Well good job testing it out on a ford haha. It does sound iffy though, I don't know enough about tranny fluid composition to tell you weather it will clog the oil screen or not because that stuff is just nasty and sticks with a light coat to everything. I'm sure Hyrda will chime in here shortly with yet another novel on why not to put tranny fluid in the crankcase haha but we'll see what the expert has to say.

 

haha yea

 

i would never put anything but the recommended weight motor oil into the crankcase, im also sure that hydra will be able to explain why its bad in a much more concise manner than i could so i wont even try.

 

well i did a search on it and it seems to be an old school trick. also ehow.com claims it works.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7668200_do-f...ion-fluid.html

 

Well I'm not going to write a novel. Besides, you were using a bunch of different oils and blew your motor!

Anyway,

What I am going to write is my opinion. Yes this in an old school trick and yes it works. There is also the "old school trick" of slowly dripping a slight stream of trans fuild inside the drittle body and when it combusts it's very hot and literally burns the carbon build up out of the motor. Well I wouldn't do it because of trans fluid buring will plug the CAT of burn a hole through the piston.

There are a few "old School" tricks, but if I were to do it I would use a 1/2 quart of diesel fuel and use it instead of trans fluid. Yes you could plug the pick up screen on the oil pump.

If it was me I wouldn't mess around with any of these regardless. Just use Mobil One Fully Synthetic 10W-30 and that will clean out your engine.

 

How well does the mobil-1 work for high mileage engines and its synthetic correct?

 

Yup all Mobli 1 products are synthetic. Can't tell you anything about if it's better or not for high mileage engines.
Mine was between 180k-200k miles when I started experimenting with different oils to see how much sludge came out after each oil change and if any different kinds did anything for MPGs and valve tick. Basically the results were all synthetic oils gave me a tad better overall performance but really didn't do much for cleaning out anything from the crank case but when the temps got high the synthetics broke down and the valve tick came back, the dino oils are what cleaned it up a little better and it seemed to burn less of it every month compared to synthetics, but It also will wear out your engine faster.
I doubt it was the differnet oil brands and types I put in that blew the engine, it's been maxed out, run very hard and bogged down a ton of times and no one ever touched the bottom end of it since it was made in the factory, overall I'm surprised it ran and lasted as long as it did, those engines are built like tanks.
Personally I'd always run synthetics over dino oils and the sooner you start the better, but it's also more delicate than dino oils so I wouldn't push oil change intervals past 3000 miles, especially in the summer months.

 

Yes Mobil 1 is a completely FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil. Mine personally has 127k miles on it and my diesel has 218k miles on it and both run Mobil 1 and try both run like champs. Its nice not having to worry about a dry start or worry about sluggish oil when it's cold out. Keep in mine Mobil 1 flows like water at -52* F.

IMHO you just can't beat it. Get it from Wal Mart too and you can get a 5 quart jug of it for around $25 so it's not that much more expensive than premium oil.

Also, if you're serious about swapping over Mobil 1 has a High Mileage series that is said to be better for if the engine has ran Dino oil in the past and it is the same price.

 

My #1 concern was oil sludge, it was a common problem with these engines and you can prevent it early on by just using only fully synthetic oils, but if the previous owner only put the cheap regular oil in it I found out synthetics won't do much to fix the damage already done, but once get all the crankcase and oil sump nice and clean then you can start with synthetic oils and never have to worry about oil sludge clogging up your pickup screen and you loosing oil pressure again.

Also when I first bought my D I was unaware that it burnned as much oil as it did and I had to sign a paper at conrads saying I confirm there's no oil on the dipstick when I brought it in so any damage that happens after I can't blame on them. It was kind of cool later on, new cars tell you the oil life % left, mine you just let it burn up oil then when it's low and you make a right turn you loose all oil pressure, hear the chime and it's time for an oil change, probably helped a little bit too on my engine blowing but that car just needed to go so I didn't care.

 

I ran Quaker State in most of my vehicles until I had my Riviera then I used Castrol in it. My Avenger was using the Castrol syntec. When I did the oil on my D I put in the Castrol High Mileage. So if I can get a high mileage synthetic I think I will be golden.