Help asap
#1
#2
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Should be alright to go without the driveshaft... im accually doing the same thing except with the rear driveshaft missing till i can fix it but, i would only use it for the "must make" trips just to stay on the safe side...
as for the cardone joint im not accually sure but, im sure someone who knows will chime in soon...
#3
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cardone joint is just a universal for anyone else wondering, just not a term used here in the US (i did some research), i believe the u-joints can be replaced on their own
and yes you can drive w/o the driveshaft in there short-term, but it should not be a permanent solution by any means
and yes you can drive w/o the driveshaft in there short-term, but it should not be a permanent solution by any means
Last edited by shrpshtr325; 03-26-2011 at 08:29 PM.
#4
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Well bad news cant replace just the joint have to get a new driveshaft
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Treid to drive it out last night and that too was a no go. With the full time 4wd the transfer case is putting the power to the path of least resistance. So the new one should be in on Tues. and then should be good to go.
![Icon Frown](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_frown.gif)
Treid to drive it out last night and that too was a no go. With the full time 4wd the transfer case is putting the power to the path of least resistance. So the new one should be in on Tues. and then should be good to go.
#5
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Don't put it in 4FT and put it in 2WD. Of course if you're referring to AWD full time, then that's a different story. For it sending power to the path of least resistance I've never heard of that... Usually it sends power equally and doesn't pick between the two.
You're saying by your theory, that if you had your front 2 wheels on ice and the back on solid ground, you would be stuck because it would be sending all the power to the front wheels because there's less resistance.
You're saying by your theory, that if you had your front 2 wheels on ice and the back on solid ground, you would be stuck because it would be sending all the power to the front wheels because there's less resistance.
#6
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you want 4wd pt or 2wd in order to drive the truck w/ one drive shaft out (if its the rear driveshaft that busted 4wdpt)
#7
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Yup just put it in 2WD or 4WD PT, whatever option you have. I drove without my rear driveshaft for a month because nobody had the ujoints for it. Taking out the front shaft and driving is not a problem,nothing will leak. Taking out the rear causes the t-case fluid to spill out the back because it uses a slip joint in there, you just have a yoke on your front.
I could have sworn it's possible to replace the ujoints on the front driveshaft, I bought some for my rear shaft and said I needed both the front and back ujoints, and they gave me one smaller one thinking I meant front driveshaft. This was at advance. Now don't even get me started on no replacement ujoints for the steering shaft and being $300 new haha.
I could have sworn it's possible to replace the ujoints on the front driveshaft, I bought some for my rear shaft and said I needed both the front and back ujoints, and they gave me one smaller one thinking I meant front driveshaft. This was at advance. Now don't even get me started on no replacement ujoints for the steering shaft and being $300 new haha.