Burning Smell From Hood???? Please help
#21
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Count on at least 2-3 days! When you get it back make sure you drive it home and let it cool off and that's it! Then drive it no more than 50 miles and cool. Then drive about 450 miles (so so) VERY easy. Then your good to go.
#22
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Was there ever any solution to this problem?
I find myself in a *very* similar situation!
I just purchased a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L V8 from a small dealer here on the far side of town. I've only owned the truck about a week, and yesterday I noticed a burning smell coming from under the hood. The smell is strongest from the drivers side of the engine compartment and I can't for the life of me see anything wrong.
I find myself in a *very* similar situation!
I just purchased a 2000 Dodge Durango SLT+ 5.9L V8 from a small dealer here on the far side of town. I've only owned the truck about a week, and yesterday I noticed a burning smell coming from under the hood. The smell is strongest from the drivers side of the engine compartment and I can't for the life of me see anything wrong.
#23
#25
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is there any noise coming from that side of the truck? most of the time when an injector code comes up like that its the wiring not that actually injector. if you go to an auto parts store and buy a set of noid lights you can plug them in to the injector connections they will light up and or pulse depending on style you buy. also should look and see if maybe the cap is broke on the #5 post. this would have a burning plactis smell because the coil ark is burning the inside of the cap. easiest way to find you loss of spark is to park in a dark area and spray a light mist of water over the plug wires. (water bottle not a hose) it normall will look like a cool blue and yellow light show. cylicder 5 is on the drivers side. but i would be checking all if possable.
good luck
good luck
#27
#29
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Yeah. As I said, I had just bought the truck from a shady little dealership, and it was booked in for service anyways. I was pretty sure nothing serious was wrong, simply due to the fact that, nothing exploded and the drive wasn't affected at all.
The first thing I did was an oil change, because when I bought the truck, the dipstick handle was busted off... And I couldn't even check the oil. So $20 later I had a new dipstick from the dealer. Oil change went smooth, truck runs VERY well.
Then I had a transmission fluid flush done by my mechanic with synthetic fluid, it was expensive, but the tranny fluid was quite dark.
I have maintenance records for the first 100,000 km's, but between 100-150Km's there's no records whatsoever. So I figured it was due diligence to get this stuff looked at.
And while they were doing the tranny flush, I had them put on a new belt, it was one of the only things noticed on the pre-purchase inspection I had them do. It was cracked and needed replacement anyways.
The first thing I did was an oil change, because when I bought the truck, the dipstick handle was busted off... And I couldn't even check the oil. So $20 later I had a new dipstick from the dealer. Oil change went smooth, truck runs VERY well.
Then I had a transmission fluid flush done by my mechanic with synthetic fluid, it was expensive, but the tranny fluid was quite dark.
I have maintenance records for the first 100,000 km's, but between 100-150Km's there's no records whatsoever. So I figured it was due diligence to get this stuff looked at.
And while they were doing the tranny flush, I had them put on a new belt, it was one of the only things noticed on the pre-purchase inspection I had them do. It was cracked and needed replacement anyways.
#30
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the transmission flush causes 10000 times more problems by forcing all the contaminants thru the filters under pressure and then it is back into the system, a fluid/filter change is the best bet, if the fluid is really bad a transmission PURGE is acceptable to change all the fluid, but a FLUSH is a HUGE NO NO