Usually just before turning it off it's just over 50% charge, and when I go to start it's just over 25%. So you could say there's about 25% difference.

I also tried shutting off radio/ A/C and anything else like lights, etc when I go to start it, this still gives me the same battery level.

 

You go from a 14.4 volt system when running to a load on the battery because the ignition is on yet there is no power being furnished to the battery, so being that you are now taking voltage and amperage from the battery then it will put a drain on it and will show in the gauge face. You would have to test the voltage between the battery posts with a multi-meter before any load is placed on it and it is fully charged, then read the output.

A full brand new battery is only 12.7 volts, so see there is a difference between running voltage on the battery and sitting voltage. This can explain what you are seeing.

One thing you could do is pop the solenoid and see if it cranks, but it is an old trick and somewhat dangerous because of the amp's can burn you or seriously hurt you, which is never advised unless you know what your doing and even then is not advised.

You can also check for voltage at the switch and after to see if there is a fuse link burned or burned wire some where.

 

It was hard starting this morning. I think my battery may be the issue (after all, I'm pretty sure it's the original battery...). If that's not it, it's my starter.

I'm caving and taking it to the shop, only to have a friend look at it and tell me what's wrong so I don't have to spend $300 on parts I don't need. I can't afford the labor plus, I can put the parts in! I just need the doc's diagnosis.

I'm going to fix my windows as well, and a few other minor things like a dent on my front driver side qp. It's going in sometime next week (thursday?), after which I will post here to let everyone know how things went, and if I have questions about how to do certain things.

I really do appreciate everyone's help (especially the very involved hydra). It will be much easier having someone look at it in person to figure out my issue though :P

Thanks a lot guys! I'll post results asap.

 

This morning I hopped in and jiggled my key to check and see if any other codes had come up...

Turns out I got P 0513, which, as I recall, means it's my key. Probably my chip. I've read that if I disconnect my neg terminal on the battery this'll reset my ECM and may fix the problem. Should this work?


This could explain why it won't start. Also, since we only have 1 other key for it (which I haven't tried, and is currently 100 miles away), how much will a new key cost if this doesn't fix it?

 

So, I checked the codes again today (still no signs of it running correctly AS-IS) and P 0513 is gone, meaning it recognizes my key again, BUT now I'm getting another evap code, P 0442. So currently it's returning P 0456 and P 0442. I know they're both evap leaks and I don't think they're causing my problems... but what the dickens is going on?!

 

Fix the codes. Vacuum leaks can cause some headache and havoc

 

Alright. I know 442 is a slow leak, and 456 means the module detected a leak so it should only be one leak causing the issue. I don't think that's causing my problems with the ignition... but could it?

 

It's a separate problem than your ignition

 

That's what I figured. I'm going to try an ignition switch later this week if there's time, and if that doesn't fix it I'll guess it's my key.

 

I still think its the ignition switch myself.