Only have 2nd and 3rd gears- limp mode
#11
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The person who screwed me on my last trans is a family member who is actually a good mechanic. Problem is if your vehicle needs fixed when he is in need of money. If so, then you will have a bigger problem than you started with. I originally was having him help with the output sensor but then he said my tranny is shot. But the excuse was that I had been driving in strictly 4wd for too long. That didn't sit well with me, considering these things are built for just that.
I have taken it to one other shop already, waiting to hear from them and will go from there. I do know that if it is the trans it will go to someone different. I just thought I would give it a chance to see if anyone else had a similar problem and what the solution was. The sensor is only $22 and I have been told its not a hard job to change. No clue about the linkage.
I have taken it to one other shop already, waiting to hear from them and will go from there. I do know that if it is the trans it will go to someone different. I just thought I would give it a chance to see if anyone else had a similar problem and what the solution was. The sensor is only $22 and I have been told its not a hard job to change. No clue about the linkage.
Again, I think most agree here there's probably nothing wrong with the transmission itself. And replacing the sensor is probably the best place to start. In the event that doesn't fix your problem, then it's likely a valve body malfunction, but even that isn't a big problem, and wouldn't require you to pull and rebuild the transmission. Servos and valves are easy to replace, it just requires pulling the valve body.
One thing I wanted to ask....have you considered trying some Trans-X or something like it? It'll often free up a sticking valve or servo, fairly quickly. I'm not a huge believer in stuff like that, but I've seen it work too many times to discount it. My own Suburban had a sticky valve. A friend of mine talked me into trying the stuff before I pulled the valve body, so I dumped in a pint, drove it about 20 miles, and it suddenly started working perfectly, shifting smoothly again. That was 2 years ago.
If it were me, and they determined that it's a problem with the valve body and not the sensor, I'd at least give that a try before I spent a few hundred for them to do 90 minutes worth of work (if you manage to get by that cheap).
#12
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sorry to disagree with you brhordes, but NEVER EVER add any additives to the chrysler ATF +4 transmission fluid, it is a very specialized fluid and any deviation from this fluid in a chrysler transmisison WILL cause problems, when and exactly what those problems will be i couldnt tell you, but definitely fix it right instead of contaminating your transmission fluid
#13
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sorry to disagree with you brhordes, but NEVER EVER add any additives to the chrysler ATF +4 transmission fluid, it is a very specialized fluid and any deviation from this fluid in a chrysler transmisison WILL cause problems, when and exactly what those problems will be i couldnt tell you, but definitely fix it right instead of contaminating your transmission fluid
Hell, don't be sorry for disagreeing with me, I've said all along I'm new to these Durangos, and I'm only basing any advice I can give upon a considerable knowledge of other vehicles. No need to be sorry at all, if I'm wrong, I'd much rather know it than having someone keep quiet for concern about damaging my ego
![Smile](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
And that's something else I need to know...I've put dextron III in this transmission, almost 7 quarts, simply because I've always used it in every Dodge I've owned in the past....do I need to drain it and replace it with ATF4? Or can I simply drain a few quarts and refill it with AT4? I haven't been driving it, so I'm sure no damage has been done, but if I need to change this, I'd rather know sooner, than later.
#14
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Thanks for all the suggestions. The shop I took it to yesterday called and said they want to change the output sensor. They are quite sure that will fix the problem. If not, we will go from there. They are sure it isn't the transmission. It goes in on Friday so I will let you know how it goes.
#15
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Hell, don't be sorry for disagreeing with me, I've said all along I'm new to these Durangos, and I'm only basing any advice I can give upon a considerable knowledge of other vehicles. No need to be sorry at all, if I'm wrong, I'd much rather know it than having someone keep quiet for concern about damaging my ego ![Smile](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
And that's something else I need to know...I've put dextron III in this transmission, almost 7 quarts, simply because I've always used it in every Dodge I've owned in the past....do I need to drain it and replace it with ATF4? Or can I simply drain a few quarts and refill it with AT4? I haven't been driving it, so I'm sure no damage has been done, but if I need to change this, I'd rather know sooner, than later.
![Smile](https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
And that's something else I need to know...I've put dextron III in this transmission, almost 7 quarts, simply because I've always used it in every Dodge I've owned in the past....do I need to drain it and replace it with ATF4? Or can I simply drain a few quarts and refill it with AT4? I haven't been driving it, so I'm sure no damage has been done, but if I need to change this, I'd rather know sooner, than later.
YES drain it ALL OUT and put in ATF +4, if you dont you will end up with a very expensive trans rebuild/replacement, if it were me i would even purge all the old fluid out by removing the trans cooler return line and pumping it out into a bucket while adding fresh ATF +4
fluid types should never me mixed(including brands and weights, IMO this applies to engine oils, trans fluids, gear oils, coolant ect ect, and chrysler transmissions tend to be VERY particular about getting ATF +4 (or 3 depending on the year, but 4 is compatible and better) put in them.
also make sure you get ATF+4 NOT ATF-4, they are different, only the +4 is approved for use in these transmissions.
#16
#17
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right, forgot to add that last time i heard valvoline and mopar are the only chrysler approved brands avaiable to you, so pick one and do the purge, you will need alot of fluid bc i believe a fluid change is 12 qts and a dry fill (tq and all) is 14-16, and you want to put at a minimum that much in
#18
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Purchase 4 gallons of Mopar ATF +4 from the parts department of your nearest dealership and you will be good to go and in the clear to do your fluid purge!
#20
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My Truck, (Ram 1500 4x4 5.9l Automatic 2003) Is doing exactly the same thing. First only works manually, or out of park.. While driving, sometimes (Not Always) Gets stuck in either second or third (Only had it a few days, its always the same gear, im just not sure which..) .. Other times, it runs like a charm. Ive ordered a Transmission Solenoid, not sure if that will work or not.. (NO engine codes coming up, AT ALL....?)