Help
Place a bag of ice (with a few bags over it) over the PCM, tie it down, and go for a drive. If the truck runs fine replace the PCM.
If it continues replace the Pre-Cat 02 sensor and get one from the dealer.
If it continues replace the Pre-Cat 02 sensor and get one from the dealer.
Yes the ice bags are a very good idea, I will try that. But nobody has talked about the pickup coil in the distributer? I was thinking that if it was overheating and breaking down would this not be one of the symptoms?
I did find a TSB,but i don't know if this the cause of your problem.I would recommend to try what hydrashocker had said first.
SUBJECT: Engine Cranks But Does Not Start Or Starts And Stalls
DATE: Sept. 8, 2000
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A VEHICLE THEFT ALARM (VTA) SYSTEM (SALES CODE LSA).
DISCUSSION:
Part of "No Start" diagnosis on vehicles equipped with VTSS should include a verification check of the power supply to the Central Timer Module (CTM). The CTM provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an "OK To Start" message via the CCD bus. If the message is not received by the PCM, the PCM will not allow the engine to start. Initially, the engine may start and stall but will eventually not start at all. Most CTMs are supplied battery voltage through the power door lock fuse. An inspection of the fuse should be one of the initial diagnostic checks performed. If the fuse is operational, a verification check of the communication system from the CTM can be performed using the DRBIII®. Attempt to communicate to the CTM. If the CTM does not respond to the DRBIII®, the DRBIII® will identify a "No Response From Central Timer Module" message. A "No Response From Central Timer Module" message may indicate that the CTM is not powered up. Please refer to the "Communication" section of the appropriate Body Diagnostic Procedures Manual to assist in "No Start" diagnosis due to communication problems from the CTM. In addition, the "Vehicle Theft/Security" section will aid in the diagnosis of "No Start" issues involving the VTSS system.
SUBJECT: Engine Cranks But Does Not Start Or Starts And Stalls
DATE: Sept. 8, 2000
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A VEHICLE THEFT ALARM (VTA) SYSTEM (SALES CODE LSA).
DISCUSSION:
Part of "No Start" diagnosis on vehicles equipped with VTSS should include a verification check of the power supply to the Central Timer Module (CTM). The CTM provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an "OK To Start" message via the CCD bus. If the message is not received by the PCM, the PCM will not allow the engine to start. Initially, the engine may start and stall but will eventually not start at all. Most CTMs are supplied battery voltage through the power door lock fuse. An inspection of the fuse should be one of the initial diagnostic checks performed. If the fuse is operational, a verification check of the communication system from the CTM can be performed using the DRBIII®. Attempt to communicate to the CTM. If the CTM does not respond to the DRBIII®, the DRBIII® will identify a "No Response From Central Timer Module" message. A "No Response From Central Timer Module" message may indicate that the CTM is not powered up. Please refer to the "Communication" section of the appropriate Body Diagnostic Procedures Manual to assist in "No Start" diagnosis due to communication problems from the CTM. In addition, the "Vehicle Theft/Security" section will aid in the diagnosis of "No Start" issues involving the VTSS system.
Check your relays. Especialy ones that control obvious things that would cause the motor to shut down. If they are bad and they get overly hot..engine heat plus relay problem heat.. they will somtimes stop functioning right. Are you talking about it stalls while driving after it warms up or you can leave it sit there and idle and eventualy it will just pucker out? Or both. Are you sure the cks didnt get boogered up when installing it? As for the o2 sensor comment I doubt that would be it but a quick way to find out is unplug it. Youll get a mil but you'll find out fast that its not the o2 since the vehicle runs on open loop presets. Also check the vacuum hose for the map sensor if your motor has one attached which I think they do...I know the 4.7 won't but anyway. I worked on a pontiac sunfire that, when running warm or hot, had a bad vacuume hose that would colapse. If it was cold it was fine and as soon as the temp rose it would seal off the map sensor and eventualy the motor would die. GL
Ya know,
we could come up with stuff all day long but did you try #1, the ice method and what was the result?








