Front Driveshaft rattle.
Hi all I have a 2003 SLT, and a terrible rattling noise from under the truck, I finally tracked it down to the front driveshaft. Replaced my front shocks, front ball joints, upper and lower, and right side cv half-shaft. Rattle was still there, and finally tracked it down to the front drive shaft. Crawled under the car and grabbed hold of the driveshaft and it is very loose. The front of the driveshaft looks good, but the rear of the drive shaft where it has a boot, and then connects into, well, I honestly don't know what the thing it connects into where the destroyed boot is, yeah I know nothing about cars, but i am learning, well the boot itself is pretty much destroyed and the back end of the driveshaft is very very loose. So, I have been looking online, and driveshafts aren't all that expensive. So how bad of a job would replacing the driveshaft be? My truck has a 2wd/4hi/4lo switch, as long as I leave it in 2wd, can I remove the driveshaft, and drive the truck in 2wd only? This would only be until I get a new driveshaft, not permanently. I am military and with the budget not passing, my family and I are trying to put some cash aside in case of a government shutdown, we still have to work and wait for pay until the budget passes, so I am not wanting to buy a new shaft and have it installed until all this is settled. So, to make a long story short........
Can I do a driveshaft myself? (remember I have little mechanical knowledge, but i am willing to learn)
Can I remove the driveshaft and just stay in 2wd for a few weeks?
Can I do a driveshaft myself? (remember I have little mechanical knowledge, but i am willing to learn)
Can I remove the driveshaft and just stay in 2wd for a few weeks?
You can but it's typically not a long term fix. It will ruin your vehicle if you run it like that for too long and make sure you are in 2WD. If you have an AWD or FT 4WD only you will not be able to do this supposedly because it will choose the "route of least resistance" and I've heard of an instance on here that it just wouldn't budge.
You can but it's typically not a long term fix. It will ruin your vehicle if you run it like that for too long and make sure you are in 2WD. If you have an AWD or FT 4WD only you will not be able to do this supposedly because it will choose the "route of least resistance" and I've heard of an instance on here that it just wouldn't budge.
I think i know who you are talking about. And if you dont beleive that person try it yourself.
I don't know on the newer caes if they have a slip joint splined connection into the transfer case for the front shaft like the rear shaft does, or if it just has a yoke like the older models do. If it has a yoke then there will be no damage done at all by removing the front driveshaft, just keep it in 2WD so you can actually get rolling (or 4WD PT for anyone with an AWD option). If your t-case has a slip joint then I'd personally cover the hole the best I can so no dirt gets in and no fluid gets out and wouldn't drive it unless I had to.
Now you can rebuild cv joints, but I'd never mess with that, just buy new, replacing u-joints on the other hand is deffinetly worth it though.
Finally glad to hear you found your problem, just had to trace the driveline back somemore to locate it.
Now you can rebuild cv joints, but I'd never mess with that, just buy new, replacing u-joints on the other hand is deffinetly worth it though.
Finally glad to hear you found your problem, just had to trace the driveline back somemore to locate it.
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I've got a 2001 SLT 4.7L 4X4 with the same issue. The CV joint going into the T case is all torn up and there is an awful grinding noise when 4WD is engaged and I try and accelerate. I had just bought this Durango used and believe the stealership covered this issue up by putting some heavy grease into this joint.
I have a couple questions:
1.) Is the stock end going into the T case a u-joint or is it splined?
2.) How difficult/expensive is it ti replace that end of the drive shaft?
I am very mechanically inclined but if specialty tools are needed, chances are I don't have them. Any and all help is appreciated. I will try and take pictures at some point if necessary.
I have a couple questions:
1.) Is the stock end going into the T case a u-joint or is it splined?
2.) How difficult/expensive is it ti replace that end of the drive shaft?
I am very mechanically inclined but if specialty tools are needed, chances are I don't have them. Any and all help is appreciated. I will try and take pictures at some point if necessary.
I've got a 2001 SLT 4.7L 4X4 with the same issue. The CV joint going into the T case is all torn up and there is an awful grinding noise when 4WD is engaged and I try and accelerate. I had just bought this Durango used and believe the stealership covered this issue up by putting some heavy grease into this joint.
I have a couple questions:
1.) Is the stock end going into the T case a u-joint or is it splined?
2.) How difficult/expensive is it ti replace that end of the drive shaft?
I am very mechanically inclined but if specialty tools are needed, chances are I don't have them. Any and all help is appreciated. I will try and take pictures at some point if necessary.
I have a couple questions:
1.) Is the stock end going into the T case a u-joint or is it splined?
2.) How difficult/expensive is it ti replace that end of the drive shaft?
I am very mechanically inclined but if specialty tools are needed, chances are I don't have them. Any and all help is appreciated. I will try and take pictures at some point if necessary.
Jaster, I had my driveshaft out since march until 2 weeks ago, My 4x4 works perfectly so you have a little bit of time.
MHarvey: Last I knew you couldn't actually replace one end of the driveshaft (went to like 15 diff shops and asked when mine went out) they are about 250 new.. bought mine for 50 at a pull it yourself salvage yard. I have seen used ones as cheap as 125. As long as those ends dont stick your fine with whatever you choose new or used. New will definately last longer.
MHarvey: Last I knew you couldn't actually replace one end of the driveshaft (went to like 15 diff shops and asked when mine went out) they are about 250 new.. bought mine for 50 at a pull it yourself salvage yard. I have seen used ones as cheap as 125. As long as those ends dont stick your fine with whatever you choose new or used. New will definately last longer.








