hi- i am new to this forum but not new to dodge or chryslers-we have owned about 6 or so dodge trucks and a few mini vans and a crossover and have been reasonably happy with chrysler.so here is my problem.
i have a 2000 durango that when you push on the throttle it cuts out and spits and sputters like it is not getting enough fuel. if you just barely touch or pump the throttle it will go right along. so does this sound like a fuel pump to anybody and do you need to drop the fuel tank to change it or is there a trap door somewhere.
thanks and waiting to hear from my fellow dodgers. hahaha

 

Welcome to the site. I moved this thread to the first generation Durango section,
FF

 

the pump is inside the tank, and it needs to be dropped to replace the pump.

if it were me i would start by checking the fuel pressure at the rail, it should be between 45 and 55 psi, with 50+ being preferred.

 

hi- so when i check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and it says 50+ then does that mean my fuel pump is ok and where would you go next. i am not sure if i told you but if i pump the gas pedal than i can go right along but i am pumpimg it countinueous.

 

+1 shrps yes 50+ is great, but 45psi is still good. After that cleaning the throttle body and checking tps and IAC sensors, then on to O2 sensors after that, it does sound like the fuel pump that is the first place to start.

 

thank you- i guess i am going to put in a new fuel pump if it test low fuel pressure and see if that does it.
thanks again
hammer

 

You need good fuel pressure(45-50psi) under load, not just at idle.

 

Welcome to the site

 

Incorrect, it should be measured at curb idle at full operational temperature. Now it is "Preferred" to be 50+ as we have seen many go out under 50 psi. Here is the exact directions, but I would also hit the throttle and make sure the pump can keep up.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL PRESSURE
LEAK DOWN TEST
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump
Pressure Test and Fuel Pump Capacity Test.
Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump
outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel
flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply
line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational.
It is also used to keep the fuel supply line
full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After
the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop
to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will
remain in fuel supply line between the check valve
and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has
dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle
(engine off) is a normal condition. When the electric
fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should
immediately (1–2 seconds) rise to specification.
Abnormally long periods of cranking to restart a
hot engine that has been shut down for a short
period of time may be caused by:
. Fuel pressure bleeding past a fuel injector(s).
. Fuel pressure bleeding past the check valve in
the fuel pump module.
(1) Disconnect the fuel inlet line at fuel rail. Refer
to Fuel Tubes/Lines/Hoses and Clamps for procedures.
On some engines, air cleaner housing removal
may be necessary before fuel line disconnection.
(2) Obtain correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter
Tool Hose. Tool number 6539 is used for 5/16” fuel
lines and tool number 6631 is used for 3/8” fuel lines.
(3) Connect correct Fuel Line Pressure Test
Adapter Tool Hose between disconnected fuel line
and fuel rail (Fig. 1).
(4) Connect the 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure
test gauge (from Gauge Set 5069) to the test port on
the appropriate Adaptor Tool. The DRBt III Scan
Tool along with the PEP module, the 500 psi
pressure transducer, and the transducer-to-test
port adapter may also be used in place of the
fuel pressure gauge.
The fittings on both tools must be in good
condition and free from any small leaks before
performing the proceeding test.
(5) Start engine and bring to normal operating
temperature.
(6) Observe test gauge. Normal operating pressure
should be 339 kPa +/–34 kPa (49.2 psi +/–5 psi).
(7) Shut engine off.
(8) Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five
minutes.
(9) If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined
if a fuel injector, the check valve within the
fuel pump module, or a fuel tube/line is leaking.
(10) Again, start engine and bring to normal operating
temperature.
(11) Shut engine off.
(12) Testing for fuel injector or fuel rail leakage:
Clamp off the rubber hose portion of Adaptor
Tool between the fuel rail and the test port “T” on
Adapter Tool. If pressure now holds at or above 30
psi, a fuel injector or the fuel rail is leaking.
(13) Testing for fuel pump check valve, filter/
regulator check valve or fuel tube/line leakage:
Clamp off the rubber hose portion of Adaptor Tool
between the vehicle fuel line and test port “T” on
Adapter Tool. If pressure now holds at or above 30
psi, a leak may be found at a fuel tube/line. If no
leaks are found at fuel tubes or lines, one of the
check valves in either the electric fuel pump or filter/
regulator may be leaking.
Note: A quick loss of pressure usually indicates a
defective check valve in the filter/regulator. A slow
loss of pressure usually indicates a defective check
valve in the electric fuel pump.
The electric fuel pump is not serviced separately.
Replace the fuel pump module assembly. The filter/
regulator may be replaced separately on certain
applications. Refer to Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure Regulator
Removal/Installation for additional information.