might be easier to fix that part out, but if you part it out I can use a rust free driver's door and a lift gate...

 

The driver door and gate are starting to rust out...ironically same as yours. Other 3 doors are pretty good.

 

Will do, it would be nice to see under the hood and see what’s what. I imagine the power steering wouldn’t be tough to bypass with a couple cheap parts. Sure would be easier to drive it the 75 feet.

 

If you don't have a hitch, this won't help. However, if you can put a ball on the bumper and have something else with a hitch, "Mr. Thingie" will let you move your wheels.





You can both push and pull with this. About $40 to make when I built it.

 

Mr. Thingie rocks.

 

The kids husband is a SeeBee that may be finishing his hitch with the Navy soon. I have an idea for a lighter, more portable metal version I'm going to see if he can make. I live alone so I don't have to chase down someone to help move dead vehicles.

 

So I got the hood up, was not as tough as I thought. Just had to bend that one bar that got pushed into the radiator that was behind the bumper.

Took a bunch of pics though I am not sure how great they show the damage. Radiator pushed into the engine fan which damaged it pretty good, fan I guess is OK but it's tough to see. Engine oil looks low but dipstick shows some, not sure if a leak, brake fluid is fine. Engine coolant, washer fluid and power steering fluid totally empty. Pulled the 2 airbag fuses to be safe. If it's not a terrible amount of work (though I have no idea where to start) I would consider bypassing the radiator with the power steering enough to pull it into the garage if you guys think this isn't awful. Bear in mind I have never worked under a hood before but am a quick study and like a project. Let me know if I can provide some other angles, would love some thoughts. I imagine eventually my insurance company is going to want to pay this claim out so they will want me to decide salvage vs. keep.

 

Core support seems pretty straight. Maybe a slight bend at the latch where it torqued it down. Seems like a rad and ac condenser would get things back in order mechanically. Maybe a new shroud if the tabs are all broken. Then bumper and grille.

 

I agree, and I think this may be a fun way to learn how to work under the hood of a vehicle. Really my top concern now is the quickest way I can get power steering fluid flowing back into there long enough to drive it into the garage for about 30 seconds. I'll put down cardboard for the mess if it leaks, though I'd like to plug things up to the point where I can toss in some coolant and/or power steering to get it safely started and driven for a minute.

Anyone have any tips?

It looks like from that last 2 photos above that the main pipeline just came out of joint (not sure what that spring inside is for), can't tell if parts are missing there to reconnect that, on the left side I think it's just the washer fluid that's out...so really rather than have to try and muscle it into my garage off the street...just need to get her moving for a minute.

Radiator replacement videos look pretty straight forward anyway.

And hey I'll take that headlight still if you don't want it, Dodgevity. Let's see if we can resurrect this 'ol girl.

 

Your radiator and fan are toast. I'd pull them if possible. I would splice the upper and lower hoses with a pipe and see if I could fill it with water. This will keep the engine from getting a hot spot. If you're only running it for a minute or two, it'll absorb the heat in that amount of time. If the P.S. fluid is empty, don't fill it up. You'll have no power steering but you can muscle it a short distance. It'll just be stiff and slow. Take lot's of pictures as you dismantle it and use them as a guide to put it back together. Is the transmission cooler still intact? It'll pump itself dry fast and you won't move. There again, splice the cooling lines to keep pressure in there.