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2000 Durango 4.7L - AC compressor not engaging...disconnecting AC connector

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Old May 17, 2025 | 10:44 AM
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Question 2000 Durango 4.7L - AC compressor not engaging...disconnecting AC connector

Hi, I have a 2000 Durango 4.7L that I'm trying to diagnose why the AC compressor isn't coming on.

The Freon level, as measured from the low side, is about 30 psi. But the darn compressor still isn't kicking on. I can slowly turn the clutch and it will turn with a little resistance. I've measure voltage at the relay, and it's getting 12 volts. I've put in a relay tester in the AC relay slot and hit the tester's on button Still, the compressor isn't kicking on when the cabin is set to max AC and the low side is showing about 30psi.

There isn't a check engine light on.

I want to verify the connection at the AC compressor is getting power, but I can't get the darn electrical connector off. I've pushed the darn red tab to both left and right and still can't the pry the connector off.

Any ideas on how to get the electrical connector off, or about this issue? Thanks.



 
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Old May 17, 2025 | 11:15 AM
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Push IN on the connector, completely remove the little red tab, I think you need to press down on the part sticking out the other end as well, you know, the one that looks like it is broke?
 
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Old May 17, 2025 | 11:41 AM
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Lol thanks I'll try that.

The reason I'm checking power to the AC Compressor is because I like to try and find the real issue, not just through parts at a problem.
 
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Old May 17, 2025 | 03:47 PM
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If you jump the relay, does the compressor run?
 
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Old May 18, 2025 | 03:22 PM
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Unfortunately, it doesn't come on with the relay jumpered, which I find weird.

So, I have to remove the entire red rectangular clip?
 
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Old May 18, 2025 | 05:25 PM
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Theoretically, you don't "Have to".... I just find it easier that way.

Might be able to bypass that whole schtick, and probe the wire directly as well..... But, if you jumper the relay, and the compressor doesn't run, that is just not a good sign.
 
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Old May 18, 2025 | 11:15 PM
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Red tab should be out, not necessarily removed. You might need to spray a little silicone into the switch and remove it with pliers. Sometimes things get stuck. It's why after any plug removal, I coat it with dielectric grease. You might have a bad clutch. I replaced mine with the compressor still on.
 
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Old May 20, 2025 | 08:12 PM
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Thanks for the replies- and I just decided to tap right into the wires right after the electrical connector.

Ok, so with the Durango running and set on max AC, and my AC relay tester switch set to "on", I'm getting 13.3 volts DC at the wires going into the A/C compressor. This sounds like the car is trying to turn it on, but the A/C compressor/clutch is shot.

Agree?
 
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Old May 20, 2025 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Aug
Thanks for the replies- and I just decided to tap right into the wires right after the electrical connector.

Ok, so with the Durango running and set on max AC, and my AC relay tester switch set to "on", I'm getting 13.3 volts DC at the wires going into the A/C compressor. This sounds like the car is trying to turn it on, but the A/C compressor/clutch is shot.

Agree?
Test the ground wire for continuity to ground. If that tests good, time for a new compressor clutch.
 
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Old May 22, 2025 | 05:50 PM
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Not sure which ground wire you're referencing? I had my multimeter hooked up to both the power wire and negative ground wire leading up to the compressor. Wait, I forgot to mention that I cut the wires altogether instead of tapping into them. Right now, the AC compressor wiring is isolated all together from the electrical circuit.
 
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