So you got a new head and used the old Cam? Looks like you're doing just fine there.

Closest I came to doing that type of work on this motor, was when I discovered a small HG leak back in 2016. I wasn't feeling all that work and $$$, so I fixed it "chemically." Hasn't lost a drop since, so If it failed today, I'd be happy to say I got my $20 worth.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...t-options.html

 

Man I hate when the weather keeps me from working on the Durango...I get myself in trouble on youtube....I found this today as a suggested video...now I want to do this to my valve covers:
Common sense has kicked in though, I need to get Red back on the road....maybe next time pick-n-pull has half price day I'll pick up a couple sets and polish them

 

Man, those are sharp when he gets done though! I can imagine those under my hood. Currently, I've got the plastic/composite valve covers so maybe I'll paint them when I dig into it.

 

I would use your phone and take some pictures of everything before you start taking things apart, that way if you forget where something goes you can refer back to the pictures.

 

Yeah, that's my habit... learned from hard times over the years.

 

Definitely a great idea...or like in my case, have a 2001 Durango in the drive way to refer to just in case . In a way the 2000 I'm working on is a Guinea pig of sorts as the '01 has a dropped valve seat at well...when it rains it pours lol

 

I replaced valve cover gaskets on two different 4.7l engines and it's not as bad as it looks during the initial inspection once the little things like wiring start moving out of the way.

I would suggest getting a tiny pick with a "J" shape point to disconnect the injector plugs from underneath where the actual tab snaps onto the injector. Hopefully that made sense, you'll understand when the stupid brittle red releases all break off. The pick will save your day if your truck was like mine.

Also, use bunjee cords to hold all the wiring up and away from the gaskets so you don't have to fight them. And LOOSEN THE BRAKE BOOSTER otherwise you'll want to kill yourself trying to do the driver side. There's 4 bolts by the brake pedal you take off and then the brake booster can be pushed out and wiggled around to give you the required room.
Also, I didn't have to disconnect the fuel line on mine. Just removed the safety tab thing and had room. But it sure wouldn't hurt to remove the line if you really want to.

 

Thanks for all the info. I'll be sure to refer back when I start.

Looking forward to seeing how things look under the valve cover as the previous owner wasn't too hot on the upkeep. The oil was barely registering on the tip of the dipstick and he hadn't checked it in the 36K he drove since it was last changed. The fact that there was still oil in it, was what convinced me to buy it (for cheap). My first oil drain back in 2013 looked like thick, slow-draining black oil, which had a heavy brown/bronze tint to it. Curious to see if things will be clean with the full syn I've been using ever since. That and I ran a 5 min motor flush through it at some point. Took note of the brake booster tip.

The pick thing makes sense. I've got a set from Harbor Freight. I'll probably spray some silicone on the plugs a few days before I start, maybe they'll slide easier vs break off. I've already washed the area and blow dried with a leaf blower.

Thanks again.

 

Give the boots a twist before trying to pull them. They will break loose if you are serious enough, and then come right off. There is even a specific set of pliers for just such an occasion.

 

How many miles did it have when you bought it? 300k miles is incredible especially with a service history (or lack there of) in this case with the previous owner hahaha