That tempature probe should be inserted into the vanes of the radiator. A pusher fan will fight with the stock fan causing turbulance and actualy blocks air. Try a 180 degree thermostate, but 210 was normal for me with 195 thermostate and stock fan. Cool your trans and this will help the trans fluid in the internal cooler. If you drop underhood temp this helps alot, get the heat out. Cheap air? Move the license plate. Heres a link for hood louvers, http://www.hoodlouvers.com/products.html Getting the heat out from under the hood helps performance and logivity of parts. The site say cop cars are droping 40 degrees under the hood. Not a good pic but can paint to match.

 

Here is my fan set up. I put it up agains the stock fan all day. At 3300 cfm it never goes past 220 in 110 degree day, plus it pulls air over condenser when air is on when stuck in traffic.

 

Thanks for the links, I just thought it was odd that it gets that hot. But with how that 360 is crammed in there it is understandable. Would header wrap work also to bring down the under hood temps? I know it works on drag cars just wondering if anyone has tried it on our trucks.

 

Think of it as a midsize suv with a v8. My beast weighs 5400# with me in it. With options I have its a small Ramcharger, minus the staight axle. Same motor and transfercase, trans with one extra gear. Header wrap works, do you want to pull out the headers again? If you have ceramic coated headers there is no need. Try taking the inner plastic fenders out. The heat will exscape. With the temps your in its should run normal. Towing, you should run synthetic in rear diff(factory recomendation-see manual) run a deeper trans pan and larger cooler. But if you tow alot get the louvers or a cowl induction hood and get as much heat out of the engine compartment.

 

Ok thanks, if I take out the in plastic wheel well piece I will just pack it full of snow in the winter. If I continue to tow like this summer went then I will definitely look at a deeper trans pan. I don't have headers but I was thinking that it might work on the factory manifolds.

 

I dunno if I can agree with that 'shrps, my temps when towing stay lower since I did the Flex-a-Lite on my truck.


Also, a good test for the temp coil on the clutch fan is to disconnect it (the round coil connected to the fan), it causes the fan to spin all the time. If this fixes your overheat issue, it's the coil, replace the fan (since they are not removable)...

 

My temps stay down, I was just wondering if it is unusual to have the fan running full on at 50 degrees, sitting still for 30sec.

 

the clutches on the durangos is a bolt on piece to the fan hammer



unless i missunderstood what you were trying to say, if so my bad.

 

Are you talking about a flex fan or a electronic fan?

 

I do believe flex-a-lite is an electric fan brand.