Mine has never stalled like that, well except after jump starting it but it is so much more aggressive at points than it was before and it had a battery maintainer on it. Maybe it needs a break in period. How ever I watched a video on adjusting the bands during the rebuild. The guy over tightened the bands because he said they stretch and if that's not done they need an adjustment shortly after rebuild. Well I didn't over tighten them so I'll re-adjust when I do test the pressures.


I doubt its the map sensor. The tach is bouncing as the tranny slips. It is very hard to tell in the video.

 

Ok I'm thoroughly pissed off now. Pressures are spot on and I just double checked the rear band adjustment, what else it left? I really, really, really don't want too have to pull this back out. I have to have this done enough to have a windshield put in cause the body shop at the dealership I work at is closing permanently at the end of the month.

 

So looking at the FSM all the clutch packs involved with reverse, front and direct clutches, are involved in the other forward gears leading me to believe its not a clutch pack issue since they forward gears do not slip even under WOT. Direct is involved with manual 1 & 2 and D 1,2,3. The front is involved with 3rd and 4th. Since none of these forward gears slip it leads me to believe I have a servo issue. I put in a new upgraded servo, this one. Now I read that I the rear servo should be shimmed and my shift kit came with shims but said to use on performance or race. I put in a shim even though though I used the towing settings......could this be an issue? I did get a new lip seal and stabilizer ring kit for that servo since I accidentally broke the original stabilizer ring before trying to install it I still have the old servo sitting on the shelf also.

 

I think I would put the factory servo back in the transmission. But here is some added information for everyone.


TEST CONDITION

INDICATION

Line pressure OK during any one test Pump and regulator valve OK
Line pressure OK in R but low in D, 2, 1 Leakage in rear clutch area (seal rings, clutch seals)
Pressure low in D Fourth Gear Range Overdrive clutch piston seal, or check ball problem
Pressure OK in 1, 2 but low in D3 and R Leakage in front clutch area
Pressure OK in 2 but low in R and 1 Leakage in rear servo
Front servo pressure low in 2 Leakage in servo; broken servo ring or cracked servo piston
Pressure low in all positions Clogged filter, stuck regulator valve, worn or faulty pump, low oil level
Governor pressure too high at idle speed Governor pressure solenoid valve system fault. Refer to diagnostic book.
Governor pressure low at all mph figures Faulty governor pressure solenoid, transmission control module, or governor pressure sensor
Lubrication pressure low at all throttle positions Clogged fluid cooler or lines, seal rings leaking, worn pump bushings, pump, clutch retainer, or clogged filter.
Line pressure high Output shaft plugged, sticky regulator valve
Line pressure low Sticky regulator valve, clogged filter, worn pump

 

Ok I will try the old servo again. Can I do that with out dropping the valve or taking off the O/D unit?

 

So I'm in the process of doing this. One thing I noticed is that the arm for the reverse servo is loose and resting on the retaining ring that hold everything in with the snap ring. The arm is not contacting the servo in the resting position like the front is. I'm just wondering if I have to remove the O/D unit to get that pin out because it really looks like I do.

 

So here is what I'm going to try per advice from master tech. "If you get the strut out and move the band a little, you can sneak the servo out. If you want to remove the pin, yes you need to remove the o/d unit." I'll keep you guys updated when I can. Hopefully this is done wed. night, I have class for 3hrs tonight otherwise I'd do it today.

 

So I didn't get the servo out but now the arm is seated right and everything seems to be in order as far as the band/servo are concerned. So I put the valve body in and air test the reverse servo. It moves fine and seems to function correctly except air and fluid shot out from around the manual valve (what the shift lever moves). Test drove it and still slips in reverse when warm but the stalling issue is gone. So I'm going to put the factory manual valve back in, I have one in there that allows converter charge in park but I may have to compromise.

 

Here we go some more, this has to be a valve body issue. Today I had to drive it to work because of getting a windshield in (no it couldn't be postponed long story....). So I drove it to class then to work. By the 7th mile on my way to work it started to struggle down shifting coming to stops. Then about 1 mile from work I had to manually shift it to 1 to get it to move. I get to work and as my friend it going to pull it in D it moves 10ft and pops out of gear. Told him to put it in 1 and it moved fine. I'm at a loss as to the issue here, hoping master tech chimes in some more. He's been such a help in this but dang I'm asking a lot.......

 

Sorry to here your going through a nightmare as well. It sure does sound like a valve body issue to me. Perhaps one of the seals has failed or something.