Average winter highs are -5 to 20, lows -15 to 5. We have about 2 weeks a year where the lows are -35 and high -10. A few years back I remember -45 . It was cold, and we still see 100 in the summer.

Watchin' the colts game too, OMG........I feel sorry for em'.

 

Poor basterds got wrecked....(heehee) I like a blow out here n there but that was bad....
Yeah that's colder than here unless we get a "snap"..it does drop at night like everywhere,and Gloucester is actually an island so it get's weird sumtimes but you're def colder there.If it works for you gotta be good here too then...I hit the link sharp posted last night,got a 6-pack mobile1 0w-30,mobile1 extended filter and a $15 rebate so I bit..just looked no more rebate..how bout the Amsoil..expensive?

 

Yeah amsoil is expensive unless you get a preferred customer package ($20 a year) then you get it at wholesale. Just got 2 oil changes ordered, $130. With out the preferred customer it was about $160, at napa here it was $175. But I do the 10k intervals.......so I do save in the long run (like $5).

 

10k intervals? Just because they tell you that you can? No frackin' way.

The only way to know what your oil will do is if you send it out for sample testing and address the TBN factor remaining.

With that said, my Mobil1 gets 7000 if I want it to. And I don't pay crazy Amsoil prices. I choose to swap it around 5000 but if I get lazy or busy, I know for a fact I am good to 7000. You can not be sure about yours based on Amsoils claims. Only if you test yourself.

Blackstone Labs BTW.

IndyDurango

 

Well amsoil claims 25k, there is no way on that. I watched it to see when it looks like it should be changed, then change it. How black it gets is a pretty good indicator, I also cut open my filters.

 

Cut open your filters? For what? If the parts in the filter are big enough for you to see with the naked eye, it is WAY to far gone to matter at that point. ROTFMAO.

If an oil is doing its job, it will often if not always look black. It has cleaned and contained the contaminants that were once on the cylinder walls, etc.

Testing is the only correct way to extend life cycles of oil. Otherwise, just stick to a 3000 change interval for dino oil and and 4500 interval for 100% synth. Use a new quality filter every time and don't skimp on the filter. Filtering is the least of your worries when an anti-siphoning failure, gasket seal/set failure, etc occurs.

IndyDurango

 

see,even at my ripe old age I still learn new things.....Ok ,Indy,The Blackstone labs....You send a sample and depending on what you ask for they test and send results(iirc).I know that says a lot about the oil,in turn a lot about the engine.ARE they really that good? Not questioning them,I mean do you learn that much about the engine? I've never seen a result chart so I'm a total newb there......This is REALLY interesting. I want synth only but I need to redo my v/c gaskets.They leaked a little with synth before so I want reseal my top end and do an oil consumption test..Already got the oil and filt so I'm ready to go.... but maybe I should test what I dump out?

Adukart,That is expensive but I guess if you get that kinda miles between changes it's not too bad...only thing I'de want to know is if the Amsoil
is that good or if in our older engines it doesn't make a difference any more....In a new or just broken in,I could see it giving you almost indefinate life for the engine...IF it's that good..compared to mobile1 what's the difference?

If anyone here knows,I saw Peak just came out with full synth at a real good price,and,Advance has a store brand that's full synth....Anyone know about them?

 

Yeah I know it is too far gone, but it is a good indicator if you see silver to do a rebuild (I also like to compare pleating, drain back valve, and how dirty it actually gets) just me being curious. I believe it is ROTFLMAO, not ROTFMAO. Also filters are rated at microns, micro which is 1x10 raised to the -6 power from what ever base unit or .000001, which is incredibly small. Its been changed every 10k its entire life and still runs great, benefits of buying from the original owner who is also your uncle. I could have it tested but see no need now. I plan on doing a 408 stroker in the next 25-30k and have great compression, 152psi on the lowest cylinder (that a spark plug electrode bridge broke off in and I assume came out the exhaust since I couldn't find it) the rest are 156-159 @ 160k miles. Can't ask for much more IMO.

Always change with a good filter at every oil change. Never just change oil or the filter, I think we see eye to eye on that one right Indy? I do agree about your change intervals if you don't know the oil or have never had it tested for 5k on syn. Never go past 3k on conventional unless necessary.

Laz, the testing company will tell you what contaminants are in the oil. Hopefully no metal (there will always be a trivial amount from normal wear, but close to none), if there is antifreeze (pray to god no), fuel, ect. But they will also test to see if the oil is still doing its job and estimate the life left in it.

Sorry for the long post, just trying to clear up some miscommunication

 

Laz45, et al...

Testing is like having x-ray vision and an advance prediction failure related to a parts problem, thousands of miles and maybe even years before parts-failure.

I was nervous when I first sent a sample out, now send every other one to baseline any changes and get a huge jump start on an issue before it even becomes an issue.

When you review the report the lab returns (paper via mail and the electronic email version they will send) you get an idea of what each metal represents in your sample. Moly may be lifters and valves while Iron may be the crank. Silicon is sand from the efficiency (or not) of your air cleaner setup, while Phosphorus is an additive in the oil. Each number provides you insight into potential problems BEFORE they happen. If you have an alarming increase in one, you know right away the particular part related to that metal is failing… BEFORE it fails.

Wouldn't you rather get a valve job before having to twist one off and need a whole new head? Or needing a new block from a crank or piston failure, or etc., etc., etc. Getting samples is the best method outside of a race car break down after each usage. Of course that isn't practical, so sampling is your only method of reliable predictability.

Here is my DOC thread showing many years of my sample reporting, discussion thread, etc. You can see my own D's personal progression.

http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11051

After reviewing... what do you think?

IndyDurango

 

I see it,different metals knocked against what you know your engine is built with..plus elements drawn in...man it's thorough.A lot of information for short money. That's like the perfect barometer..there.Yeah,you could catch about anything before it happenes, well, within reason, I get it. You're right on the tbn too,just seems like good info...I just ordered a single,I'm changing in the morn but I'll jar it till the kit comes...excellent way to find out. Ithink a 6 pack makes sense from here though...
Thanks for the heads up,I read about Blackstone(in the FAQ I think) but I wanted to see a report from a user here..Now I know.....TY guys