'98 Durango - Knock, Tick, Slap?
#41
#42
See post 30 again. There is no reason to waste time and money on a motor swap yet.
Sometimes it is best to start with the easiest and least expensive and progress towards the more complex and expensive as necessary. It is rarely necessary to start at the complex/expensive level. You will learn that more and more over time.
IndyD
Sometimes it is best to start with the easiest and least expensive and progress towards the more complex and expensive as necessary. It is rarely necessary to start at the complex/expensive level. You will learn that more and more over time.
IndyD
#43
+1 10w, NOT 5w unless you live in Alaska.
IMHO... Full dump, refill with a quality 10w30 and filter swap, Add Rislone, run 1500 miles/30 days, Full Dump, refill with a quality 10w30 and filter swap. Listen and see if it has improved before any wrenching.
5.2 & 5.9 = same oil procedures
IndyDurango
IMHO... Full dump, refill with a quality 10w30 and filter swap, Add Rislone, run 1500 miles/30 days, Full Dump, refill with a quality 10w30 and filter swap. Listen and see if it has improved before any wrenching.
5.2 & 5.9 = same oil procedures
IndyDurango
Yeah, I agree. I had the oil change at Sears and she put in 5W again because it was recommended by the manufacturer. Yeah, when it had 0 miles on it, not 200k.
Rislone is 1 qt, so do I put in 4 qts of oil and 1 qt of Rislone?
#44
devinpitcher, my manual says for the 5.9 (this is a 2002 manual, but the 5.2 and 5.9 are the same in this regard) that dodge preferrs the use of 10w30 with 5w as an acceptable substitute when operating conditions will be at temperatures below freezing.
it also says that the opposite is true for the 4.7, 5w30 is preferred with 10w30 as an acceptable alternative as long as operating temperatures dont get below 0*F.
I have been using 10w in mine for as long as i can remember and as long you stick with the same weight over time dont see any issue with using either one of those 2 (we dont see temperatures below 10F in the winter, or over 100F in the summer where i live so i am in the recommended temperature range for either oil all year round on my truck and there was a large period of time before i got my license where 5w was extremely difficult to find in my area according to my father)
it also says that the opposite is true for the 4.7, 5w30 is preferred with 10w30 as an acceptable alternative as long as operating temperatures dont get below 0*F.
I have been using 10w in mine for as long as i can remember and as long you stick with the same weight over time dont see any issue with using either one of those 2 (we dont see temperatures below 10F in the winter, or over 100F in the summer where i live so i am in the recommended temperature range for either oil all year round on my truck and there was a large period of time before i got my license where 5w was extremely difficult to find in my area according to my father)
Last edited by shrpshtr325; 07-01-2011 at 12:23 PM.
#45
Yeah, that's what I figured. In Michigan, it's like a well known rule to use 5W in Winter, and 10W in Summer because in Winter you need a thinner oil and in Summer the oil thins with heat so use a thicker oil. I don't know why she put 5W in, but I'll be trying Indys suggestion next week when I get some time to do it.
#47
OK guys, I gotta ask a question here. Why the Risilone treatment now? I've used it as a cleaner in the past to try to break up sludge in an engine, but never when a bearing was suspected bad. I would expect it to open up the clearances in the bearings by removing whatever varnish / junk that has accumulated there already. It'll also clean out the scraper rings on the pistons and oil passages on the top end, possibly helping somewhat in oil control, but where is this going to help diagnose / control a knock? How about pulling plug wires first and finding out if it IS a rod bearing? Also, the difference in 5w to 10w isn't that significant this time of year up north. We get the same 70-80 degree days, maybe a few a little higher, but still nothing that's going to make the difference noticeable.
Bob
Bob
#48
New engine does same thing
I just had my 1998 Durango engine replaced with a brand new 5.9L and it makes the same noise as yours on the video...ticking when accelerating. Took it to the shop and they said that is what Durangos do. Funny that my old engine didn't. So what do I do? Do I take it to a dealership to get their opinion?