If you get close, you can see roller and brush marks. The Ford has rust outs I'll be fixing. I just had a few days of good weather to put the paint on so I painted it early. I've got patch panels for the rear wheel openings and I'll cut metal to weld in the little spots behind the rear wheels under the tail lights. I'm hoping to sell it and get, or trade it for a heavier truck. If I have to, I may sell the Dodge. I need a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. I just like the way the Dodge looks as well as it runs good. I've got a little work to do to the front end on the Dodge and it will be done.

The old black trck that shows up in some of my posts was painted every two years. I think the paint was what was holding it together by the end.

 

Does not apply to your make/model ... 95 Monte Carlo I had, flawless, ran perfectly for 6-7 years. Then, one day the PCM gave out, afterward, ($5) O-ring leaked backside of the engine and due to location, cylinder head would have to be removed, engine mounts removed to move engine forward to replace. Then, the window motor gave out. Then, radio, then, oil leak, then, then, then all within a year. So...Pulled up to Dayton Andrews Dodge in St. Pete, Aug. 2004, $4500 trade-in, drove off with 04 Quad Cab Dakota 4.7 with 10 miles. 18 years later with a hair under 100k miles, I'm finally having a cooling system issue. Did a few (distilled water) flushes, replaced the water pump, thermostat (Gates/OEM, Rock Auto) for under $100. Did the 50/50 refill, drove 2 miles, pegged hot, steam/mist coming from radiator leak. So, since this is the only issue I have ever had, I will keep, unless the day comes that reflects the Monte Carlo scenario. Then, I will pull up to the dealer...........................................

 

I recall replacing my thermostat and forgetting which direction it faced. Overheated that sucker pretty fast. That was a very short test drive. Lol

There is a CSF high capacity radiator that I recommend if u need one. (On my phone ATM) Also highly important to jack the front end as high as you can get it and set heater temp to full hot when burping the cooling system.

 

Yeah, I going to check, but I believe the way the thermo housing is (kinda shallow), you can only install one way. Also, the (mopar) replacement thermo does not have the tab like the original. After a few, figured out that it helps to clock the "little loose rivet looking thing", making sure it is centered in the radial cutout on the housing i.e. doesn't prevent it from popping up or down. I started a post regarding the radiator thing. In short, apparently, maybe most models, have the trans cooler intergrated within the radiator where as I have the model (towing package) with an external trans cooler. I'll check out the CSF.

 

Yeah, I going to check, but I believe the way the thermo housing is (kinda shallow), you can only install one way. Also, the (mopar) replacement thermo does not have the tab like the original. After a few, figured out that it helps to clock the "little loose rivet looking thing", making sure it is centered in the radial cutout on the housing i.e. doesn't prevent it from popping up or down. I started a post regarding the radiator thing. In short, apparently, maybe most models, have the trans cooler intergrated within the radiator where as I have the model (towing package) with an external trans cooler. I'll check out the CSF.

 

I am still driving my 00 R/T durango. 21 years and still going. Mileage only at 230k atm. Most parts on this rig has replaced. Only OEM parts left is the alternator, front ball joints, rack and pinion and engine itself. Transmission rebuilt two times. Just recently replaced the gearing on both front/rear differentials. $3k repair. Yip, it wasn't cheap. But both front/rear diff's are now completely brand new vs junk yard. Parts were most of the cost as they are hard to get for this model year.

Tires are beginning to be hard to find for 17 inch rims. The tires presently on my rig are Continental tires. Love them. So far, they are the most longest lasting tires. I may have to go to 20 inch custom rims if tires are no longer available for the 17 inch rims.

My front diff. The housing cracked so the entire diff was replaced. Found one at junkyard. But gearing in it was shot. whirl humming between 50-60 mph and can hear gear grinding noise at 15-25mph. Took my rig to 4 Wheel Parts as they specialize in SUV offroad suspensions, etc. They completely rebuild both my diff's. I did not want to wait til my rear diff has issues and then there are no parts to repair with. So both diff's rebuilt at same time.

Once I pay off the 3k bill, I will take my rig back to 4 Wheel parts to upgrade the brakes with bigger discs,etc. The 00 brakes sux. I heard the 03 models has upgraded brakes. This 00 truck has alot of brake fade when braking very hard. I have to at time pump the pedal a couple times to get the pads to really bite the discs and slow down the truck. scary. Already replaced the master cyl and did not resolve the fading issue. Later, replaced the vac booster and that seem to help alot. I think the rest is of this issue is, the brakes are just way under powered to stop this heavy truck.

I also was thinking should I just give up on my truck or not. But held on to it for over 21 years. Still drives great. Exterior/Interior still in excellent condition. No rust. My black paint still 2000 original and excellent shape. Just sentimental. I plan to one day get a Dodge 1500/2500 with diesel power so until then, this vehicle is my daily despite the high fuel prices. This 00 R/T REQUIRES PREMIUM FUEL!!!

 

Sweet looking rig, Kensai ^^^^^

Trust me, I was able to turn it the wrong way... if there is a way to F something up, I'll find it. LOL

I have the tow pkg too....




Maximum cooling radiator thread. You get the benefit of my extensive research.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-radiator.html


Here is the CSF on Amazon...

 

last fall, I had to replace the front diff on my 01 with 290-ish K miles. The front end (suspension) has been rebuilt, new rear springs, I've changed the rack, at 258k I put an engine in it (360) actually 2 engines within 6 miles.... you read that right. Along with the 1st engine I rebuilt the trans, and put in a new fuel pump "just because" I had no idea when (or if) they had been done before it was mine.
I did the front end in stages.... the ball joints got done (by me) before I had it a week, it had 214k on it when I got it back around 2013. and the uppers had been drilled out... so they'd been done before I got it, at least once. I dunno what brand was used before I got it. I jacked it up in the seller's driveway and saw that 3 of 4 were beyond "shot". I ain't any more, but was an alignment guy for ~20 years, and did lots of ball joints on Dakotas and Durangos "on the side" when they were a few years old. so that didn't scare me. I'm a fleet mechanic for the state.
Last fall just before we were getting ready to go on a camping trip (pulling my pop up with the Durango) the front end went out, started howling. I pretty much knew it, but I changed the front hub bearings because I knew "it had ben a while" since they had been done. I had done one side several years ago but I got a deal on genuine USA made Timkens, so I replaced them. I do all my own work, I also have my own 2 post lift at home.
Anyway I was ready to go to the U pull and get a front diff (Id have rather rebuilt the original but was in a time crunch) and I found a deal on one on Ebay of all places from LKQ and it happened to be at the closest LKQ to me, which is not quite an hour away. There were several from them on Ebay at the time, and cheaper than LKQ's own U pulls. meaning I wouldnt have to lay in gravel and pull the replacement. I got one with 127k miles and a 6 mo warranty, and I thought nothing of replacing that front diff. I did replace all 3 seals while I had it out. Said Durango has 293k on the body, and is my wife's daily driver, and grandkid hauler and camper puller.
This Durango came from the south when I got it, so isn't rotted out at all like the few of that series that are in my area, still on the road. My wife even says she don't like the newer series Durangos and I would so much rather have a 318 or a 360 vs a 4.7 or even a Hemi. She actually loves the thing. and with todays prices I could still get more than I originally paid for it today vs what I paid to buy it in 2013.
I added a set of Auto Meter gauges in a pod for oil pressure (I have never trusted the factory gauge on this one, it always read low even though a manual gauge said different) also put one in for water temp (a good old mechanical one) and the 3rd one for Trans temp.
The body has 293k on it like I said.... the short block has about 165k on it, the heads were brand spanking new EQ ones when I put it in, all gaskets and seals were replaced as was the timing chain when it went in (Edelbrock "true roller" double roller chain) and the trans has 35k on it since I dropped the engine in, and rebuilt the trans myself.
Granted I'm a fleet mechanic; I have made my living turning wrenches since the mid-late 80s..... NOBODY touches my vehicles but ME. I change oil every 4k, and look over everything. Always have. Only thing that gets farmed out is things like alignments (I miss being able to align my own "after hours" at work) and even at that, I'm standing over them telling them where I want camber, caster and toe set.... can't help that, having been "that guy" for so many others, for so long....
As long as the wife doesn't get tired of it, and it doesn't rot out into the ground..... the number showing on the odometer is just that/ a number. It was a $40k vehicle new, (I didn't pay near that) that $40k wont touch anything within 7-8 years old that is close to compatible, and Im allergic to payments.
Id like to find another Durango with a solid body and frame and "go thru" everything that it might need for that eventual day when this one does die....... if I don't revive it from the dead...... given the shape this body is in, Id put another engine in it if I had to.
Now if I had to pay someone to do all the maintenance on it, I might think different. I don't care what some "book" says it might be worth because it ain't for sale.
It blows my mind, how minor of a maintenance issue will make some people park a vehicle in the "back 40" or even junk one.
the only recurring headache with this one, is it eats a blower motor resistor once a year/ and a pigtail every other time, it seems. I have spares for those here, now.

 

and this one has had a radiator and condenser about 6-7 years ago, courtesy of Bambi. We were on our way to Houston (I live near Chicago) and hit a deer before we got out of Illinois. Durango only had around 220k miles then. I got it off the highway and cooled off at a gas station, right off the exit. We were about 3 miles from that exit when Bambi jumped out in front of me, so the heat gauge "just" started to lay over as we were on the exit ramp.
found an Oreillys 1/2 mile away, and replaced the radiator in the parking lot, then kept going. we were off the road for like 1-1/2 hours was all.
When we got home, I found a fender off of a Dakota that was same color even, and a grill and a headlight in a junkyard/ and bought a new condenser, and had it fixed (you can't tell I ever hit anything) in an afternoon.

 

Project update.....It and I'm not dead yet. Been dealing with some health issues since she went down...had to have emergency spinal decompression surgery end of May....Finally getting able to move around a bit...have to wait a bit longer to get off the 5# weight restriction but am planning on getting Silver going again

Steve