srch, i have the electronic switch in the cab, its really not all that bad

 

i know its not that bad, but i still prefer having the shifter right there... lol... call me old fashioned lol...

 

X2
I like being able to feel the input.

 

exactly! plus if somethin dont work its operator error and not some damn electrical problem

 

i agree with you both, believe it or not but having an 02 with the electronic shifter has its advantages, i do miss the ability to easily tell if there were a problem, however i also remember the manual shifter would stick in my dads old 96 dakota, that problem doesnt exist with the manual shifter

 

true sharps, but at least if my manual shifter sticks i know how to fix it... if its some electrical problem then it takes a bit more... im not complaining, if i had one that had the electrical shifter i would be fine with it, but if i was purchasing one again i would try to get a mechanical one again... just something about throwing your rig into 4x4 instead of turning a switch...

 

just wait until the bushing in the shift linkage wears out (and falls out) and you cant shift the t-case its the manual equivalent to your scenario, maybe easier to fix but just as irritating

 

true sharps

 

Well than would anyone care to try to explain to me how these other companies claim to lift the front?
Torsion bars seem to confuse me a bit :S
Good info in this thread!!

 

The torsion bar system works by having a bar secured on each end. One sides locked in place with a adjustment cam/bolt under the cab, the other is secured into the lower control arm so when the control arm is moved it twists, and the bar being sprung it resists. Breif unhelpfull example

Suspension lift kit hardware would lower your control arms with a new crossmember, aswell components to lower the differential - and axle flip in the rear- The kit just gives you new mounting points for your factory IFS in the front. Most costly lift 1"-5" ($1,500-$2,500) / worst quality issues/ nearly zero company support/ cannot replace broken lift parts without headaches.

A torsion shackle lift just extends the rear shackle and the torsion bar twists to put more down pressure on the lower control arm- Cheapest lift 2" ($20-$39) some report stiffer ride.

The body lift does not effect the factory suspension one bit as all your doing is lifting the body up off the frame. 1"-3" $200-$300


When i started fooling around i did my best not to F with the factory components so a 3" body lift and T/S were the best/cheapest option. I would never reccomend anything else other than a SAS