no spark wont start
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no spark wont start
howdy all
new member here with a 98 durango, (also have a 96 ram and a 65 coronet) with 190k miles. i swaped in a new waterpump the other day and on the test drive it went about a mile and just died. i've owned it for about 10 years and never had any problems at all. its been a real good truck but i've been really scratching my head for the last few weeks on this one. all fuses are good, relays are good too. there is continuity from the asd to the coil and from the coil to the pcm. turn the key on and get power to the green/orange wire at the coil for about 5 seconds and then the test light shuts off. i noticed that it shut off about the time the fuel pump shuts off too so i pulled the pump fuse. without the fuel pump the test light stays on. i know the asd relay is working, i tested both sides of it, and it also clicks when the key it turned on. i tested the cam sensor, crank sensor and temp sensor too. i also put the noid light on an injector and have a signal there too. i thought it would be a wire or connection i knocked loose when replacing the water pump but there isnt much in that area to mess up. not sure if the 2 are related. im thinking it has to be something simple that i am missing but i just cant figure it out and i dont want to just start throwing parts at it. anyone here have any ideas? i would appreciate any help i can get.
thanks in advance.
chris
new member here with a 98 durango, (also have a 96 ram and a 65 coronet) with 190k miles. i swaped in a new waterpump the other day and on the test drive it went about a mile and just died. i've owned it for about 10 years and never had any problems at all. its been a real good truck but i've been really scratching my head for the last few weeks on this one. all fuses are good, relays are good too. there is continuity from the asd to the coil and from the coil to the pcm. turn the key on and get power to the green/orange wire at the coil for about 5 seconds and then the test light shuts off. i noticed that it shut off about the time the fuel pump shuts off too so i pulled the pump fuse. without the fuel pump the test light stays on. i know the asd relay is working, i tested both sides of it, and it also clicks when the key it turned on. i tested the cam sensor, crank sensor and temp sensor too. i also put the noid light on an injector and have a signal there too. i thought it would be a wire or connection i knocked loose when replacing the water pump but there isnt much in that area to mess up. not sure if the 2 are related. im thinking it has to be something simple that i am missing but i just cant figure it out and i dont want to just start throwing parts at it. anyone here have any ideas? i would appreciate any help i can get.
thanks in advance.
chris
I would make sure the distributor is sending current to your plugs. It could be it got knocked or something POSSIBLY. That's where I would start since you said all relays are fine.
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just a follow up. got through all the electrical tests i could find, new cam sensor, new crank sensor and new coil. then i figured out that the batt in my multimeter was dying. take all those tests and throw them away. just lovely. lol
so after all this i noticed that it seemed like it almost wanted to start, just a bit. replaced the cap and rotor (probably the only parts that needed replacement lol), checked all the plugs, they were wet and sparking. still trying to start. tried a bit of starting fluid and it tried to start a bit more. rechecked all the connections, and made sure the plug wires were in the right places (again) then just held the pedal to the floor and turned it over for a minute or so. almost started. let the starter cool off and tried it again. after about 15 seconds of cranking it coughed, stumbled and sputtered for about 30 seconds then smoothed out and ran. now it starts and runs just like its supposed to.
since i have no idea of the accuracy of any of my test readings, and since i had to work the starter real hard to get it to start the first time, i have absolutely no idea what i fixed or when it will happen again.
so $200 later, the moral of the story is to keep a fresh battery in your multimeter. oh, and my test light wasnt working all the time either. just a bit of corrosion on the bulb contacts. dam, sometimes i think the tool fairy should come and confiscate all my tools just for being stupid lol
so after all this i noticed that it seemed like it almost wanted to start, just a bit. replaced the cap and rotor (probably the only parts that needed replacement lol), checked all the plugs, they were wet and sparking. still trying to start. tried a bit of starting fluid and it tried to start a bit more. rechecked all the connections, and made sure the plug wires were in the right places (again) then just held the pedal to the floor and turned it over for a minute or so. almost started. let the starter cool off and tried it again. after about 15 seconds of cranking it coughed, stumbled and sputtered for about 30 seconds then smoothed out and ran. now it starts and runs just like its supposed to.
since i have no idea of the accuracy of any of my test readings, and since i had to work the starter real hard to get it to start the first time, i have absolutely no idea what i fixed or when it will happen again.
so $200 later, the moral of the story is to keep a fresh battery in your multimeter. oh, and my test light wasnt working all the time either. just a bit of corrosion on the bulb contacts. dam, sometimes i think the tool fairy should come and confiscate all my tools just for being stupid lol
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: NE Iowa
Almost sounds like there could have been some water in the gas line that took some cranking to work through.
I've had a very similar scenario happen after using gas out of a gas can that was bad (same gas put into my lawn mower as a test caused it to not run also).
I've had a very similar scenario happen after using gas out of a gas can that was bad (same gas put into my lawn mower as a test caused it to not run also).
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Riverton, UT
just a follow up. got through all the electrical tests i could find, new cam sensor, new crank sensor and new coil. then i figured out that the batt in my multimeter was dying. take all those tests and throw them away. just lovely. lol
so after all this i noticed that it seemed like it almost wanted to start, just a bit. replaced the cap and rotor (probably the only parts that needed replacement lol), checked all the plugs, they were wet and sparking. still trying to start. tried a bit of starting fluid and it tried to start a bit more. rechecked all the connections, and made sure the plug wires were in the right places (again) then just held the pedal to the floor and turned it over for a minute or so. almost started. let the starter cool off and tried it again. after about 15 seconds of cranking it coughed, stumbled and sputtered for about 30 seconds then smoothed out and ran. now it starts and runs just like its supposed to.
since i have no idea of the accuracy of any of my test readings, and since i had to work the starter real hard to get it to start the first time, i have absolutely no idea what i fixed or when it will happen again.
so $200 later, the moral of the story is to keep a fresh battery in your multimeter. oh, and my test light wasnt working all the time either. just a bit of corrosion on the bulb contacts. dam, sometimes i think the tool fairy should come and confiscate all my tools just for being stupid lol
so after all this i noticed that it seemed like it almost wanted to start, just a bit. replaced the cap and rotor (probably the only parts that needed replacement lol), checked all the plugs, they were wet and sparking. still trying to start. tried a bit of starting fluid and it tried to start a bit more. rechecked all the connections, and made sure the plug wires were in the right places (again) then just held the pedal to the floor and turned it over for a minute or so. almost started. let the starter cool off and tried it again. after about 15 seconds of cranking it coughed, stumbled and sputtered for about 30 seconds then smoothed out and ran. now it starts and runs just like its supposed to.
since i have no idea of the accuracy of any of my test readings, and since i had to work the starter real hard to get it to start the first time, i have absolutely no idea what i fixed or when it will happen again.
so $200 later, the moral of the story is to keep a fresh battery in your multimeter. oh, and my test light wasnt working all the time either. just a bit of corrosion on the bulb contacts. dam, sometimes i think the tool fairy should come and confiscate all my tools just for being stupid lol
Anyway, it sounds like for some reason the PCM wasn't picking up all the sensors and it finally made it's adjustments to time the motor. You could try to index the Distributor, however it's up to you. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...er-please.html
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yep im laughing too. over the years i've learned not to go to the parts store until i know what to buy. i even try to test both the light and multimeter before i use them. proves us old dogs still have to learn new stuff lol.
i did index the dist. thought the timing chain might have skipped. would have been upset over that one, especially after doing a waterpump. put in a new chain and gears for the 100k mile service.
i did index the dist. thought the timing chain might have skipped. would have been upset over that one, especially after doing a waterpump. put in a new chain and gears for the 100k mile service.