1998 dodge durango 5.2l
Hello to everyone. This forum I know is a good source for information and I used it for referrences. I have a 1998 Dodge Durnago 5.2L, 318 engine, 4WD. My engine has seized and I tried manually cranking the bolt on the crankshaft pulley (32mm socket wrench with a long handle for leverage), the engine will not turn. Both cylinder heads are removed, water pump, radiator, air con, alternator and power steering included. My question is what is the easiest way to remove the engine? Since I cannot manually turn the engine to remove the bolts in the flywheel in order to separate the engine from the transmission, DO I HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENGINE TOGETHER WITH THE TRANSMISSION? The access plate that covers the bell housing in order to remove the bolts is design as one piece with the engine support bracket. I have read in this forum that the best way to remove the engine is pulling the engine out to the front. Meaning removing the bumper, condenser and braces. Any suggestion to make life easier? Thank you.
Don't look into the inspection (dust cover) to remove your trans to the engine, instead focus on the bell housing bolts on the outside. Now that you have the top off the motor just remove the bell housing bolts, suspension bolts, and engine mount bolts, and pull the engine from the front.
Thank you Hydrashocker for your advise. So even with a engine that is froozen, it can be taken off the car and leaving the transmission and torque converter in the car? This is good news since I do not have to remove the engine and transmission at the same time. Will keep you posted.
I have decided to replace the transmission as well as the engine, so I will pull them out together. Would it be easier to go ahead and remove the bumper, move the condenser out of the way and come out the front or let the load leveler handle the tilting and come out of the top?
After soaking each cylinder with WD 40 Penetrate over the weekend, I am able to manually crank the engine today. So I am now deciding whether to remove the engine or start assembling the cylinder heads together.
if your engine has ceased up chances are that the piston rings are fried, and your going to have compression issues.
so befor you assemble the whole engine reinstall your cylinder heads with the appropriate head gasket, and torque it to spec and in the appropreate order, and have the compression on all 8 cylinders tested. if your able to hold more than 100 psi in each cylinder it would be safe to say that you can install the rest of the engine.
you may want to drop the oil pan to check for metal chunks and to replace the oil pump if needed.
you might have to replace some sensors and possibly the oil pump, also i would get the coolant system flushed and get the oil system flushed as well, as you may have some debris or cloggs in your system.
also why did the motor cease up in the first place? because you may have done irreversible damage to some other parts that may need to be replaced.
so befor you assemble the whole engine reinstall your cylinder heads with the appropriate head gasket, and torque it to spec and in the appropreate order, and have the compression on all 8 cylinders tested. if your able to hold more than 100 psi in each cylinder it would be safe to say that you can install the rest of the engine.
you may want to drop the oil pan to check for metal chunks and to replace the oil pump if needed.
you might have to replace some sensors and possibly the oil pump, also i would get the coolant system flushed and get the oil system flushed as well, as you may have some debris or cloggs in your system.
also why did the motor cease up in the first place? because you may have done irreversible damage to some other parts that may need to be replaced.
Last edited by krupaeric; Oct 31, 2012 at 01:23 AM.
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Hi krupaeric,
I have spoken too soon. After manually cranking the engine twice 360, I noticed that piston number two did not stroke up and down while the rest of seven piston did. So now I have to remove the engine. I have finally removed all bolts attaching the bellhousing to the engine, bolts attaching the engine support bracket to the engine, front bumper, condenser and front framing support. I am ready to pull out the engine. My question is will the torque converter come out with the engine or does it remain with the bell housing. Thank you in advance
I have spoken too soon. After manually cranking the engine twice 360, I noticed that piston number two did not stroke up and down while the rest of seven piston did. So now I have to remove the engine. I have finally removed all bolts attaching the bellhousing to the engine, bolts attaching the engine support bracket to the engine, front bumper, condenser and front framing support. I am ready to pull out the engine. My question is will the torque converter come out with the engine or does it remain with the bell housing. Thank you in advance
Yes, If you don't unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel then it will come out with the motor,, Besure when you pull the motor then pull it to the front a couple inches after you get it high enough over the motor mount brackets,, An make sure the trans is blocked up so it won't drop when pulling the motor out,,
Hi, the inspection plate when it is not present allows one to remove the bolts attached to the torque converter. However this inspection plate is sandwich inbetween left and right engine support plate that makes if very dificult to remove the inspection plate. Is it alright to remove engine together with torque converter?







