Hey guys, 1st and foremost thanks for the help over the years.
While trying to flush the system, the Chilton manual said to remove the thermostat, and in the process both bolts sheared off flush with the thermostat housing. I tried drilling them out, to no avail. I broke 2 drill bits, and in the lower right one (see pics) the hardened steel extractor broke flush as well, so now I am really starting to run out of options.
1. I am thinking of either sawing the jaws off a couple of 6-8" C clamps and
using the threaded rod to push down on the neck piece as shown in the sketch, but i don't know if it will be a good enough hold.
2. If # 1 works temporarily, i can bring it to my friend's shop to possibly weld
small sections of threaded rod at the housing thus deviating from the original design of bolts going into the engine cover, to having threaded rod coming out and using nuts to keep the neck piece on tight, but I don't kow if the head is cast iron, or aluminum and if i can weld threaded rod on it.
OR # 3, i was thinking of taking off the engine cover completely, and replacing it with a new/used one, since the holes are in the housing, I can just use 2 brand new bolts. Does anyone know if the housing or the thermostat is part of the engine cover or is it part of the block, I cant see since the alternator and the ac compressor are on top of everything.
Please help weigh in your opinions, since no mechanics want to mess around with taking out the bolts, including my friend. I told him, and the guy at Sears, that i would pay the hourly labor rate for whatever it took to do it, but i think they would much rather spend that time to do brakes etc. for other cars and charge a few hundred bucks/ car, than spend all that time in one car, not to mention it's not fun.

 

What I'd do is drill a hole in the middle of the sheared bolts, then tap them with left hand threads then run a left hand thread bolt down until it hits the bottom and it should wind it out.

 

That_guy, at this point i have managed to drill a hole on one of them, which is off center, and the bolt still didn't come out, and in the other bolt, i was doing the same thing when the hardened steel extractor broke inside, flush with the housing.
I don't think i can drill the extractor out, since it is harder than the drill bits, plus if i was to tap the hole, there is no room for the T-shaped handle wrench that comes with the tap dies so I can thread it. And I was very surprised that there were no extensions in the market that would fit in the square head of the taps, and in a ratchet. The small size extractors & tap heads were too small to fit snug in the square key of the small ratchets.

 

Use an easy out or just drill out the bolt. Then get a heli-coil kit with taps to recreated the hole. I had to do the this with one of mine. Just keep in mind when tapping the holes to do the starting tap then finishing tap. If you break off the finishing tap or any tap it is a major PITA that is why they have a starting tap.

 

Here is the fix. I left the broken bolts alone, used angle iron, cut it, drilled, fixed to engine head and alternator bracket, Used 5/8" x 6" bolts to press it down, and filed the tip of the bolts so they would key in the bolts holes of the new neck piece, so the bolts don't walk from the vibration of the engine, made my own gasket from 1/8" thick plumbers red rubber gasket (they are used in steam application) drove it around for two days, so far so good. Please see pics.
Thanks to all who read the thread, and replied.

 

It looks like that'll do the trick for now.

 

Watch that inside bolt-hole,drill too far and you'll go right inside that water jacket.
Had mine snapped off the inside and it leaked bad through that hole.
Eventually just took the whole manifold off and just threw a junkyard manifold on it.
Was a big pita,although then the front manifold bolt snapped as well,so had to drill that one out and re tap it,nothings ever easy with this truck.

 

Yup, swap in a good used (or go for an upgrade! Vroom!). Yours is pretty much screwed up.

If you have the manifold in your hand, there are places that service machine shops to remove broken taps. A shop will have a LOT of hours of work/machining into some part, then someone accidentally breaks a tap on the final prep work for it. The shop takes it to a place that lasers it out.

 

Several videos on youtube for mig welding smaller nuts to broken bolt / studs for removal.
Also could try a good penetrating oil and a hi speed (air is best) engraver to "jackhammer" the bolt out.
Easy outs need to be centered in the broken stud and sized correctly for best results.
If they break sometimes they can be chipped out in small pieces with a center punch. Got to be lucky.

 

Dropped a thermostat housing bolt into motor if looking under hood it went to right of thermostat. I tried to grab it but pushed it farther and heard it drop. Someone told me to fish it out with magnet so i tried but magnet was too big, got lodged and came off stick and now i have lost bolt and a magnet stuck too. What to do?!!!! Help