03 durango wont start wont run
#1
03 durango wont start wont run
hello new here looking for some help thanks.
Bought a 03 durango 4.7 with a no start issue. i have a vast background in import tuning. so it turns over and will almost start up. a couple times i did get it started first try in the morning but it quickly died in two seconds. gets good 50 psi fuel pressure. good spark i believe.
not much of a check engine light. did get a cam angle code once so i put new cam and crank sensors in. ( which they barely came out ) and still nothing, wont run.
any more ideas greatly appreciated thanks !
battery and starter are not the issue.
Bought a 03 durango 4.7 with a no start issue. i have a vast background in import tuning. so it turns over and will almost start up. a couple times i did get it started first try in the morning but it quickly died in two seconds. gets good 50 psi fuel pressure. good spark i believe.
not much of a check engine light. did get a cam angle code once so i put new cam and crank sensors in. ( which they barely came out ) and still nothing, wont run.
any more ideas greatly appreciated thanks !
battery and starter are not the issue.
Last edited by btrux0611; 09-23-2011 at 10:34 AM.
#3
That sounds like the factory alarm system is going off on you, try to reset it first. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...going-off.html
Check the power door lock fuse. In this TSB even though not for your year still might shed some light.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...eft-alarm.html
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/08-24-00.htm
Check the power door lock fuse. In this TSB even though not for your year still might shed some light.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...eft-alarm.html
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/08-24-00.htm
#5
#6
im still getting code po344 which i may have forgot to mention. but put a new cam angle sensor already in it and the wiring should be fine. i tested the plug is sending 5 volts to the sensor.
the engine did start today for a good 20 seconds for the first time its ran longer than 2 seconds. ( i can only get it to barely start first thing in the morning)
but it ran really bad and wouldnt rev past 1500.
whats the chances the timing chain skipped a tooth or two ??
the engine did start today for a good 20 seconds for the first time its ran longer than 2 seconds. ( i can only get it to barely start first thing in the morning)
but it ran really bad and wouldnt rev past 1500.
whats the chances the timing chain skipped a tooth or two ??
#7
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#8
#9
IT sat for a year and a half at least. What's the chances I fixed it already with say the new crank angle sensor and now it just has bad gas??
IT'll run now but barely stay running and won't rev up for about 5 to ten seconds first try in the morning. Then after first try won't fire up at all .
IT'll run now but barely stay running and won't rev up for about 5 to ten seconds first try in the morning. Then after first try won't fire up at all .
#10
When the alarm system on this '98 was activated, it would start and run normally for a few seconds, and then shut down. If the system is roughly the same, then that's probably not it.
Also, it's been sitting for over 2 years, and has 1/2 tank of gas, still runs fine. That's probably not it either.
In the past, when I've had a motor that would "almost" start and run, seems to want to run, but just won't do it, it was usually either an ignition problem (plugs, wires, cap, coil, whatever), which you probably would've found by now, or a compression problem.
My suggestion would be to get a cheap compression tester (under $25 usually) and do a compression test on all cylinders before I did anything else. Your test should give you readings of about 160 PSI (plus or minus a little) in all cylinders, if everything is normal and OK. Anything under 90 PSI in more than a couple of cylinders, and you get what you're seeing.....it'll fire and try to run, but can't.
If your compression is OK, then the motor is sound and you can put money into it without wasting it, but I wouldn't spend another penny until I verified the compression. My opinion is, of course, based on my own experiences with this sort of thing and you may very well find it's something simple and cheap to fix, in your case.
[EDIT]
Just re-read your last post.
If it starts and runs for a few seconds, won't rev, then quits and won't start again....are you checking your fuel pressure again after it won't start? I don't know what the pressure should read, but it rather sounds like your fuel pump is old and weak. The 50 PSI you got before sounds about right (again, I don't know really what it should be), but I'd make sure it isn't dropping off soon after the pump starts running.
Also, it's been sitting for over 2 years, and has 1/2 tank of gas, still runs fine. That's probably not it either.
In the past, when I've had a motor that would "almost" start and run, seems to want to run, but just won't do it, it was usually either an ignition problem (plugs, wires, cap, coil, whatever), which you probably would've found by now, or a compression problem.
My suggestion would be to get a cheap compression tester (under $25 usually) and do a compression test on all cylinders before I did anything else. Your test should give you readings of about 160 PSI (plus or minus a little) in all cylinders, if everything is normal and OK. Anything under 90 PSI in more than a couple of cylinders, and you get what you're seeing.....it'll fire and try to run, but can't.
If your compression is OK, then the motor is sound and you can put money into it without wasting it, but I wouldn't spend another penny until I verified the compression. My opinion is, of course, based on my own experiences with this sort of thing and you may very well find it's something simple and cheap to fix, in your case.
[EDIT]
Just re-read your last post.
If it starts and runs for a few seconds, won't rev, then quits and won't start again....are you checking your fuel pressure again after it won't start? I don't know what the pressure should read, but it rather sounds like your fuel pump is old and weak. The 50 PSI you got before sounds about right (again, I don't know really what it should be), but I'd make sure it isn't dropping off soon after the pump starts running.
Last edited by brhodes; 10-25-2011 at 11:15 AM.