If you suspect the water pump needs to be replaced (i would do it anyway, just for the added peace of mind), another trick is to use a couple long bolts in the holes in the water pump pulley to keep it from spinning. The bolts may bend a bit, and may even crack the water pump when they lock against it, but, if you are replacing it, that wont be an issue. I typically go to Tractor Supply and get the gold colored grade 8 bolts, since they are a bit stronger. Autozone may even rent the tool to hold the water pump and keep it from turning. Its the second pic i sent. With you being in Harrisburg, Harrys in Hazelton or Allentown is over an hour from you, but, you cant beat their prices for you pull parts, and they are also open sundays. I am 3 hours from there, and when i need a bunch of parts, especially rust free body parts, i typically go there on a weekend. If you check their site, they have a price sheet on there, so you can get an idea ahead of time of what you will spend. https://www.wegotused.com/price-list/ That is the direct link to the parts price sheet.

 

Thanks for all these great tips on salvage yards. There's one near me in York PA called Eichelberger's U Pull It that seems to have a good rep. May be my first stop once I am ready to pull parts to work on this front end. I figure I can skip on body parts unless they are in great shape and focus just on what I need to get the Durango running assuming I can find a Dakota or Durango that matches, though some of these parts like radiator and water pump I am debating if I should be going used on. I dunno.

I gotcha on the ol buy, use and return on the wrench, I guess I really do only need to use it twice! And I can see that there's the pump turning behind the nut now as well and why I need to secure that. Good deal.

 

A radiator would depend on it's condition. The water pump though, as difficult it is to get to, I'd go new. As to body parts, since this is a project/beater, I wouldn't worry about paint matching body parts.I drove a red car with a green door and white hood for years. Nobody ever cut me off in traffic.

 

I wouldn't bother with a used radiator. The plastic end tanks get brittle and crack when they get old. Then you have a leak and risk overheating.

 

Well hello friends! I hope everyone is healthy and well. Nothing like a forced quarantine here in PA to get me going on this project again. With warm weather here, I am ready to make a run to the u-pull salvage yard and start getting some parts. I figure I will buy new on the radiator and condenser, probably new timing belt too, and see if I can't find a fan and clutch, maybe a water pump, to pull as well as any good body parts it's got while I am there.

Since this truck is old, I am hoping there might be a larger year range and selection somewhere I can pick from. For example, a red 2002 Dodge Dakota came in recently to a local yard. I'm wondering if there's a known range of years for the Durango and Dakota where these front end guts are interchangeable. If I can find a match, it would be worth the trip in and the day taking one apart to get kicking.

Is there any guidance to which models and years I can look for salvage without front end damage to match my smashed 2001 Durango?

 

Front end parts.....1997-2004 Dakota and 1997 - 2003 Durango. Now if you're looking for 4.7L models, 2000-2004 Dakotas and 2000-2003 Durango.

No timing belts on any Durango/Dakotas. All chains.

 

Exactly what I needed. You are super, super awesome.

Serpentine belt. That's what I need.

My first ever under the hood rebuild so bear with my dumb questions. But I'm really excited to get the parts and try and get it running again.

 

After long delays, and a visit to the pull yard, I’m back looking at this project after a year of the truck sitting still in my garage. Clutch fan needs to come off before rebuild. Still learning the ropes as a guy who never changed his own oil before but making progress. But I wanted to keep this thread informed.



Advance auto parts was kind enough to loan out the clutch wrench so here we go. I don’t care about the fan anymore so used a wood wedge and a sledgehammer. And...after days of deep creep even, the fan clutch nut just not moving. It doesn’t help that the wrench actually turns (like a stripped feel) on the clutch nut with force, either the wrench is 1mm big or the nut is too small, I’m debating if finding a way to put a rag or tape or something else over the nut will help that wrench snug up better, any ideas? Yes I know the wrench turn is counter clockwise.



For the parts to get the truck engine running, I figure here’s what I need at the cost for new generic :



Serpentine belt $20

Radiator $75

Radiator Fan $75

Radiator neck and cap $25

Fan blade $50

Fab clutch $25

Condenser (own one)



No body work pricing yet just what I think I need to get it running. I could junk hunt for some of this but I am thinking I just spend the $275? That said if the repair fails I am out $275. Speaking of, noticed this on one of the pulleys - can I leave that be or am I now also needing to replace this as well? I was hoping to stop at the fan clutch.



Latest photos, welcome any thoughts on the fan clutch removal, as I remain stuck, I think maybe the loaner wrench is a little worn?

 

Clutch and fan are off. Chalk up one for the good guys. If the serpentine belt pulley isn’t also dead due to the chip and minor thread damage I think I’m ready to build back out. Just need to decide if I want to go to the pull yard or just buy new. Pull yard wants $40 for a junk radiator and a new generic one is $75.

 

Quoting myself here...
The fan pulley is the pulley in your pic above. That stud sticking out is what I locked the channel lock against. Better photo of the pulley and the threaded bolt stud sticking out below. This is from when I did my water pump some years back. Remember to protect the pulley with something before gripping with channel lock....