pull to the right, a little shuddery on freeway
#1
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Over the past couple of weeks my D has started pulling more and more to the right (now it is enough that I can't pretend its the curve of the road) and seems to have picked up a shudder at freeway speeds.
I am going to take it in to a wheelworks or something tomorrow- but thought I would post here so I'd have a bit of a clue what sorts of things might cause this to "just happen".
I didn't hit anything at speed or go offroad or anything.
Thanks,
I am going to take it in to a wheelworks or something tomorrow- but thought I would post here so I'd have a bit of a clue what sorts of things might cause this to "just happen".
I didn't hit anything at speed or go offroad or anything.
Thanks,
#2
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Several possible causes, but given that both symptoms began to appear within a short time frame, my first guess would be that you have a tie rod end coming to the end of its life.
I haven't replaced one on a Durango, but I've done dozens on other vehicles. Parts are generally cheap, and it's a fairly quick and easy job, labor-wise. Just make sure to go have your alignment done afterwards if the shop doesn't do it themselves.
Could also be ball joints, or a wheel bearing, but in either of those cases I would think you'd be noticing additional symptoms than what you mentioned. Still can't rule them out, though.
I haven't replaced one on a Durango, but I've done dozens on other vehicles. Parts are generally cheap, and it's a fairly quick and easy job, labor-wise. Just make sure to go have your alignment done afterwards if the shop doesn't do it themselves.
Could also be ball joints, or a wheel bearing, but in either of those cases I would think you'd be noticing additional symptoms than what you mentioned. Still can't rule them out, though.
Last edited by coreybv; 02-24-2011 at 05:28 AM.
#4
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I had this - turned out to be a bubble in the tire where the radial belts separated. On mine, it pulled to the right - and so front left tire was bad. I had a shimmy on the steering at first that in a few days turned into a thumping sound in proportion with my speed.
I feared the worst - bearings, tie rods etc, but since I was about to change tires in any case, tried that first. It was the cheapest option at the time.
I feared the worst - bearings, tie rods etc, but since I was about to change tires in any case, tried that first. It was the cheapest option at the time.
#5
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MN- you are badass mate- the shudder was a bubble. The tires have a TON of tread so I didn't really check them. It is also a very large, but subtle bubble so it created a large shake, but wasn't easily noticeable...
So, Wheel Works trip update:
The web said they opened at 7- they changed the hours to 8 last week. So I had to sit out front for an hour. Then, even though I was the first in the queue, they didn't touch my car for 30 minutes. So, they fail on customer service IMO.
I signed up for an alignment, but they do all the brake and suspension check stuff before they do the work so they can upsell you. And boy did they try! They put together an 1800$ quote.
So, 2 new tires they want over 400 bucks. Seems pretty damn high, but I haven't had to buy tires in a long time so maybe they've... uh... doubled in price? Given how much tread I've got left on the other three I am going to look into a single used tire, but we will see. It also turns out that I don't have a spare so that will need to be fixed. Oh, if anyone cares- it was the front passenger tire with the lump. The guy said maybe it was run with too little air pressure for too long? The tires are dated about 6 years old.
The passenger rear brake is hosed. Pad down to metal, drum worn out of spec. Driver rear- even the pads are fine. They want another 400 for a rear drum service. Before I jump on the repair I'd like to get a sense of why one side would be worn so much more. Any suggestions on what to look into? They wanted another 100 bucks to flush the brakes.
Another 100 for the alignment, which I decided to wait on so I could figure out a comprehensive plan.
They put a 30 dollar oil change in the quote... uh thanks?
They had some fancy little test kit that says they should flush my power steering system for 50 bucks. I've never in my life heard of a problem caused by bad power steering fluid. Pretty sure most people would say that and pretty sure the test kit is how they sucker 50 bucks out of those people.
I haven't noticed any substantive oil leakage, burning smell, or anything else- but they also seemed to think I should give them 200 more to replace my valve cover gaskets.
The alignment issue probably comes down (in their assessment) to worn tie rods on both sides- which they want a little over 450 to replace.
Lastly, they felt that 20 dollars was a good price for a rear windshield wiper blade.
So, I need to figure out why I've worn one side of the rear brakes out without touching the other and fix that. Probably limp through a tire fix with a used tire or just bite the bullet for a full set. I can't tell you why I hesitate to just replace two- I don't think I've got a good reason.
I'd like to assess the tie rods myself, but not sure what to look for... Just shake em? Do I need the front wheels in the air?
I know for a fact I can get a rear wiper for 3 bucks so that puts a giant question mark on ANY of their pricing.
I welcome any suggestions.
Side note- took the wife's Escape to Jiffy Lube for an oil change (no garage or street to work on atm and its raining here anyway) and had a fantastic experience. Great service, they did other stuff, was quick, etc...
Thanks,
So, Wheel Works trip update:
The web said they opened at 7- they changed the hours to 8 last week. So I had to sit out front for an hour. Then, even though I was the first in the queue, they didn't touch my car for 30 minutes. So, they fail on customer service IMO.
I signed up for an alignment, but they do all the brake and suspension check stuff before they do the work so they can upsell you. And boy did they try! They put together an 1800$ quote.
So, 2 new tires they want over 400 bucks. Seems pretty damn high, but I haven't had to buy tires in a long time so maybe they've... uh... doubled in price? Given how much tread I've got left on the other three I am going to look into a single used tire, but we will see. It also turns out that I don't have a spare so that will need to be fixed. Oh, if anyone cares- it was the front passenger tire with the lump. The guy said maybe it was run with too little air pressure for too long? The tires are dated about 6 years old.
The passenger rear brake is hosed. Pad down to metal, drum worn out of spec. Driver rear- even the pads are fine. They want another 400 for a rear drum service. Before I jump on the repair I'd like to get a sense of why one side would be worn so much more. Any suggestions on what to look into? They wanted another 100 bucks to flush the brakes.
Another 100 for the alignment, which I decided to wait on so I could figure out a comprehensive plan.
They put a 30 dollar oil change in the quote... uh thanks?
They had some fancy little test kit that says they should flush my power steering system for 50 bucks. I've never in my life heard of a problem caused by bad power steering fluid. Pretty sure most people would say that and pretty sure the test kit is how they sucker 50 bucks out of those people.
I haven't noticed any substantive oil leakage, burning smell, or anything else- but they also seemed to think I should give them 200 more to replace my valve cover gaskets.
The alignment issue probably comes down (in their assessment) to worn tie rods on both sides- which they want a little over 450 to replace.
Lastly, they felt that 20 dollars was a good price for a rear windshield wiper blade.
So, I need to figure out why I've worn one side of the rear brakes out without touching the other and fix that. Probably limp through a tire fix with a used tire or just bite the bullet for a full set. I can't tell you why I hesitate to just replace two- I don't think I've got a good reason.
I'd like to assess the tie rods myself, but not sure what to look for... Just shake em? Do I need the front wheels in the air?
I know for a fact I can get a rear wiper for 3 bucks so that puts a giant question mark on ANY of their pricing.
I welcome any suggestions.
Side note- took the wife's Escape to Jiffy Lube for an oil change (no garage or street to work on atm and its raining here anyway) and had a fantastic experience. Great service, they did other stuff, was quick, etc...
Thanks,
#6
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Before I actually start my post commenting on your questions, just let me get this out there really quick:
DO NOT EVER GO BACK TO THAT PLACE!!!!
I'm not familiar with the name "Wheel Works", but I'm very familiar with the tactics. Around here it's Jiffy Lube and Midas that pulls crap like that. Up to the point of refusing to do the $75 job you asked for unless you agree to the $1800 upsell. Fscking scam artists, plain and simple. And then they do a **** job just to top it all off.
From what you described, I'd rather let Maaco put a paint job on a brand new Ferrari then let Wheel Works air my tires up.
Find yourself a little mom n' pop auto shop. Some place with a building that looks like it's about to cave in, and run by a guy with a big, grey beard and bad teeth. Not only will you get the job done better, you'll get better prices, and when THAT guy tries to "upsell" you, you can at least believe he honestly thinks it's the right way to go.
Stay away from the ****ing chains.
DO NOT EVER GO BACK TO THAT PLACE!!!!
I'm not familiar with the name "Wheel Works", but I'm very familiar with the tactics. Around here it's Jiffy Lube and Midas that pulls crap like that. Up to the point of refusing to do the $75 job you asked for unless you agree to the $1800 upsell. Fscking scam artists, plain and simple. And then they do a **** job just to top it all off.
From what you described, I'd rather let Maaco put a paint job on a brand new Ferrari then let Wheel Works air my tires up.
Find yourself a little mom n' pop auto shop. Some place with a building that looks like it's about to cave in, and run by a guy with a big, grey beard and bad teeth. Not only will you get the job done better, you'll get better prices, and when THAT guy tries to "upsell" you, you can at least believe he honestly thinks it's the right way to go.
Stay away from the ****ing chains.
Last edited by coreybv; 02-25-2011 at 04:40 AM.
#7
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+1 corey!
Jiffy Lube is crap, stay away from them sorry to say. Find a local oil stop by word of mouth.....Just my 2 cents!
Anyway, as for the power steering, yes the lubricant wares out and doesn't lubricate like it should and therefore wearing of parts commences. You should replace the fluid at about 60k intervals. As for their testing technique, well that leaves more questions......They use little test strips and dip it into the fluid. The test strips look like PH strips. Anyway, they work off detecting impurities in the oil/lubricant. I question their reliability and they are supposed to be universal, but with different fluids and type, I call Bull ****! Besides, I've played with em a few times and even brand new fluid came up "change"! http://www.motorvac.com/pdfs/TestPadsStrips.pdf
As for the reasons you tires are probably bulging on the passenger side is because that is the side they rub and hit accidentally against the curb when parking. A lot of the time you pull in you accidentally bump the curb/rub and this causes the belts to brake and a slight week spot starts. In retrospect of this topic, backing off a curb your usually fine, however pulling up on one is really bad because the force is pressing into the bands of the tire at about 3 to 1 then backing off. Also the older the tire from manufacturing date and sun breaks down the tires as well.
Anyway, get a used tire with the same tread design and about the same height and be done with it.
Tie rods are easy as cake! Raise the front end and wiggle the tire while watching the tie rod and tie rod end for play in the bearings. Replace if necessary.
Brake pads; not sure quite while one would wear faster than the other but if the other side isn't adjusting correctly or the shoes/pads have manufacturing errors that would also wear faster. Personally I wouldn't worry about it. Go get a new drum, new brake shoes, and new adjusters and install. I would turn the other side drum, shoes, and replace the adjusters as well. You can get the adjusters at NAPA, and I get my brakes at Auto Zone (DuraLast Gold series) but that's what I use.
Most older engines start to have a little weeping from the gaskets and seals after time, doesn't mean you need to jump on a repair train bound for China......LOL
As for the stroking that company is tryin to give you, I would never show my face in there again, say thanks but no thanks and RUN!!!
Sounds like they are looking for as much work as they can and bending people over 2 ways from Saturday!
Jiffy Lube is crap, stay away from them sorry to say. Find a local oil stop by word of mouth.....Just my 2 cents!
Anyway, as for the power steering, yes the lubricant wares out and doesn't lubricate like it should and therefore wearing of parts commences. You should replace the fluid at about 60k intervals. As for their testing technique, well that leaves more questions......They use little test strips and dip it into the fluid. The test strips look like PH strips. Anyway, they work off detecting impurities in the oil/lubricant. I question their reliability and they are supposed to be universal, but with different fluids and type, I call Bull ****! Besides, I've played with em a few times and even brand new fluid came up "change"! http://www.motorvac.com/pdfs/TestPadsStrips.pdf
As for the reasons you tires are probably bulging on the passenger side is because that is the side they rub and hit accidentally against the curb when parking. A lot of the time you pull in you accidentally bump the curb/rub and this causes the belts to brake and a slight week spot starts. In retrospect of this topic, backing off a curb your usually fine, however pulling up on one is really bad because the force is pressing into the bands of the tire at about 3 to 1 then backing off. Also the older the tire from manufacturing date and sun breaks down the tires as well.
Anyway, get a used tire with the same tread design and about the same height and be done with it.
Tie rods are easy as cake! Raise the front end and wiggle the tire while watching the tie rod and tie rod end for play in the bearings. Replace if necessary.
Brake pads; not sure quite while one would wear faster than the other but if the other side isn't adjusting correctly or the shoes/pads have manufacturing errors that would also wear faster. Personally I wouldn't worry about it. Go get a new drum, new brake shoes, and new adjusters and install. I would turn the other side drum, shoes, and replace the adjusters as well. You can get the adjusters at NAPA, and I get my brakes at Auto Zone (DuraLast Gold series) but that's what I use.
Most older engines start to have a little weeping from the gaskets and seals after time, doesn't mean you need to jump on a repair train bound for China......LOL
As for the stroking that company is tryin to give you, I would never show my face in there again, say thanks but no thanks and RUN!!!
Sounds like they are looking for as much work as they can and bending people over 2 ways from Saturday!
Last edited by hydrashocker; 02-25-2011 at 02:33 PM.
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#8
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Call the BBB and complain, Might just save some poor guy or gal a headache later on. My wife fell for a 20 dollar wiper deal once. I took a razor blade made a slight cut on the blade, tore it about 2 inches and the took it back and complained. I got refunded the 20 bucks and went to autozone and bought one for for like 8.99. My small revenge, atleast i felt better.
#9
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Update:
Found a used tire place that quoted me "about 40 dollars" for a 31x10.5r15. I was literally in and out in 15 minutes. Total bill was 46.xx$.
Not only did this cure the shudder- it also cured the pull to the right. I guess this makes perfect sense given that one front tire was round and the other was shaped like an egg. Boy do I feel dumb.
Now I will work to sort out the brakes.
Thanks for the input everybody!
Found a used tire place that quoted me "about 40 dollars" for a 31x10.5r15. I was literally in and out in 15 minutes. Total bill was 46.xx$.
Not only did this cure the shudder- it also cured the pull to the right. I guess this makes perfect sense given that one front tire was round and the other was shaped like an egg. Boy do I feel dumb.
Now I will work to sort out the brakes.
Thanks for the input everybody!