I did turn the engine 2 revolutions and everything looked to match back up.
I didn't remove the injectors from the fuel rail, just from the head. I replaced to orings on the bottom of the injectors. I will check for that vac. leak and reset the computer and let you guys know what i find.

 

You also may want to recheck the torque on the sprocket on the idler too.

 

well no luck with resetting the computer...starts hard and runs real rough still. I am thinking i must have the timing off somehow. Any other ideas before i open it back up?

 

You said that you had the head(s) surfaced, I'll assume that the cam, lifters, rockers, etc. were removed? Is it possible that something got reassembled wrong? I purchased a full replacement head for mine, so the cam & rockers were already installed, but is it possible that the rockers are too tight (or loose?) changing the valve opening? Not having pulled the valves myself, I could be all wrong here.

All in all it sounds timing related to me, especially if nothing else was changed during the rebuild. When I did mine I had two leaking injectors and the pulled off vacuum line mentioned earlier and it still started OK. Ran a little rough & very high idle, but it kept running.

I just re-read your post and saw that you replaced the cam sensor. The engine ran OK for the first 30 seconds before you shut it off, then on restart the cam sensor was bad? Now that it's replaced, it runs rough? Is it possible that it's still a sensor related problem? That would definately mess with the timing / spark and cause a miss....

Does the computer throw any codes at all?

Sorry to say but it may be time to pull it apart again.

 

That's what is odd, it doesn't throw any codes....or at least the CEL doesn't come on. Last night after i reset the computer it started hard and stayed running, poorly for 2 minutes or so, then eventually died, but even then no codes.

I suppose I won't get any codes if the timing is off?

 

Do you have a code scanner? I think that a code can show as "pending" before the CEL comes on. If it's running that poorly I would think that you'd still get some code to come up. (i.e. misfire detected, idle to high, etc.)

Did it start and run OK before you changed out the cam sensor? What made you determine that the sensor was bad to start with?

Bob

 

Keep in mind that not all codes will turn the CEL on, only those that affect emissions. Also, some must fail a certain number of times before they turn on the MIL. The only true way to know is with a scan tool.

 

I don't have a scan tool - i borrowed a MAC one but it would only talk the the transmission not the ECM...odd but i don't know a lot about the scan tools.

When I first started the vehicle it ran a bit rough, like it had just been taken apart…everything dry…at least in my mind I was passing it off that way then it just shut off. When I tried to start it I couldn’t get it to run, I remembered when I took it apart I couldn’t get the CAM sensor disconnected from the harness, so I just remove the whole thing. So I messed with the connection and it started…again ran poorly put started. At that time I just figured replace the sensor for $20 and see what happens. After the sensor was replaced it started up right away and sounded “ok” for about 20 seconds. (I had the battery cable off and charged the battery while I went to the auto store to get the sensor). However, subsequent restarts are difficult and the thing hardly idles, and won't stay running.

 

Re-install the old cam sensor just for the hell of it and reset.

 

how old is the battery???? i the battery was dead and you had to recharge it i would say your battery is shot, try a new one and see what happens.