1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Throttle Position Sensor Replacement

Old Oct 3, 2011 | 12:58 AM
  #101  
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Check your battery connections. If tight, have the battery tested UNDER LOAD.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 06:21 AM
  #102  
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+1 on the battery.It's amazing how these engines demand a good power supply,everything is dependant on it.

IAC = Idle Air Control...(solenoid) inthe DIY section theres a section on cleaning the throttle body and IAC. Mine did the same exact thing.Replaced the battery cuz I needed to anyway,cleaned the IAC and bore in the TB and it changed everything.Truck runs like new.....
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 02:45 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by samnbensdad
I can't leave this gapping issue... You guys don't honestly think the average shade-tree mechanic is going to be precise enough to hit exactly .040, do you? Think about the tools they are using; those round gapping tools are not even that precise. Besides, how many people know how to use the damn things... do you measure .040 in the center, first edge or last edge of the electrode? Hell, I can't even get a consistant reading when comparing that tool to my feeler gauges.

I think we get too caught up with textbook performance here. This is the real world where ambient temps, humidity, traffic, and a million other conditions actually affect performance. You just need to get close. A gap that is off by 0.004 is better than a dirty or burnt electrode. Dude, don't sweat the gap unless you see a demise in performance/mpgs.
Kinda what I was thinking, but I am not an expert here, I just like doing my own work. After thinking more about it, I only have them gaped at .043. I used feeler gages .022 and .021. I'm guessing that I should be ok since it is just .003 from spec. Thanks for clarifying samnbensdad.

I do appreciate everyones info here too.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 10:05 PM
  #104  
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Sharps was right, the only reason I tried a slightly larger gap was because I had an MSD ignition. Also I was bored and ported and many other performance gains. That is what worked for me and my motor. The reason I posted my findings were to give starter pointers.

Anyway, I don't think the gap is THAT particular, however that gap was set by the engineers that built the motor, and they ARE that **** about it. So for the gap I would set it right. Now think about this for a second, if there is only .004 - .010 clearance in the lifter journals then there better be that much or you can start shopping for a new motor, just sayin.

As for gapping plugs, I use an actual tool designed for manipulation of the electrode. It is a wire type type gage. Then I back it up with regular feelers. I ensure total clearance on the inside, center, and outside....The whole electrode.

sgt<--- Remove the Throttle Body and clean that thing out good. Clean the IAC and reset the PCM.


Now lets get back to the TPS thread huh?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 06:16 AM
  #105  
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Nice. I just read through 11 pages of a thread that was built over 8 years !

Couple interesting points. Learned some things about TPS, IAC, TPS, TB etc. I'm pretty good back yard mechanic, could probably do most on my own, maybe with some collaboration here and there. This site is good for that - found a bunch of other solutions to other problems on here also.

Bought my first Ram Truck about a month ago. Been fixing up slowly but surely.

Just did plugs wire cap rotor.

Having a little "ticking" sound occasionally, depending on conditions.

Was wondering if it's a little misfire from perhaps crossed plug wires, or if it's maybe somehow TPS, or other...

Not really sure if it's "misfire" or what? exhaust leak ? Seems to run a little weak at times. "Whistling" sound from under the hood and somewhat of a "whooshing" sound.. I think the whistling is from loose air intake 'tube'..

Trying to put it all together and diagnose.

Anyway, this forum sure does hit on alot of the issues involved - even if it takes 8 years to build an answer !!!

Thanks Hydra et al for running this database -

Paul
Cape Cod
 

Last edited by seatime; Nov 5, 2011 at 06:53 AM. Reason: clarify
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:21 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by seatime
Nice. I just read through 11 pages of a thread that was built over 8 years !

Couple interesting points. Learned some things about TPS, IAC, TPS, TB etc. I'm pretty good back yard mechanic, could probably do most on my own, maybe with some collaboration here and there. This site is good for that - found a bunch of other solutions to other problems on here also.

Bought my first Ram Truck about a month ago. Been fixing up slowly but surely.

Just did plugs wire cap rotor.

Having a little "ticking" sound occasionally, depending on conditions.

Was wondering if it's a little misfire from perhaps crossed plug wires, or if it's maybe somehow TPS, or other...

Not really sure if it's "misfire" or what? exhaust leak ? Seems to run a little weak at times. "Whistling" sound from under the hood and somewhat of a "whooshing" sound.. I think the whistling is from loose air intake 'tube'..

Trying to put it all together and diagnose.

Anyway, this forum sure does hit on alot of the issues involved - even if it takes 8 years to build an answer !!!

Thanks Hydra et al for running this database -

Paul
Cape Cod
An intermittent ticking is usually either a malfunctioning lifter, or a plug wire arcing to ground somewhere. Since you indicate it runs "a little weak at times", I'd suggest it's the latter, and that you should verify all the plug wires are connected properly and not damaged. If you had a couple of wires crossed, it'd be running like crap, probably have a dead miss on a couple of holes, throwing a code, and probably backfiring/popping/sputtering constantly. Since you recently replaced the wires, my guess is that you probably didn't get one of them seated correctly at the plug or cap.

Exhaust leaks will often make a ticking sound, but they're usually more constant, and pretty easy to track down, and won't cause a loss of power.

The whistling is probably a vacuum leak, as you say. Check the intake connections and make sure they're all tight, along with any other vacuum lines.

The "whooshing"....maybe you're hearing the fan clutch kick in? This is the only thing I can think of, really.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:40 AM
  #107  
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Awesome answers - quick reply for an 8 year old thread - this place is amazing..

Definitely going to check to see if wires are seated now that you clued me in to that.

Going to examine more closely other signs as well.

Appreciating all the info - TPS and related and how everything works together.

Thanks -
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #108  
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seatime, i know there is some cross over between the engines on the Ram and Durango, but you will get better answers about your ram if you look in the 2nd gen ram section instead of the durango section.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-64/
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #109  
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thanks, I know, I've been crawling all over this site since I bought the ram a month ago.

awesome answers all over the place - trying to narrow down and search and find specifics can be challanging, but when you hit it it really has HUGE VALUE -

durango and ram both seem to have the same 5.2 liter, so, i was reading some of the durange posts in case the applied to my situation-

however, I'm not going to keep off topic from the original TPS issue -

I can't think of anything I could add to the topic except that I'm narrowing down my repairs and eyeing the TPS, and I just want to get the finishing touches on this Dodge.

thanks
 
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 05:30 PM
  #110  
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yup pretty much the same, no problem to read the posts and reply, i just wanted to be sure you were aware of the 2nd gen section so that you dont post up something ram specific in here and get ignored.
 
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