headlights are STILL flashing
#21
After reading the thread. It looks like you got the electrical covered. (fuses, relays). Does the headlight flashes with the truck idle (not moving?) If so, it may not be wiring related.
You said you replaced the CTM module with a new one? Did you do as Shrp requested by reflashing the CTM? This may need to be done from the OEM dealership.
Another question, did the flashing headlight issue occurred before or after the CTM replacement? This question may be a invalid question if you have not flashed your CTM module from the dealership yet.
My guess on your flashing lights issue may be CTM related as I know the CTM controls the security system of your truck if it had one. it is possible the flashing headlights may be due to a faulty or improperly configured CTM.
You said you replaced the CTM module with a new one? Did you do as Shrp requested by reflashing the CTM? This may need to be done from the OEM dealership.
Another question, did the flashing headlight issue occurred before or after the CTM replacement? This question may be a invalid question if you have not flashed your CTM module from the dealership yet.
My guess on your flashing lights issue may be CTM related as I know the CTM controls the security system of your truck if it had one. it is possible the flashing headlights may be due to a faulty or improperly configured CTM.
#23
O boy this is a tough one...both headlights turn off for 2-3secs than come back on than flash again 20sec later. The interval is different though from the last flash....its the same symptoms people have when there headlight switch is bad.
#24
That makes me lean towards the CTM not being the issue here. I suppose it could be possible that your new headlight switch could be having issues too. If you wanted to rule that out you could look at the wiring diagram for the headlight switch connector in the FSMs (over in the diy section) and then jump the pins that the switch connects to turn on the headlights. If they don't flash like they did before you'll know the switch is the problem.
#25
That makes me lean towards the CTM not being the issue here. I suppose it could be possible that your new headlight switch could be having issues too. If you wanted to rule that out you could look at the wiring diagram for the headlight switch connector in the FSMs (over in the diy section) and then jump the pins that the switch connects to turn on the headlights. If they don't flash like they did before you'll know the switch is the problem.
Last edited by hemi_newman; 07-18-2013 at 07:04 AM.
#26
There is nothing for your head lights in the electrical panel inside the cab of the truck on the dash.
You need to look in the PDC (Power Distribution Panel) under the hood driver’s side against the fire wall (above the tire). If you flip over the cover there is a display label that marks what each relay or fuse is. You will be looking for a fuse not a relay, at least at first.
The one you’re looking for is marked:
F/L 2
HDLP
It should be in the center string, second larger square fuse up from the string of small fuses. It should be a 40 AMP and I think Green in color. Swap this fuse with another one of the same rating and when placing it in move it up and down a few times just in case there is a little corrosion on the connections.
Next move to the upper right part of the panel and there are 2 relays there. FOG LP1 and FOG LP2, I want you to swap these to with different relays of the same part number.
As for a voltage regulator. No there is no voltage regulator in the alternator. There are diodes that keep it in check however and they can test those, but the voltage regulator is in the PCM (computer) and I don't think the headlights are even incorporated on a regulated circuit.
What you are describing is a grounding issue, or positive power issue, (Bad connection), just got to figure out where it is. Clean all your connections at the battery and the PDC as well.
You need to look in the PDC (Power Distribution Panel) under the hood driver’s side against the fire wall (above the tire). If you flip over the cover there is a display label that marks what each relay or fuse is. You will be looking for a fuse not a relay, at least at first.
The one you’re looking for is marked:
F/L 2
HDLP
It should be in the center string, second larger square fuse up from the string of small fuses. It should be a 40 AMP and I think Green in color. Swap this fuse with another one of the same rating and when placing it in move it up and down a few times just in case there is a little corrosion on the connections.
Next move to the upper right part of the panel and there are 2 relays there. FOG LP1 and FOG LP2, I want you to swap these to with different relays of the same part number.
As for a voltage regulator. No there is no voltage regulator in the alternator. There are diodes that keep it in check however and they can test those, but the voltage regulator is in the PCM (computer) and I don't think the headlights are even incorporated on a regulated circuit.
What you are describing is a grounding issue, or positive power issue, (Bad connection), just got to figure out where it is. Clean all your connections at the battery and the PDC as well.
#27
There is nothing for your head lights in the electrical panel inside the cab of the truck on the dash.
You need to look in the PDC (Power Distribution Panel) under the hood driver’s side against the fire wall (above the tire). If you flip over the cover there is a display label that marks what each relay or fuse is. You will be looking for a fuse not a relay, at least at first.
The one you’re looking for is marked:
F/L 2
HDLP
It should be in the center string, second larger square fuse up from the string of small fuses. It should be a 40 AMP and I think Green in color. Swap this fuse with another one of the same rating and when placing it in move it up and down a few times just in case there is a little corrosion on the connections.
Next move to the upper right part of the panel and there are 2 relays there. FOG LP1 and FOG LP2, I want you to swap these to with different relays of the same part number.
As for a voltage regulator. No there is no voltage regulator in the alternator. There are diodes that keep it in check however and they can test those, but the voltage regulator is in the PCM (computer) and I don't think the headlights are even incorporated on a regulated circuit.
What you are describing is a grounding issue, or positive power issue, (Bad connection), just got to figure out where it is. Clean all your connections at the battery and the PDC as well.
You need to look in the PDC (Power Distribution Panel) under the hood driver’s side against the fire wall (above the tire). If you flip over the cover there is a display label that marks what each relay or fuse is. You will be looking for a fuse not a relay, at least at first.
The one you’re looking for is marked:
F/L 2
HDLP
It should be in the center string, second larger square fuse up from the string of small fuses. It should be a 40 AMP and I think Green in color. Swap this fuse with another one of the same rating and when placing it in move it up and down a few times just in case there is a little corrosion on the connections.
Next move to the upper right part of the panel and there are 2 relays there. FOG LP1 and FOG LP2, I want you to swap these to with different relays of the same part number.
As for a voltage regulator. No there is no voltage regulator in the alternator. There are diodes that keep it in check however and they can test those, but the voltage regulator is in the PCM (computer) and I don't think the headlights are even incorporated on a regulated circuit.
What you are describing is a grounding issue, or positive power issue, (Bad connection), just got to figure out where it is. Clean all your connections at the battery and the PDC as well.
#28
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