Yep. That should work. The trick with those plugs is to make sure they are good and TIGHT. (not to mention a clean hole to put it in......) Did you pressure test it after the install?

 

 

After basic service and adjusting bands available, this 230.000 miles 46RE shifts firm and smooth. I hear often that Dodge transmissions around my year are cheap and don't take a lot of abuse. I have tortured this one far beyond most, running full throttle for hours on end pulling 18ft 5000.00 lb trailer,"stabilizing hitch of coarse", and air bags on rear of Durango, through many desserts, mountain straining, stop and go. Two huge rollaway's and full of shop equipment in trailer.
I service it every 100.000 miles and went to 130.000 this time. Not much in the pan, some gooey.

Since a kid I drove nothing but Mopar's, old 727s, 904s, and now all the weird stuff they throw at us. In traffic or hilly areas, I always start out in second on selector and shift third when it needs it. I dont allow overdrive in town, unless a reasonable run ahead. If I'm going after an arrow, I go into second and get right with it, then shift third when I should. Another reason I hold second often is because if you going only 15 mph or so most Mopar autos shift up to third and beyond when you lay off the throttle, and have the selector in drive. That's where GM and Ford seem to have a slight advantage, where they stay in the lower gear like they know what's going on soon. Easier on brakes as well of coarse.

Had to relax the detent cable on this 99RE, and lengthen the cruise control cable, because it wanted to drop to 3rd and sometimes 2nd, on slight hilly freeway cruising,, which is ridicules, over rapping the engine, and taking all of your fuel. This 360 has the get him torque to maintain speeds on most hills without all the nonsense of shifting all the time, wearing stuff out. By the way I learned these RE transmissions will still kick down at slower speeds even if you take the detent cable off all together. I'm sure somebody understands why that is, right now I can only tell you what they do? Chrysler gear selectors always seem friendly to shift manually, where Ford and GM seems awkward,,and grossly locked into place, and there shifting doesn't behave in time when shifting manually. Like it's hurting it! Tranny rebuilders always tell me I'm doing the wrong actions, but honestly one perhaps had to race a bit during their life to understand what gear to be in, and what causes things to break. I doubt at 62 years old am I likely to change something that works for me.

 

TV cable just tells the trans how hard you are stepping on the go pedal. The harder you step on the pedal, the longer the trans will hold lower gears, and shifts will be firmer. (higher pressures allowed) PCM still regulates base pressure though, so, as you slow down, it will step drop gears when appropriate.

 

And having that cable badly out of adjustment can lead to excessive wear given that shifts under higher throttle will be happening slower due to lower pressure.

 

I'm very much in tune with how it responds by adjusting it, Trust I must have everything as close to perfection as possible, and yes I adjust the detent where it works the best. As you know, too tight will bang UP shift when throttle released at slow speeds, and drag shifts out too far also, when too tight. so it takes several attempts to get it absolutely correct. I just don''t seem to have trans problems like so many do, and I think it's because I know when there suppose to shift. I can't just put it in drive and go, not some of them.. I also don't think I explained myself well, when I mentioned the trans will still kick down even with the detent cable off, I found that odd cas pre PCMs wouldn't do that, as I'm certain you know.
They would be in third at 10 mph, with the cable detached, regardless being at full throttle. where these REs have some kind of, what I'll refer to as a back up kick down and it will still drag out the shifts ""without the cable attached"", It isn't right, because at higher speeds without the cable attached there is no kick down, that way. I'm suggesting there must be both working together on these, "the cable, and the PCM. As said before I can only tell you what it does, not why yet. But I will in time. I think It's time I tear one of these apart, so I can understand everything. Long day today, my back is going to kill me. It messes with my ability to communicate at times as well. Take care guy...

 

Honestly I think it's more down to how they're maintained than anything else. I can speak for mine since it's been in the immediate family since new, it's had regular trans fluid changes, and has been put in drive and just driven normally for over 200k miles now.

It's been a while since I've gone over the diagrams in the pcm, but the E at the end of the trans designation is for partial electrical control vs the H for the older hydraulically controlled ones that are more similar to the 904 and 727.

 

Man that Charger, and the Durango look good enough to eat. Beautiful blue truly stands out and not hideous like the red crap all these folks in this area suck up to. No camber caster on the Durango unless you change the upper arms, I guess, however the Dakota has a fairly rugged, to rugged arm system allowing you to move the upper arm for an alignment.
So tell me you already changed the Rango upper arms. I'm just lucky even with the suspension lift the c/caster is on, and these seem to like almost a zero tow, or I get wasted motion, and if it's towed out, woo take it back quick before you die. ! They don't like that either. Like a 16of inch in is where mine likes it with the 10/50/15s tires..

What motor in the Charger.