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Blower Motor Resistor - Constant burn-outs
#41
Resistors and connector fried
I have had all the problems reported here. Replaced blower motor, resistors, and plugs multiple times. Finally, finally figured it out. At least with my 2002 Dodge Dakota (and I suspect other Dodges with same problems), I notice some moisture on blower cage last time I changed that out. Next time I changed out blower, water poured from the motor housing (blower stopped working only 1 month into use). On line I find out that older Dodges are getting leaks in their A/C condensate discharge line or through penetration through engine wall. My hose was cracked. So over time, water was leaking back into air system, draining down into lowest point (yes, the blower motor casing) and causing blower motor to burn out the resistors and melt the resistor plug (but the blower kept running - poorly). It was insidious, because it starts out slow and you figure there is something wrong with resistor, resistor connector (which melted) or the blower motor's old, or they-don't-make-these-blower-motors-like-they-used to. Replace everything or directly soldered wires to resistor to no avail. It happens again (until water leak was so great I couldn't miss it). Like I said, there are multiple videos and forums discussing this A/C condensate leak back into the vehicle and how to repair that. I managed it by turning wheel left, jacking up truck and reaching in to pull off drain shield and then putty up cracked drain hose and all around the hose penetration. My problem solved - finally. This may be your issue. Especially if you didn't have this problem all those wonderful first years with the truck. Good luck.
#43
2002 Durango SLT, 5.9L Magnum
Like so many others I’ve had this ongoing resistor/harness problem for awhile now. I’ve probably replaced the resistor 4x. At first it was good for weeks before needing to be replaced again, but over time got down to like a day or 2 before needing to be replaced. Burn marks were always obvious on Pin 2 at both resistor and connector. There was no evidence of moisture anywhere like some have seen. I finally did what I should have from the beginning and replaced the blower, cut back old harness and spliced in a new one and installed new resistor. The old blower spun freely and it did not feel restricted in any way. I got the resistor from dealer for $20, the blower from Autozone $100 and the harness from Autozone $18. The blower now works fine at aIl speeds and hopefully stays that way. One thing I did not like during repair was the off shelf harness was all the same wire gauge where as the harness in truck has 2 different size wires so butt splicing the large and small together using the larger butt splice was not holding so great. Got it to hold securely, but solder and shrink would be better.
Like so many others I’ve had this ongoing resistor/harness problem for awhile now. I’ve probably replaced the resistor 4x. At first it was good for weeks before needing to be replaced again, but over time got down to like a day or 2 before needing to be replaced. Burn marks were always obvious on Pin 2 at both resistor and connector. There was no evidence of moisture anywhere like some have seen. I finally did what I should have from the beginning and replaced the blower, cut back old harness and spliced in a new one and installed new resistor. The old blower spun freely and it did not feel restricted in any way. I got the resistor from dealer for $20, the blower from Autozone $100 and the harness from Autozone $18. The blower now works fine at aIl speeds and hopefully stays that way. One thing I did not like during repair was the off shelf harness was all the same wire gauge where as the harness in truck has 2 different size wires so butt splicing the large and small together using the larger butt splice was not holding so great. Got it to hold securely, but solder and shrink would be better.