That Guy,
Thanks for the note. Do you have step by step directions for this? The mechanic is stating that he is not sure whether he has to replace the wire or the entire wiring harness for the truck. The compressor will kick on with a slight movement of the connection between the compressor and the power source. Let me know.

Thanks!

 

It's not really something that there's going to be step by step directions for. If you've never done any wiring before you'll probably want to get an automotive electrician to do it for you.

 

I have a 2002 dodge durango that I recently replaced the AC compressor in. I was trying to refill the refrigerant with a can of EZ Chill and ran into a problem. When the AC was on and fully blasting, the pressure guage on the EZ chill would read 0 while attached to the low side port. When I pressed the button on the EZ chill the guage would go up a little then quickly drop back to 0 and stay there. When switched the AC off but kept the air blasting, the pressure guage would jump up to 50 or so psi (depending on how much EZ Chill I had just tried to put in). The whole time the air does not get any colder. It appears the compressor clutch is engaging so I am not sure what would cause this problem. Please help!!

 

You need to have a vacuum pulled on the system and then fill it properly with a manifold gauge set. Those cans you buy at the store that only go onto the low side are pretty stupid honestly, to know what's going on in the system you need to monitor both the high and low sides.

 

+1 that_guy,

in order to get the proper refrigerant into it you need to pull a vacuum on the system first.

 

I have recently decided to get my AC back up and running after 7 years of going with out. My Evap Core was full of holes so I replaced it and the heater core. Had a shop Refill it with 134a and now it holds refrigerant. I have cold air... great right? Well after about 15-20 min in 90* weather the clutch disengages and I get luke warm humid air. I looked around the engine bay for problems and found that the e fan was not operating correctly. I replaced that and I figured "great look at me I fixed the problem" wrong again. Still after 15-20 min the clutch disengages. So I figure it was moisture in the system because I did not replace the drier when I did the core. I had a shop remove the refrigerant and replace the drier and they also said the expansion valve was not working correctly. They gladly replaced that for the tune of $250. I drove away and after 20 min the clutch disengages and DAMIT humid air again! I do not have a pressure test kit to do a thorough test, I'm assuming the shop I took it to had done that. Funny thing is on my drive home tonight the AC ran for 2 hrs once the outside air temp dropped below 85*. Thought or ideas would be appreciated...

 

I have a problem with my ac
the fan of my condenser only works on low, I already change the 2 relays and still have the problem. also I disconnect the plug of my fan to see if it was receiving power and it was but only in low but when they have to change to hi the power going to the coneector goes away then after 1 or 2 min. powers came back and the fan start working but slow.
I hope somebody can help me with this problem

 

I'd check for power to the clutch to see if the system is actually disengaging it for some reason, or if it's unable to stay engaged.


You're going to need to post in the 2nd gen section to get an answer about that.

 

Well I picked up the truck from the shop that had done the previously mentioned work so that they could take another stab at it since they misdiagnosed it and I felt they owed me warranty work. Well they did exactly what I thought they would .... they said I needed a new compressor... sorry boys I'm a Helicopter mechanic and I know when you don't know what the problem is and your throwing parts at a problem to solve it... They did not charge me which is fine by me. The AC worked great all the way home from work this evening but the temps were around 80*. So I had seen on another forum somebody experiencing the same problem as I am to a T. They thought the compressor magnet was overheating or a relay overheating... that is where the thread ended. So my question is... has anybody replaced the clutch/magnet package with the compressor still installed? I know the relay is a 5 min swap.

 

The clutch electromagnet is what I was getting at too when I said the check power to the clutch.

Here are links to PDFs of the service manuals. The procedure should be in there. https://www.mediafire.com/?xu9h0gt9bdcn6 If I had more time I'd look it up, but I have to get ready for work.