Clicking noise what to check.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 14,228
Likes: 19
From: Riverton, UT
It almost sounds like you have a R/T model.
Listen, never do that again! I am thinking that when you disconnected the drive shaft and removed it power that would normally transfer to both axles now only transfers to the front because of lack of torque. The NV244 case will do this.
With the main front shaft removed place the T-case is 4X4 HI and try to drive it once more. If you are scared of shifting then turn the truck off with the key switch, move the selector back into park and restart then shift again. Do not place it in neutral again!
Most likely your drive shaft is bad because the bearing is open to elements. You can have it looked at by a drive line rebuilder and see if they can replace just the end, and the U-Joint while your at it on the other side, or swap to another from a junker. Of course a new one should last you a long time. As for the the newer style in the link you posted, I'm not sure where he got it, but it is a better design.
Listen, never do that again! I am thinking that when you disconnected the drive shaft and removed it power that would normally transfer to both axles now only transfers to the front because of lack of torque. The NV244 case will do this.
With the main front shaft removed place the T-case is 4X4 HI and try to drive it once more. If you are scared of shifting then turn the truck off with the key switch, move the selector back into park and restart then shift again. Do not place it in neutral again!
Most likely your drive shaft is bad because the bearing is open to elements. You can have it looked at by a drive line rebuilder and see if they can replace just the end, and the U-Joint while your at it on the other side, or swap to another from a junker. Of course a new one should last you a long time. As for the the newer style in the link you posted, I'm not sure where he got it, but it is a better design.
Thread Starter
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Rookie
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: California
Hydra,
Thank you for your reply. After the aborted attempt to drive I did some more searching and found the bit about putting it in 4hi. I've decided to just wait, hopefully I haven’t damaged anything. I ordered a new CV joint rebuild kit from partsgeek.com for $100, figured I could rebuild it twice for the cost of one new shaft. It looks pretty straight forward on rebuilding it. Just need to get a gear puller to get it apart. I’ll let you know if it all works out and it fixes the original problem of the clicking noise.
Thanks again for all your help.
Thank you for your reply. After the aborted attempt to drive I did some more searching and found the bit about putting it in 4hi. I've decided to just wait, hopefully I haven’t damaged anything. I ordered a new CV joint rebuild kit from partsgeek.com for $100, figured I could rebuild it twice for the cost of one new shaft. It looks pretty straight forward on rebuilding it. Just need to get a gear puller to get it apart. I’ll let you know if it all works out and it fixes the original problem of the clicking noise.
Thanks again for all your help.
Amateur
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 46
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Clicking / Scraping noise while in 4 WD ONLY
Hi, I am new to this forum, which is a great idea, and sounds like I may have the same problem with a 2002 4.7 Durango with an electronic solenoid shifter for 4 WD. Today, while on the beach, I noticed clicking to a scraping noise coming from the underneath center of the vehicle in front of the fire wall area as my speed increased while in 4 WD. I had just recently changed the oil in both differentials and the transfer case and noticed all gearing looked good, except could not view trans case. Puzzling though, the noise was not audible while in reverse; I had to back off the beach to be safe. Now the noise is also in reverse just not as loud. Any suggestions such as the transfer case chain being the issue?
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Rookie
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: California
Check the boot around the CV joint on the front drive shaft at the transfer case. If it is damaged it is probably the CV joint. My boot was all but gone and no grease was left. You can replace the shaft with a U joint instead of a CV joint or replace tha CV joint. I just finished replacing the CV joint (got the part at Partsgeek.com $100) and the noise is gone and no vibration. Yay me!!
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
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Repaired drive shaft noise
What about this:
Before I heard the clicking sound I had driven on a wet canal bank (Central Ca.) and lost traction. Put it in 4hi and then tried to go 4 low, it was extremely muddy. I didn't put the D in neutral before going to 4 low and when I went to go back into 4 hi I noticed the light on 4 low was blinking (tells me it never went into 4 low correct?). After getting back on the pavement, I switched back to 4 hi then back to normal. After all the mud had flung off etc I noticed the clicking. Could I have F up my transfer case and how can I check it?
Before I heard the clicking sound I had driven on a wet canal bank (Central Ca.) and lost traction. Put it in 4hi and then tried to go 4 low, it was extremely muddy. I didn't put the D in neutral before going to 4 low and when I went to go back into 4 hi I noticed the light on 4 low was blinking (tells me it never went into 4 low correct?). After getting back on the pavement, I switched back to 4 hi then back to normal. After all the mud had flung off etc I noticed the clicking. Could I have F up my transfer case and how can I check it?
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
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Front undercarriage noise.
Check your front drive shaft. After replacing the rear u-joint I noticed the noise kept getting worse. I then went and decided to replace the front shaft u-joint. The shaft part that goes into the transfer case did not have it's rubber cover which protects from dirt or water from entering the bearings. Apperently dirt and water rusted the bearing and wore out the shaft causeing the noise everone hears. After replacing the shaft which cost $375. "The whole shaft including the front ball joints." The nosie was never heard again.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Check your front drive shaft. After replacing the rear u-joint I noticed the noise kept getting worse. I then went and decided to replace the front shaft u-joint. The shaft part that goes into the transfer case did not have it's rubber cover which protects from dirt or water from entering the bearings. Apperently dirt and water rusted the bearing and wore out the shaft causeing the noise everone hears. After replacing the shaft which cost $375. "The whole shaft including the front ball joints." The nosie was never heard again.