Not shifting 1-2 2-3 when warm.
#21
12-19-2018, 10:43 AM
#22
12-20-2018, 11:51 PM
Been driving for two days now and have bagged 145 miles during this time across the Las Vegas valley for work. Shifting is like butter to me. I don’t think I’ll adjust the tv cable. Kind have already grown to how the shift points are (1500-1800rpms while derping around). Haven’t really gone WOT yet..
Haven't had a chance to see what’s the ticking noise yet either. Seems like the sweet spot to hear it is about 800rpms, it’s not that loud, but loud enough to be heard inside with the door closed and windows up. Any pointers where to start looking? Somebody mentioned exhaust leak, not to sound dumb but where about do I go to verify this.
Another thing that I noticed, I don’t think it’s a big deal and I think it’s jist electrical related. It’s onky happened once but the check gauges light came on for a split second and noticed my oil gauge bottomed out and just came right back up to normal, didn’t notice any other changes. Oil levels is fine, getting darker tho so I need to change this with the amount of miles I’m driving. What’s everyone opinion on 10w-30? Recommendations on filters?
still haven't had had a chance to clear out the CEL codes. All codes are still the same. Will tackle it next day off.
And one last final thing.. 2100 rpms running at 70mph flat highway. Seems normal eh?
Haven't had a chance to see what’s the ticking noise yet either. Seems like the sweet spot to hear it is about 800rpms, it’s not that loud, but loud enough to be heard inside with the door closed and windows up. Any pointers where to start looking? Somebody mentioned exhaust leak, not to sound dumb but where about do I go to verify this.
Another thing that I noticed, I don’t think it’s a big deal and I think it’s jist electrical related. It’s onky happened once but the check gauges light came on for a split second and noticed my oil gauge bottomed out and just came right back up to normal, didn’t notice any other changes. Oil levels is fine, getting darker tho so I need to change this with the amount of miles I’m driving. What’s everyone opinion on 10w-30? Recommendations on filters?
still haven't had had a chance to clear out the CEL codes. All codes are still the same. Will tackle it next day off.
And one last final thing.. 2100 rpms running at 70mph flat highway. Seems normal eh?
#23
12-21-2018, 06:26 AM
THE ULTI-MOD
check your owners manual for oil weight, they have temperature ranges for 5w30 and 10w30(iirc), and a preferred weight (idr which is preferred in the 5.9). Oil filter, your probably fine as long as its not orange, but i prefer purolator personally.
2100rpm at 70 is normal? idk depends on your rear end gear ratio and tire size, if you have 3.92s with stock tires, then probably about right, if you have 3.55s then id say its a bit high.
on the ticking, you give us basically NOTHING to go off of, it must change speed/volume intensity over time, does it do it relative to vehicle speed? engine speed? ect ect, where does it seem to be coming from? does it make the noise in park? in drive? in nuetral? lots of options here.
on the oil pressure drop, either change the oil pressure sender or put a mechanical gauge on it, (id t in a mechanical gauge personally) but you need to be sure thats not actually dropping off if you want your engine to last. (there have been some rare occurances of oil pressure issues in the magnum engines, usually related to poor maintenance)
2100rpm at 70 is normal? idk depends on your rear end gear ratio and tire size, if you have 3.92s with stock tires, then probably about right, if you have 3.55s then id say its a bit high.
on the ticking, you give us basically NOTHING to go off of, it must change speed/volume intensity over time, does it do it relative to vehicle speed? engine speed? ect ect, where does it seem to be coming from? does it make the noise in park? in drive? in nuetral? lots of options here.
on the oil pressure drop, either change the oil pressure sender or put a mechanical gauge on it, (id t in a mechanical gauge personally) but you need to be sure thats not actually dropping off if you want your engine to last. (there have been some rare occurances of oil pressure issues in the magnum engines, usually related to poor maintenance)
#24
12-21-2018, 08:04 AM
I'd stick with 10w30 unless you live somewhere cold for the magnum engines.
A lot of the parts store oil pressure senders are complete ****. I replaced my original one with one from the parts store (might have been a standard part) while I had access when my intake was off, and within days it dropped down to zero then came back up. Put another one on (managed to break my original one) and it's been fine since.
A lot of the parts store oil pressure senders are complete ****. I replaced my original one with one from the parts store (might have been a standard part) while I had access when my intake was off, and within days it dropped down to zero then came back up. Put another one on (managed to break my original one) and it's been fine since.
#25
12-21-2018, 08:27 AM
I've always ran Mobil-1 in mine. 10W30 is recommended except in really cold weather. But my old girl seems to go through 10W30 a bit quicker with 265k on the clock, so I actually run 10W40 in it. I might receive some hate for that, but hey, it's worked for me. I buy the oil at walmart, it's the cheapest I've ever found it. Walmart also carries Mopar filters if you want one. Mopar mo-90 or something like that is the correct filter for ours.
#26
12-21-2018, 11:40 PM
So In between jobs I decided to replace the oil pressure sender from the only one AutoZone carried (damn $40 bucks!). And I didn’t see a difference.. Still drops all the way down every now and then and only, when I make a complete stop. Again, it only lasts for a second if that but it is, concerning me. Wishful thinking is just bad part from AutoZone... I have attached a picture of what the idiot gauge shows. It never moves, whether when flooring the gas, or in park, just stays the same. I have considered installing a separate gauge, which was recommended above, besides running wires(which I find very easy to do) where-a-bouts do I hook it up to? T splice at the sender?
Thanks for the reccomendations for the oil. Going to knock this out Sunday.
so while I was at AutoZone I decided to be lazy and have them clear out the CEL codes, the guy said one was on there he’s never seen before. It said Engine Too Cold? Didn’t get the code from him tho unfortunately. However, 30 miles of driving the normal codes I had before came up(P1740, P0711, P0713). Maybe the parts I installed from the junk yard were bad, but this transmission so far, shifts smooth as butter and overdrive works as well...
Thanks for the reccomendations for the oil. Going to knock this out Sunday.
so while I was at AutoZone I decided to be lazy and have them clear out the CEL codes, the guy said one was on there he’s never seen before. It said Engine Too Cold? Didn’t get the code from him tho unfortunately. However, 30 miles of driving the normal codes I had before came up(P1740, P0711, P0713). Maybe the parts I installed from the junk yard were bad, but this transmission so far, shifts smooth as butter and overdrive works as well...
#27
12-21-2018, 11:45 PM
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#30
12-22-2018, 11:40 PM
Got 5qts of valvoline 10w-30 and a mopar filter. Going to knock this out tomorrow. Will look into the mechanical gauge.
Yeah i knows shes dirty lol. It’s my work truck. I forgot to mention, damn these things sucks on gas! Then again, the guy I bought it from had 20’s. Just picked me up a set of stock 17” wheels for $100. Couldn’t beat it.
Yeah i knows shes dirty lol. It’s my work truck. I forgot to mention, damn these things sucks on gas! Then again, the guy I bought it from had 20’s. Just picked me up a set of stock 17” wheels for $100. Couldn’t beat it.