Just trying to get some options or advice on what to do and what not to do as far any maintenance (i.e. differential, transfer case, transmission, engine, etc). Just want to know how far to go and when to stop on a 2001 Durango w/ 5.9L V8, AT, 4X4.

 

Do your regular full fluid change out including brake fluid.

Full tune up (Wires-cap-rotor-plugs) (Champion Copper only gapped at .040).

 

Also, do a tranny fluid exchange. Not a flush! Flush is bad, m'kay? Just drain and replace the fluid with mobil1 fully synth. Replace filter(s) as well.

 

Serpentine belt & tensioner. Radiator hoses. Depending on how long it's been since they've been replaced. If original, it's probably time to do them just for peace of mind, otherwise at least give them a good inspection.

You might consider replacing the vacuum lines. Vacuum hose is cheap and many weird problems trace back to a vacuum leak. These trucks are getting to the age where that cheap rubber hose can start getting pretty brittle.

Inspect the rubber portion of the brake lines. Again, we're getting to the age here where they can start getting weak and eventually give you a soft, spongy brake pedal.

Take a look at the CV boots on the front axle and make sure they're not leaking grease.

Take a good look at everything that holds fluid (engine, tranny, transfer case, differentials, radiator, etc...). Get under there with a nice bright light and look for any evidence of leaks. Take care of any you find.

May not be necessary to actually replace all of these things, but they're all things that go bad with age and it wouldn't hurt to take a good close look at them.

 

I have pretty much covered the transmission, plugs, cap, rotor, intake gasket, & a few odds & ends. My biggest concern is the oil that I am using in about a 2 weeks time. I do notice that after a couple of weeks that the oil pressure will drop when I come to a stop sign or stop light (this is when I've been driving for about 30-45 minutes). The that is when I find that it is a about a quart low, however, there is never any sign of blue smoke at start up or while driving. Once in awhile I get a P0402 or P0420 (I can't remember which one) code but it does state about the EVAP canister. I also have a "crappy" smell coming from the exhaust, which I originally thought was a head gasket going out, but was told by a mechanic that it would be smoking white all the time. This 2001 is in phenomenal condition, and I'd hate to see it go down, I have the money to rebuild the existing block i.e. bearings, rod bearings, rings, gaskets, etc. Is it worth it? I am thinking it is since it is paid for, it pulls my speed boat (main reason for buying it), and with 3rd row seating it hauls alot. If I do the rebuild the only thing I do not plan on doing is not having the block or heads machined.

 

If you're using oil, and can't find any sign of a leak, and it sounds like you've ruled out the head gasket, then you can probably get away with just a ring job. Although it seem silly to have someone dig in that deep and then not go ahead and do the rest of the overhaul that you're talking about...

Is it worth it? Most likely, but another thing you could consider is calling salvage yards and seeing what it would cost you to just replace the motor with one that has a quarter or half the miles. Compare the costs for each option, think about your comfort level with a salvage motor, then go from there....

Evan if you have no intention of using a salvage motor no matter what, knowing what it would cost could give you a good baseline dollar figure to evaluate the cost of the overhaul against....

 

Unless you're just ready for something new, I would compare the cost of a rebuild vs the cost of replacing the D with another vehicle in like condition, sounds like yours is in great condition.

 

0402 is exhaust gas recirculation in excess. You have a major leak in the evap system.
0420 is catalytic converter going south. Have it checked out.

 

Valve stem seals, timing chain. plenum gasket and de carb (clean up) on intake manifold. Valve seals can be done in the car with some special tools without removing the heads. Change all the fluids and keep to the owners manual. Mine has 160,000 and no sign of giving up.