2000 4.7 secondary timing tensioner
I'm an idiot...I've read the service manual section a few times and it doesn't make sense to me. I pin the tensioner install it, then remove the pin and let the oil pressure tension the chain?? Won't this run the risk of the chains jumping because of too much slack?
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This project started with driver head gasket leaking, so I removed the heads had a machine shop mill them and replaced all gaskets with new felpro ones. Simple enough in theory…. I got everything back together last night and tried to start the Durango…started and ran okay for about 30 seconds and just shut off. Wouldn’t restart after that, replaced the CAM sensor and restarted ran ok, and now starts but runs real rough barley idles. When I put everything back together (used a service manual for help) all the timing chains lines up with the original marks I made before disassemble. All the wires where marked before removal, so I am confident that I have that back together properly. The V8 marks on both sprockets where at the 12’oclock…so I don’t think it is timing related… No backfire or anything like that. Any ideas, any way to check if all the injectors are operating properly or if the plugs are firing properly? Can you check the timing on this engine somehow…I am used to old stuff..
Not that I know of unless you use a DRB-II.
Reset the PCM and try again: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
I would sugest that the PCM is off time to the motor because of the replaced sensor. Did you throw any CEL's?
Reset the PCM and try again: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ine-light.html
To reset your engine codes:
Remove the negative terminal of your battery (10mm wrench).
Remove the negative terminal of your battery (10mm wrench).
Turn your ignition key to START and hold it there for about 15 seconds.
Turn your ignition key to OFF and remove it.
Connect the negative terminal of your battery.
Start but do not hit the throttle. Idle for about 10/15 seconds then turn off.
Restart the truck and drive as usual. It will take at least 12 starts and 48 miles to fully retune the computer. Hard Codes leave a shaddow for 40 full cold starts.
Turn your ignition key to OFF and remove it.
Connect the negative terminal of your battery.
Start but do not hit the throttle. Idle for about 10/15 seconds then turn off.
Restart the truck and drive as usual. It will take at least 12 starts and 48 miles to fully retune the computer. Hard Codes leave a shaddow for 40 full cold starts.
I had similar problems after my cracked head rebuild a few months ago. A couple more things to check:
Vacuum hose that runs from the far back of the intake plenun is REALLY easy to disturb when you're putting the intake back on. On my 2003 4.7 it's a 3/4" line that slips onto a short tube and then snaked between the firewall and the rear of the engine. A vacuum leak that big causes all sorts of havoc.
Triple check that ALL of your injectors went back into place properly and the o-rings weren't damaged when you removed them. All of my lowers came out with no problem, but some of the uppers got stuck in the fuel rail and wouldnt seat back onto the injector. I ended up removing all of the o-rings and replaced them, probably not a bad idea anyways. To install them I put them on the injectors, but a SMALL amount of grease on the orings and then set the rail above them, slowly pushing it down then installing the 4 bolts, and finally the retainer clips.
When you put the timing chains back on did you rotate the engine by hand two complete rev's and make sure the timing marks ended up the same? There's also some silver colored links on the chains that should appear in certain positions as you rotate them, although the Hayes manual outlines this pretty well. I can scan / email the section if need be.
I also ended up breaking the power steering pressure sensor on mine when I pushed the pump to the side & never noticed it, but this caused my motor to stay at a high rough idel. BTW, no codes were thrown with this sensor either.
Mine took a couple of days to smoothen out, and then my gas mileage improved after the first 100 miles of so. Strangely enough the tranny seemed to shift funny at first and kept kicking down a gear when lightly accelerating, but that took care of itself also.
Hope this helps.
Bob
Bob
Vacuum hose that runs from the far back of the intake plenun is REALLY easy to disturb when you're putting the intake back on. On my 2003 4.7 it's a 3/4" line that slips onto a short tube and then snaked between the firewall and the rear of the engine. A vacuum leak that big causes all sorts of havoc.
Triple check that ALL of your injectors went back into place properly and the o-rings weren't damaged when you removed them. All of my lowers came out with no problem, but some of the uppers got stuck in the fuel rail and wouldnt seat back onto the injector. I ended up removing all of the o-rings and replaced them, probably not a bad idea anyways. To install them I put them on the injectors, but a SMALL amount of grease on the orings and then set the rail above them, slowly pushing it down then installing the 4 bolts, and finally the retainer clips.
When you put the timing chains back on did you rotate the engine by hand two complete rev's and make sure the timing marks ended up the same? There's also some silver colored links on the chains that should appear in certain positions as you rotate them, although the Hayes manual outlines this pretty well. I can scan / email the section if need be.
I also ended up breaking the power steering pressure sensor on mine when I pushed the pump to the side & never noticed it, but this caused my motor to stay at a high rough idel. BTW, no codes were thrown with this sensor either.
Mine took a couple of days to smoothen out, and then my gas mileage improved after the first 100 miles of so. Strangely enough the tranny seemed to shift funny at first and kept kicking down a gear when lightly accelerating, but that took care of itself also.
Hope this helps.
Bob
Bob







