I'm currently trying to find a low(er) mileage 2.4 to swap in my neon. my 2.0 DOHC has 218,000 and is just now starting to burn oil.my mechanic says some its leaking at the rear main seal, and its burning it as well. i dunno if i trust him or not. anyway -anyone whos gone down this road - is it worth the time and effort? if i have to rebuild my 2.0 - my thinking is... might as well swap it out cuz of the mileage. can it be done for under $1500? theres enough info on this forum to get me and my dad through the process.

 

Depends on what you pay for the engine? But yea i could see it done for that much. I would figure it would be under `1000 for sure because you have a dohc engine for the parts.

 

here....

Install
Okay now lets put it in step by step the best I can.
Remove battery and battery box.
Get car up in the air on jack stands and take wheels off.
Unbolt tierod end from steering knuckle.
Unbolt lower ball joint. Use big pry bar push lower control arm down popping ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Take axles out off completely or support them so they do not hang and damage the CV assembly.
Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses.
Disconnect heater hoses.
Remove the radiator over flow bottle.
Disconnect hard vacuum line from evap purge solenoid that is attached to right side motor mount. the hard line Runs through the intake manifold, slide it out once motor is out of car.
Disconnect P/S reservoir from back of head.
Disconnect fuel line from fuel rail.
Remove throttle cable(s) and auto trans kick down if applicable.
Disconnect wires going to the starter.
Remove tranny cables.
Disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust at the donut/collector, if you have a header remove header. Bolt chains to back of block.
Take off front motor mount and front motor mount bracket for clearance.
If you have manual trans unbolt bobble strut.
Remove two fluid lines going to the tranny from the radiator if you have an auto.
Unbolt A/C strap it to lower radiator support. Unbolt P/S pump and move it to right side inner fender between cowl and strut perch.
Remove the hood.
Chain motor to hoist and unbolt side mounts, carefully remove motor by twisting it out, watch those heater lines!!! For ease of removal and installation both radiator and fans should be removed.
Okay motor is out.
Cut center support out of intake manifold to clear knock sensor and dipstick.
Install injectors to fuel rail; be sure to use petroleum jelly on the o-rings so you don't damage them.
Install intake manifold.
Take upstream o2 sensor off old motor's exhaust manifold/header and install on new header. Leave header off to the side, we will get to it after the motor is in.
Install EGR block off plates. If you bought your kit from Vitor you won’t have to worry about EGR CEL with stock computer because of the resistor that comes in the kit. If you so desire, you can make the 2.0 DOHC EGR systems work with minimal modification.
Install throttle body from 2.0 motor on to the 2.4. I used the same 60mm Modern Performance throttle body I had on the old 2.0 DOHC. Take that hard vacuum line from throttle body to evap solenoid and run it through the intake manifold to the throttle body.
Pull off the stock 2.4 pulley from motor and toss to scrap pile
Since you have the old pulley off, if you so desired now is the best time install a set of cam gears and along with a new timing belt.
Might as well replace the water pump and oil pump now.
Remove starter and tranny from old motor and put on new motor BE SURE TO USE LOCTITE ON THE FOUR BOLTS THAT HOLD THE FLYWHEEL TO THE FLEXPLATE/BOLTS THAT HOLD THE TORQUE CONVERTER TO THE FLEX PLATE TIGHTEN THE HECK OUT OF THEM. THE FACTRY SERVICE MANUAL SAYS TO REPLACE THE BOLTS, IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO SO THEY HAVE LOCKTITE ON THEM IF YOU ORDER THEM FROM THE PARTS COUNTER AT YOUR LOCAL DEALERSHIP. TORQUE TO FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL SPECS.
None of the old support brackets from the tranny to the block of the 2.0 will fit. Just put them in the recycled metals pile. Remove alternator from old motor and install with pt bracket.
I used 2.4 cams in my car to start with. If you are using 2.0 cams all you need to do is cut the nipple of the cam magnet and rotate it 90 degrees. Best way is to mark it, turn it 90 and mark it again. It’s not rocket science.
The pickup on the crank trigger for the 2.4 are different from the 2.0 as you all know so some wiring must be changed for the 2.4. It is as follows:
Take the injector harness and move the plugs to the right. Label everything so you don't accidentally mix them up. You may have to change the plug itself to work with the Accel injectors. Basically it's like this.
Injector plug 1 must be plugged into injector 2.
Injector plug 2 must be plugged into injector 3.
Injector plug 3 must be plugged into injector 4.
Injector plug 4 wires must be extended so it can be plugged into injector 1.
Now there are three wires on the coil pack plug. Take the 2 outside wires and switch them. Leave the center wire alone.
Extend the wire for the knock sensor.
Finish setting up your harness by putting it all in place change connections as necessary to work with the sensors that you are not changing from the motor.
Remember to check the speedometer sensor connector especially if you are using an auto trans. Double check all the sensors and connectors again to be sure they are plugged in and tight.
Remove A/C bracket from 2.0 and install on 2.4 can only use 3 of the five bolts. Take 2.0 P/S bracket and give it to a friend. Use a PT P/S bracket, slot the holes for adjustability. This option is probably the best rather than cutting the fragile cast aluminum 2.0 bracket.
Cut front motor mount to clear the oil pan. It doesn’t take much.

Okay if you haven't already taken off that right side fan, trust me it's worth it take it off now. If the motor is all wired and the tranny is bolted on tight to the motor hoist it up and lets squeeze it in literally!
Okay tranny side first, if you have an auto good luck man because you won't think it will fit from the top at all, but it will! Literally wiggle is slowly into the bay. You will have to twist the motor to clear the tranny. Motor and tranny will be an extreme downward angle. Watch the heater lines so they don't hit the cowl!!! Get motor in the bay really low, install tranny mount to tranny. Now lift tranny with spare jack into place. Put bolt through mount tighten it down.
Install pass mount to inner fender/frame rail then using the hoist lift the motor up to put the bolt through put nut on it and tighten it down.
Yes it’s in! Remove the hoist. Now for the real fun.
Bolt the a/c compressor to the 2.0 bracket you installed earlier.
Bolt the p/s to the PT bracket.If you had a SOHC the p/s reservoir will not fit right but that can be creatively held in place. You may need to reroute the hardlines a little bit, use your best judgment but do not crimp them in any way.
Install the FMM.
DON'T FORGET THE GROUND FROM THE WIRING HARNESS RIGHT BELOW THE STARTER!!! Reinstall a/c compressor. Remove the factory 2.4 exhaust manifold...put on 2.0 DOHC header or 2.0 DOHC exhaust manifold. Hook up exhaust.Now you can hook up the o2 sensors. Put the right side fan back in if you choose to. You must put the left hand side on back on, but the right one is optional unless you have the small radiator and didn’t have the right hand fan in the first place.Make sure you got the ground that goes from the fender to the back of the head bolted down.
Make sure that ground on the upper radiator support is good
Hook up engine harness to fuse box and computer check the o2 sensors so the wires aren't rubbing on anything hot.
Make sure you hooked up that speed sensor in the tranny if you didn't put it when you installed the tranny. if you have an auto trans hook up the two lines running from the radiatorInstall thermostat and thermostat housing to the intake manifold
Stock DOHC upper radiator hose works fine, install it
Cut inch of top and bottom of lower DOHC radiator hose to fit it in place. You may need a little more or a little less but it will fit fine once cut.
Okay check the wiring again the best you can.
Check timing one last time, then install udp and belts. YOU MUST USE AND UDP.
Shorten heater hoses coming from the firewall to hook up to the 2.4. I cut the bracket that holds the two hard heater lines together so I had more room to hook it up.
Remember the top hose from the firewall will hook to the hard-line that's on the passenger side. The lower heater hose coming out of the radiator goes to the driver’s side hard line.
Install overflow tank and hook up line to thermostat housing. Make sure that the hard vacuum line from the throttle body to the evap purge solenoid is hooked up. Evap purge solenoid is normally attached with a sheet metal screw to the right motor mount; I did not put it back, and moved it slightly and secured it creatively.
Check your fluids, I needed 4 quarts of tranny fluid in my mtx.
Fill it full of antifreeze.
Reinstall the axles.
Now put axles where they are supposed to be and start slowly putting strut back in place while installing the axle at the same time. Once the axle is seated get out the pry bar push that lower control arm down. Move ball joint stud into place and slowly let the control arm up putting the stud into its spot on the knuckle. FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL CALLS FOR REPLACEMENT OF THIS BOLT. WE CHOSE TO IMPACT THE BALLJOINT BOLT BACK INTO PLACE WITH OUT REPLACING IT OUT OF HABIT. MAKE YOUR BEST CHOICE BUT PLEASE TORQUE TO PROPER FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL TORQUE SPECS OR YOU WILL BE IN A HEAP OF TROUBLE LATER. IT MUST BE VERY TIGHT. Check the upper three strut nuts to make sure they are tight. Reinstall the tierod to the knuckle and tighten it down.
Check the three grounds one last time for safety, one bolts to the back of the head. Another bolts to the bellhousing of the trans below the starter, and the third is the little one that goes to the upper radiator support using an 8 mm sheet metal screw.
Install battery box and battery
If everything is installed and tight, turn the key to on and prime the fuel rail. Listen for the fuel pump. Try and start the car. If it runs, good for you.
If it doesn’t…
Does it have fuel and spark?
Did you switch the outer coil pack wires?
Did you move the injectors down 1?
Did you remember all the grounds?
Is the crank sensor good?
Is the timing good?
If you’re using 2.0 cams, did you rotate the cam magnet?
If the car won’t start, try unplugging the cam sensor and turning it over.
This swap is pretty easy if you have a garage to do it in, an engine hoist and stand, and an air compressor. My swap took a while because I had to wait on injectors. I also switched the cam and coil sensors for the pt ones not knowing those wouldn’t fit. Putting the neon ones back on I switched the 2 and fried my MP Ecu. I didn’t catch this for a long time as the sensors are the same. I tried everything to get the car to start, but it wouldn’t with a bad ecu. I’d also recommend not installing the udp until the last minute.

 

after going over everything... i think i might save the money from buying a 2.4 and just rebuild my 2.0. does anyone know where I can get low compression pistons for it? yes, I am thinking turbo. will a lot of stuff for an eclipse 420a fit in this engine? i was only going to keep this car through college, but its grown on me too much. instead of takingmoney and getting a truck for winter I'm just going to put it in my motor. so heres the setup i hope to have completed over the next two months

engine rebuild (pistons, oil pump, seals, rings, water pump, cam gears)
new clutch (the car is on it's original clutch still, id like to get a little quicker response)
short throw shifter
420a valve cover (bcuz i will be losing that plastic thing, and that valve cover looks sweet)
pt cruiser lifters and rockers (howell says these are better, is it true?)
turbocharged and intercooled (wastegate, blow off valve, turbo exhaust manifold, etc)
complete exhaust system

so basically what im asking is there anything thats not entirely expensive that will make a big difference in this rebuilt/turbo process that i might as well do while i have the engine apart. i just want a clean looking engine bay, and a car thats fun as hell to drive. but at the same time be able to get me around without sucking huge amounts of gas

i dont want to spend more than 3500, 3800 max. I dont have the time or patience to try and srt-4 swap it. and there is something in making the car quick on its original motor that makes me feel all fuzzy inside.

 

big fat nasty cams with no overlap...

you also have to figure in machine shop work...

heres the rebuild kits...

http://www.modernperformance.com/ind...72bd838f9478ce

 

nice, so are those crane cams and je low compression pistons the best way to go for what im after? im looking at injection right now. i know ill need a better fuel pump, and better injectors as well.

 

'i dont want to spend more than 3500, 3800 max.'

if your after a turbo with internals thats never going to happenand pleasedont shop off ebay for any internal part.

for $4500 you might be able to do it.

 

honestly I think with the price range your looking for you can make a insane 2.4 NA pushing over 200 hp... heres the 200hp 2.4 recipe. And alot of these things you can find cheaper used...and with a 3800 dollar budget you could do it... and you will be much happier with a NA car that has instant insane throttle response...

Required Parts
Camshafts: Crane 22 or bigger, or a set of the crower custom grind cams (like 3 sets made?)
Valve Springs: Crane or Crower, Crower preferred.
Retainers: stock is fine, titanium if you want to be fancy.
Valvetrain: PT or 2.7 Rocker Arms, PT Lifters
Exhaust: at least 2.5", 3" is optional, exhaust dump for the track is a good choice or if you want a quiet setup using stock piping.
Intake Manifold: DOHC Intake Manifold can do it.
Header: Longtube Header, at least 21" long primaries, in the area of 27-30" is fairly common.
Intake: Cold air intake of some sort. Iceman, 2.5" piping, 3.0, etc
Throttle Body: at least a ATX 52mm, 60mm+ is preferred.
Cylinder Head: Full Race P&P. Regular DOHC, PT, or SRT-4.
Fuel System: 24 lb injectors with 58 PSI Regulator, or 30 lb'ers with stock 49 PSI Regulator. Adjustable FPR is optional and best choice.
Fuel Pump: Walbro 255 Highly Recommended.
PCM: MPP DOHC PCM at minimum. AFX or MS optional.
Tuning Hardware: S-AFC or Adj. FPR at minimum. MS optional.
Clutch: at least PT Clutch. Stock SRT-4 or stronger is optional.
Pulley: Underdrive Pulley
Cam Gears: Adjustables basically required for tuning. AEM, Fidanza, UR, etc.

Other optional things to do:
Remove the Balance Shafts
Crank-Scraper
Windage Tray/Baffle Kit
Aluminum Flywheel
Decking of the head (0.020-0.045")
Stainless Steel Valves, oversize won't hurt, but might not be much gains.
Aftermarket Box Manifold, etc. (AMM, Blackdog, etc)

Other Information:
The header will need at least 1.75" primaries.
A merge collector is highly recommended, if not required.

 

hmmm..... ok. so basically its going to come down to my block. once i get everything apart and see what things really look like in there. the hahn stage 1 kit says it'll push between 200 and 225 horesepower.. on stock internals. if i got an intercooler for it then i assume it would do even better.

i live 20 minutes from howell automotive, and they have a good bit in stock. internals will probably either come from them or modern. most likely from howell though. theyre good guys to talk to.

i need to rebuild my engine because of the mileage if i keep with the 2.0. even if i just rebuild it on stock internals. i think turbocharging pistons with 200k+ miles on them isa bad idea. plus as i said im leaking a bit of oil. i do not appear to be burning oil though. est- how is your turbo set up coming?

ive done a lot of work on my own cars since before i could drive, but its always just been to keep them running and safe. ive never had the time or the money to do anything like this before - to build on what i have. so i reallly appreciate all you guys' help. i want take this slow, do it right, and have the best results possible.

 

then NA is the way to go its so much harder to kill a NA car then a forced induction car... you have so many other things to worry about with FI one thing goes wrong and boom...NA the worst you can do is kill it... granted you can also mess up a NA motor but as long as you do your research you will be fine and it will be reliable and fun...turbo alot less reliable. still fun but just wouldent want to run the risk of blowing **** up and then having to spend more money...