Yea. Its all in How they are maintained. When i got this one it had a two year old trans. And i dont know how they took care of it. Because the trans is already having issues with the solenoids an transducer wasn't wanting to shift right. Then would shift great for a week or months then back to not wanting to shift even after replacing governor which it threw a code for. I just need get to her breath life again and be on the road.

 

Lined up old gear dots pulled them off put the new timing chain and gears on put it back together, and still no start. Now i have it apart again dots syill line up at 6 o'clock amd 12 o'clock. What the hell is wrong with this thing. Old chain was loose not broken.

 

Dot to dot lined up with cap pulled im 180 turn motor by hand Until the rotor is pointing at cyl 1 then both Dots at 12. What am i missing here people. Have spark have fuel whats next

 

That is correct. Dot to dot, you are in the middle of the firing order. Why they chose to do it that way is beyond me. Chevy does the same thing......

Question becomes, are you getting ENOUGH fuel, or too much??

 

Hmmm...turn on some Polish folk music and you have Polka Dot music when you line the polka dots up. (Oompa, oompa, oompa )

Seriously, pull your drivers side valve cover and rotate the engine until both valves are closed. Pull the #1 spark plug and drop a long wooden dowel rod down the hole. This will tell you that the piston is at TDC. Now, pull the distributor cap and note the position of the rotor. Get some paper tags or wooden clothes pins and number them 1 through 8. Put each one on the corresponding plug wire. Now remove all the wires from the distributor cap. Reinstall the wires using the location of the rotor to start with #1 and follow the firing order. Be sure to use the correct rotation. What you are doing is getting all minor but critical things cleared up. It's like this;

The statement below is false.

The statement above is true.

You are breaking the cycle of thoughts running around in your head. I've cleared many a problem up by just going back to basics and starting over. Simple things like a distributor that got disturbed, plug wires crossed or the timing set for exhaust instead of compression. I've been working on equipment for 50+ years and still fall into an error trap occasionally. I've looked like a genius when I messed up in the first place.

 

I put a small extension down the number one plug hole. Watched it come up to tdc afew times. Lined lined at 6 and 12. Pulled dist. Cap and it was 180 out from cyl 1 turned the crankshaft until it was pointing at cyl 1 watched the extension come back to tdc. Did that the first go around or so i thought. Maybe i was on the exhaust stroke. Put it all back together. Crank no start. I know for sure all the plug wires were in the rite order. Tore it back down to the chain and just double checking every thing again. Will be pull the driver side valve cover tomorrow morning and going from there. Hoping i can get it to start tomorrow. Thanks for the input/info/tips

 

Driver side valve cover off. Number one valves up timing marks at 12 and 12 dist rotor painting to cyl 1. Every thing i went through thw first go around except... I had the timing marks at 12 and 6. When i put it back together the first time. Now if im to put it back together and try to start it as it is now everything ahould be right and it should crank and start instead of the good ol crank and never start. Am i right? By all rights?

 

Should work......

 

Started up and idled fine yesterday but sounded like it was sucking to much air when giving it gas. A good amount of sucking noise that wasn't normal through throttle body with intake off it. Now today the good old crank and no start again. Thinking im going to cut ties with this thing can't keep throwing money at it to sit in drive way like a pile of crap.

 

It started so you know the chain and such is right. Do you get the sucking noise with the intake ducting in place? It also acts as a silencer. I used to run an unsilenced air filter on my '54 Coronet with the 241 Hemi so I would get that WHOOOOMMMP noise when I kicked it down to pass. Do some basic trouble shooting to find the issue. If you're worried about the sucking sound, hook a vacuum gauge to it and see what it pulls. If you're pulling 15-17 inches of vacuum, it will slurp air. If it's a lot lower, you have a vacuum leak. The next time it won't start, shoot a shot of starting fluid into then throttle body. If it starts and runs a little before dying, you have a fuel related issue. If it still doesn't start, it's electrical.

I've gotten a bunch of cars through the years that someone got tired of putting money into and it turned out to be something simple. I had a 2001 Ram 2500 that the previous owner had replaced the fuel pump and thought he pawned it off on me because it kept dying. I was sitting at the back and filling out paperwork in the truck and heard a buzzing coming from the bed. The only mechanical things back there were the fuel pump and the rear ABS. Since I wasn't moving, it had to be the fuel pump. I swapped the fuel pump relay with the a/c relay and it went away. I bought a couple of new relays and never had an issue after that. A simple, cheap thing that he simply overlooked.