My pal has the Flex-a-lite(Ram truck)...I kinda like how he can adjust the controller(,quite a bit for all it matters) summer/winter,plus the switch (3-way) on=off-full...it's a nice rig....

 

I would not want my truck to be running at 220 degrees anytime. Your heads will eventually crack from the extra heat. Even then, the PCM will put your engine in limp mode when temp heats 210 so you will lose alot of power.

With a fan pulling that much cfm, you may have to check your cooling system to see why it is reaching 220 on a 110 day?

This year in DFW, it's been a very hot summer. With heat index reaching 110 or higher and my truck barely reached 210 with a faulty stat. After replacing the bad stat with a new stat, I never go over 200 degrees on a 110 day. And I am using the stock clutch fan/oem electric fan combo.

 

+1 Kensai<------- That's too hot for my liking!

There are belt driven or electric setups. The name "Flex-A-Lite" is a name brand. The actual model would help and that is why I asked the question: http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/index.html

 

I like 180-200 for my temp, Idling at 98 degrees out the new fan clutch kept it at 205-210

 

What I meant is that after I replaced the mechanical fan I never got that hot. With the mechanical fan I was hitting that on 110+ days once in a blue moon and we dont have moisture like Dallas to help in cooling. When the asphault is 180 and the heat of the cars around you. With the Flex-A-Lite I run 185-195 with a 180 Thermostate. But I have droped the under hood temps without the inner fenders also. Which I will have to cover if I goto Wy this winter. Trucks warm but not the driver. Plus at 5400# with me in the truck its 700+ heavyer than stock. I also dont have to shift into neutral and hi Idle like the manual says. Flip the switch and go. If you run into the store turn it on and cool it down, you know the A/C could use the help. If Dodge would have put in a realistic radiator in the first place the truck would run cooler and the air would work better with larger parts.

 

I run the Flex-A-Lite thermostate and had to replace it and just JB welded it back together. Just put it some where other than on top of fan. Asume it bumps around to much. No temps on it, it is a dial and its up to you to find that spot. I figure about 180 summer and 195 in winter to get the heater to warm up.

 

So you jus had to replace it and moved it? My buddy's swearing by his,telling me to get one everytime i see him....I'm thinking it's a good idea. Looking at Kensai's photo which is the thermo,is it on the top left in that pic?

 

I replaced the first one, JB d this one. In my pic it is in the uper left side. The probe gives you about 2ft of reach. The board is not secured to anything it floats in the box off the two screw that hold the box together. I have burned the wires twice. Could be from water or vibration. This time the Blue wire came off the board. Could not find one of the 2 soder rolls I have and jb to the board. Redneck survival kit: Duck(duct)Tape, Bailing wire and JB Weld. Have use 100mph tape to strap camera on offroad race car.

 

When I has my Blazer the fan worked like this. When the truck was cold and you spun the fan it would spin free. So I thought it would be the same with the Durango.
The Durangos are the opposite. They are not supposed to spin free. I was getting ready to change mine a while back because I thought it was stuck. I told a guy at Autozone about it he came out and looked at the fan and explained how they work different then the old ones. Then he said mine had been replaced and it was one you'd use if you were pulling trailers.

 

That's how they work isn't it?? They spin 1/4-1/2 turn when cold and as things get hot the bimetal spring tightens and locks it to get full fan....it's shouldn't spin free
when cold but up to 1/2 turn is ok right?? They all work that way don't they?