What to do with rear differential yoke
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What to do with rear differential yoke
OK Guys I need your input and suggestions on what to do
My son was driving and the drive shaft let go at the rear differential. Broke the rear output extension housing and drive shaft completely disengaged. So here we are, went to the pick and pull and found a extension housing and rear drive shaft for $50. Picked up a new seal and thought all was good. Well it is not.
Seems that the bolts that hold the U-Joint in place at the rear diff sheared, 3 of the 4 are broken. My question is what have you all done / what do you all recommend? Do I drill them out and tap them or do i drill them out and helicoil them, or do I drill them out and put bolts all the way through? My fear is that I will need to pull the yoke. Can I do this without ripping apart the rear diff?
My son was driving and the drive shaft let go at the rear differential. Broke the rear output extension housing and drive shaft completely disengaged. So here we are, went to the pick and pull and found a extension housing and rear drive shaft for $50. Picked up a new seal and thought all was good. Well it is not.
Seems that the bolts that hold the U-Joint in place at the rear diff sheared, 3 of the 4 are broken. My question is what have you all done / what do you all recommend? Do I drill them out and tap them or do i drill them out and helicoil them, or do I drill them out and put bolts all the way through? My fear is that I will need to pull the yoke. Can I do this without ripping apart the rear diff?
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OK so I just remove the nut, pull the Yoke and then replace the seals with a new yoke. better than trying to drill and tap.
anyone know the torque specs for that? I will run to the pick and pull and get a yoke. does it matter on the yoke what type of motor or such?
anyone know the torque specs for that? I will run to the pick and pull and get a yoke. does it matter on the yoke what type of motor or such?
Record Breaker
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Bismarck, ND
Cheater pipe or an big impact.
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OK thanks for the great ideas. I am back on the road but will attack this on Friday. I will pull the yoke and see if i can get the bolts out and if not make a trip to the pick and pull replace the seals and get my big breaker bar and torque wrench.
I will take some pics and post an update this weekend.
Bill
I will take some pics and post an update this weekend.
Bill
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Riverton, UT
Here, at least this is for a 2000+ Durango.
http://www.dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-...ferential.html
It is actually very easy.
Take off the drive line at the rear yoke and just move to the side, also great time to check your U-joint. Now brake loose the center bolt that holds the yoke on and remove the nut. Now place a 2 finger puller on the yoke and remove it. Watch for some fluid to come out but not too much, get a large butter container or what not. Now using a large flat head screw driver or seal removal tool just pop it out, but make sure you do NOT gouge and surface of the housing, only the seal. Now there is an internal crush sleeve in there but just leave it alone.
Now take the new seal and place a light coat of grease to the outer rim of the seal. Now using a socket that fits perfectly to the middle of the seal lip set it up and smack it flat, little by little smack it in until you hear a tone change which means it is counter sunk correctly.
Now grab the yoke and clean off the seal to surface ring with some fine steal wool. Now lubricate the surface to the ring where the old seal rode on. Now gently lubricate the seal lip and slide the yoke back on being very observant to the seal surface not to tear it or gouge it.
Now raise the rear wheels off the ground and chock the front wheels. Now using a large pipe wrench as a back op tool on the outside of the yoke slowly tighten up the nut. Now hear is where it gets a little complicated.
See you need an INCH Lbs Torque Wrench to finish the job, not a regular FOOT LBS torque wrench! Now with the rear wheels off the ground, and drive line disconnected, you place the torque wrench to the bolt and turn it watching how many INCH LBS it takes to turn the nut which in turn it turns the rear wheels off the ground. See you tighten it with the normal wrench using the pipe wrench as a back up then you remove both wrenchs and use just the INCH LBS torque wrench to monitored the resistance being placed on the rear carrier. Once you get it to the specifications you are done. Now I turn it a few times and then take my reading to ensure everything has seated correctly.
DO this a few times till you get it down, then remove the nut and add Red color Lok-Tite on the nut and cinch it down to specifications.
What you are doing here is setting the pinion bearing pre-load.
Specifications:
Chrysler 9.25 Rear Differential
Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings 1-2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings 1.7-4 N·m (15-35 in. lbs.)
Chrylser 8.25 Rear Differential
Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings 1-2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings 1.7-4 N·m (15-35 in. lbs.)
Take off the drive line at the rear yoke and just move to the side, also great time to check your U-joint. Now brake loose the center bolt that holds the yoke on and remove the nut. Now place a 2 finger puller on the yoke and remove it. Watch for some fluid to come out but not too much, get a large butter container or what not. Now using a large flat head screw driver or seal removal tool just pop it out, but make sure you do NOT gouge and surface of the housing, only the seal. Now there is an internal crush sleeve in there but just leave it alone.
Now take the new seal and place a light coat of grease to the outer rim of the seal. Now using a socket that fits perfectly to the middle of the seal lip set it up and smack it flat, little by little smack it in until you hear a tone change which means it is counter sunk correctly.
Now grab the yoke and clean off the seal to surface ring with some fine steal wool. Now lubricate the surface to the ring where the old seal rode on. Now gently lubricate the seal lip and slide the yoke back on being very observant to the seal surface not to tear it or gouge it.
Now raise the rear wheels off the ground and chock the front wheels. Now using a large pipe wrench as a back op tool on the outside of the yoke slowly tighten up the nut. Now hear is where it gets a little complicated.
See you need an INCH Lbs Torque Wrench to finish the job, not a regular FOOT LBS torque wrench! Now with the rear wheels off the ground, and drive line disconnected, you place the torque wrench to the bolt and turn it watching how many INCH LBS it takes to turn the nut which in turn it turns the rear wheels off the ground. See you tighten it with the normal wrench using the pipe wrench as a back up then you remove both wrenchs and use just the INCH LBS torque wrench to monitored the resistance being placed on the rear carrier. Once you get it to the specifications you are done. Now I turn it a few times and then take my reading to ensure everything has seated correctly.
DO this a few times till you get it down, then remove the nut and add Red color Lok-Tite on the nut and cinch it down to specifications.
What you are doing here is setting the pinion bearing pre-load.
Specifications:
Chrysler 9.25 Rear Differential
Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings 1-2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings 1.7-4 N·m (15-35 in. lbs.)
Chrylser 8.25 Rear Differential
Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings 1-2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings 1.7-4 N·m (15-35 in. lbs.)