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Water condensate from AC dropping on O2 sensor

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Water condensate from AC dropping on O2 sensor

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  #1  
Old 06-11-2018, 01:43 PM
djromann
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Default Water condensate from AC dropping on O2 sensor

Hello everybody!
2001 Durango 4.7 V8 SLT RWD
I've got this car back to life- changed cylinder heads, gaskets, water pump, fan clutch, efan, did a general tuneup and filled the AC system (still have to change the blower resistor with the melted harness). I noticed after stopping that specific sound when put a drop of water on the hot pan, every few seconds. Took a look over it and noticed that water was dropping onto the passenger side lower oxygen sensor (after catalytic converter). Drove it as is because for a couple of weeks and yesterday I've got the check engine light with p0161 code (2/2 O2 sensor heater). Pretty sure it's the water causing the issue, shouldn't it be a hose or something out there do direct the water from the cat? What can I do in this case?
Thank you!
 
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:56 AM
djromann
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I did some research and it looks like will have to remove the heatshield on the passanger side behind the exhaust manifold to access the AC drain and to install a piece of hose to direct the water away. Didn't do that yesterday, the car was hot, so I changed the rear differential oil (2 quarts of Mobil 1 75w90 with a 2oz bottle of limited slip additive. The main reason of doing that was the leaking rubber plug- the cover was oil wet, and to see exactly where does it drip from I went to a car wash, sprayed over some engine degreaser, let it soak for 10 mins, washed it and it was nice and dry. After a couple of days I noticed an oil wet mark around the rubber plug. The cover was set on silicone, so I cleaned it out with a blade plus wire brush and set it on gasket.
Most important though was to find some metal parts attached to the bottom magnet.
Is it safe ro drive it like that? Anybody had that kind of experience?
There is the pic of the parts and where supposedly they were coming from (big metal washers behund the side gears, on both sides).
 
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:57 AM
djromann
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:58 AM
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:38 PM
b1lk1
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Safe is a relative term. While I would not expect a catastrophic failure with that damage, it is possible. Those shims center the differential and keep gears aligned with the pinion. It will definitely wear out sooner than later, you could pull the pinion and replace the shims, that is what I would do.
 
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Old 06-13-2018, 02:42 PM
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Those are your ante slip clutch packs, and your clasps are broken. I did a write up on how to repair them in the DIY section. Check your ABS sensor on top the axle, when it broke on mine ot took it out and all the wiring webbed in my differential.
Differential
Rebuild For Trac-Lok Limited Slip Differential
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...c-lok-lsd.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...lp-please.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...n-my-diff.html
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X5001-CVSP.pdf
 

Last edited by hydrashocker; 06-13-2018 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 06-13-2018, 06:43 PM
djromann
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker View Post
Those are your ante slip clutch packs, and your clasps are broken. I did a write up on how to repair them in the DIY section. Check your ABS sensor on top the axle, when it broke on mine ot took it out and all the wiring webbed in my differential.
Thanks a lot for the info! Just finished to read the threads, also watched a few youtube videos on how to rebuild the diff and rear axles.

Daaaaamn... It was supposed to be an easy fixer/ training vehicle... Not sure what will do for the diff- I'm living in an apartment complex and I can perform some simple fixes but can't tear apart half of vehicle. I've got caught two weeks ago by the apts owner with the back jacked up, I was cleaning the inner side of rims and painting the drums and it went with a warning. It's my daily driver for now, almost finished (still have to fix a bull eye on the windshield, change the oil and oil pan gasket, fix the blower resistor with harness and perform some deep cleaning ).

Yesterday I polished the headlights and fog lights (400 grit, 800 grit, 2500 grit and engine clearcoat) and kinda figured out about the AC drain, I couldn't find any compatible hose to fit on the drain so I installed it with some strong duct tape, cleared the error and will see next days if the MIL will come back.

However I'm planning to do those easy fixes up to Friday 'cause I already dealt over for my wife an 2009 Journey v6 3.5l with overheating issues that will have to park at my only parking lot (hopefully I have a storage there with electrical plug), and have to fix the high voltage battery on my 2007 Prius (that purchase was basically against my will, but I needed two cars asap after mine and my wife's cars got badly rear-ended/ crushed/ totaled in two weeks range).
 
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Old 06-14-2018, 02:19 AM
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OK, wheel balance done, had cyclical vibration of the car- 40-50 seconds the car vibrates, then about 30 seconds doesn't, and the vibration was coming in "waves", usually on highway speeds, over 60mph. Will check on next days on the freeway, but I guess the guys at America's Tire do know their job really well, the car already drives smoother. A couple of weeks ago I did the wheel balance at another shop and I could still feel the vibration, when I came back was told that is not their fault, would be a suspension issue (yeah, sure, I had the same issue on my wife's Grand Caravan, cured by wheel balance).
Finally replaced the blower resistor and the melted harness (didn't use the crimped joints that the harness came with, soldered them directly, heatshrink them and taped with automotive tape), it was working only on 1 and 2 positions, now can enjoy real cold while driving in 90+ degrees under Californian sun.
Still have to change the oil, some detailing and to take a decision about the rear differential.
 
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