the .044 that hydra ran was for a very well built up engine, for a STOCK engine .040 is the proper gap to run.

if you dont believe me pm hydra about his engine build and you will see that .040 is the stock gap and his .044 is ONLY to be used on high performance engines.

 

Oh! Thanks, I didn't realize that. I guess I will have to fix that once I get back in town. Wont be till Thursday afternoon. I should be ok till then you think? Appreciate the info shrpshtr.

 

You will be fine till then and even longer probably. Just for the correct gap and running conditions, use .040.

IndyD

 

Thanks for everything. Appreciate it!

 

OK so back on topic of the TPS. My 2000 is idling right but whenever I drive it and let off of the gas to slow down the the rpms drop below an idle and then dies. Could this also be due in part to the TPS needing replaced? Or is there something else I may want to get?

 

Dead/Dying battery perhaps.

 

I can't leave this gapping issue... You guys don't honestly think the average shade-tree mechanic is going to be precise enough to hit exactly .040, do you? Think about the tools they are using; those round gapping tools are not even that precise. Besides, how many people know how to use the damn things... do you measure .040 in the center, first edge or last edge of the electrode? Hell, I can't even get a consistant reading when comparing that tool to my feeler gauges.

I think we get too caught up with textbook performance here. This is the real world where ambient temps, humidity, traffic, and a million other conditions actually affect performance. You just need to get close. A gap that is off by 0.004 is better than a dirty or burnt electrode. Dude, don't sweat the gap unless you see a demise in performance/mpgs.

 

idk i use feeler gauges personally so i expect to be pretty damnd close(i have also been known to check with a set of cailbrated dial calipers bc of my OCD)

also tps, iac or a bad battery could cause that

 

samn, I agree in priciple. That's why I said it would be fine, just not preferred. The gap will get bigger due to usage and over time that is where a larger than normal starting gap will be a bad thing.

For example, if the guy replaces the plugs yearly, just leave them alone.

SS, +1. With the right gauge, you can get damn close (IE tight) with the proper feelers.

IndyDurango

 

Thanks guys I changed the battery because when I got it it had a dead battery. We got it started once and when we let off of the gass it died. now it idles good at a stand still but while driving when you take your foot off of the gas to slow down it wants to drop RPMS below idleing. I thought it might be the tps so will order one. BTW what does IAC stand for? I don't mean to be ignorant but I am an old muscle car guy and do not know all of the accronyms for the newer vehicles.
Thanks again