

 

That's probably the recirculation door. You'd have to ask in the Ram section do specifics on those doors.

 

Morning Durango Fam,
I checked the AC thread and saw the note that I pasted below. I think my issue is #2 but I need more insight. The compressor will click on when I touch the wire connection harness that rest right under the top hotwater hose. It seems like a short because it will click on and off as you move the harness around. How do I repair that? Thx!

RealEstateGuy


Compressor Not Working
1. Broken belt 2. Broken clutch wire or no 12v power 3. Broken compressor piston 4. Bad thermostat 5. Bad clutch coil 6. Low Refrigerant - low pressure switch has cut off clutch power

Repair
1. Replace belt 2. Repair wire or check for power 3. Replace compressor 4. Replace thermostat 5. Replace clutch coil 6. Add refrigerant

 

Cut out the bad section of wire and splice in a new one.

 

New to posting here but have been learning a lot for a couple weeks...but now I'm stumped. 2010 Ram 1500 SLT. The HVAC control head would not stay turned on and had the knocking sound behind the radio. Was advised there was a recall so took it to the dealership. Initially he said it hadn't been done but when I got the call he said he'd been wrong and it had been done and the HVAC control head needed to be replaced. $480. I replaced the control head and the bad actuator that was making the banging noise myself and was working fine for about a week but then it started blowing hot air with AC selected. Thinking the control head update might not have been done on the brand new one I bought I put the old one back on and it worked great! Until the next time I started the truck...full hot again. Pulled the battery cable off for twenty seconds, full cold again! Until the second time I started it, then full hot. No airflow issues, just full hot which I can reset by disconnecting the battery. Can't get the same results by pulling HVAC fuses, gotta pull the battery cables. Any ideas?

 

You'll have to post in the Ram section for help with that.