GRRRRRR Fuel problems
#1
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So I just replaced the fuel filter on my 96 DOHC and now when I accelerate, it spits and sputters and my service engine light flashes until I back off the throttle and it smooths out. I made sure I installed the filter correctly and now I'm starting to wonder if my pump is on the way out or maybe a bad injector? What do you guys think? I'm damn near ready to light this thing on fire and buy a newer one.
#4
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well the filter is part of the regulator and the strainer is inside the tank. Im thinking you did the strainer.
first thing i would do is check the fuel pressure. if your suspecting the injectors you can pull the fuel rail and turn the engine to see how the injectors are firing (careful not to start the car on fire).
first thing i would do is check the fuel pressure. if your suspecting the injectors you can pull the fuel rail and turn the engine to see how the injectors are firing (careful not to start the car on fire).
#6
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i dont have the diagams but this sould helps some. basicly its ether on the mounted on the outside of the tank service port or on the inside output line.
"Rick '99 Flame Red R/T wrote:
1st Generation Neon Fuel Filter/Pressure Regulator
All cars come equipped with a Sock (or Wick) type filter over the intake tube in the gas tank, this is generally not considered the fuel filter. The Sock Filter is just to prevent particles from the tank being sucked up into the intake tube and clogging the fuel pump. The actual Fuel Filter is after the pump and protects the rest of the fuel system; it is with very rare exception that a car does not have this filter. I’ve never heard of a fuel injected system no having a TRUE Fuel Filter after the fuel pump, I’m sure the injectors would clog very quickly without this basic protection, and a sock filter at the pick up will not provide this protection.
There is some confusion over the fuel filter for the later plastic tank 1st Generation Neons, and people have been lead to believe that there is no fuel filter, except the Sock or Wick type filter at the pick up tube. This is NOT true, the plastic tank Neons DO have a separate fuel filter that can be easily changed outside of the fuel tank. It is a combination Fuel Pressure Regulator and Filter that mounts on the exterior surface of the fuel pump and connects directly to the fuel line. I have not found an aftermarket replacement for this Fuel pressure regulator/filter, so it is a dealer only item, if you shop around it can be found for under $30, but we all know stearlerships, umm I mean dealerships, there are plenty that will demand more than $50 for the item.
The Fuel Filter for the ’95 Neon, which can be found on some ’96 models with the same METAL fuel tank as the ’95 model, is an external canister filter that is quite common on most fuel injected vehicles.
Mid way thru the ’96 model year Chrysler switched to a plastic fuel tank for Neons and a different fuel pump and Fuel Filter. If you go to the parts counter at your local dodge dealership and ask for the fuel filter, they will pull up this incorrect diagram.
#2 is listed as “FILTER KIT, Fuel” and #5 is listed as “FILTER, Fuel Pressure Regulator”. Notice the location of the #5, it is on the internal side of the mounting flange of the fuel pump, meaning its internal to the fuel tank and you would have to pull the fuel pump to get to it. THIS DIAGRAM IS INCORRECT, the “FILTER, Fuel Pressure Regulator” is mounted on the mounting flange of the fuel pump on the external side. The incorrect diagram will lead the parts counter personnel to tell you that you have to remove the fuel pump to change the filter and/or they will try to give you #2. Despite what they tell you, tell them you want Part # 4546610. If they insist it won’t work, just have them pull a new fuel pump from the shelf, and look at it, they will find Part #4546610 mounted on the exterior of the mounting flange of the pump.
It will look like the following maintenance illustration.
And changing the Fuel Filter/Pressure Regulator is as simple as pulling the fuel line w/ the quick disconnects and then pressing in the spring tab and turning as you pull it out.
The only difficulty I encountered changing this Filter/Pressure Regulator has been the tight space it is in, it would be a 2 minute job if your hand fit into the area easily, instead it’s a 20 minute job as you struggle to apply enough pressure on the quick disconnects and tabs with so little space to squeeze your hands into.
How often should you change the fuel filters on a vehicle? That is a debate that there is no correct answer. Most would disagree with the Chrysler recommendation that it will last the life of the vehicle, or at least the life of the fuel pump, which you do get both filters brand new with a new fuel pump. On the other hand, if you wait until the filter clogs, you’ll be buying a new fuel pump with that new fuel filter.
Filters usually clog when you get foreign substance and particles in the gas tank, or if you put poor quality gas in the tank; so if you never have that happen a filter may last for the life of the vehicle. You could have a brand new filter clog from one tank of bad gas, or driving thru a dust bowl when after forgetting to tighten down your gas cap.
Unless you get symptoms of a clogged fuel filter, which many people jump to conclusions that their fuel filter is clogged when they get fuel system problems and its not, I personally would change the filter every 50k miles.
The sock filter, in the tank, this is very difficult to change, as well, it’s a very rough filter to only filter out large particles letting most small stuff pass thru for the finer filter after the pump to catch. Most people only change this filter with the fuel pump and never experience any problem with this change interval, it rarely clogs and effects the performance of the vehicle. "
"Rick '99 Flame Red R/T wrote:
1st Generation Neon Fuel Filter/Pressure Regulator
All cars come equipped with a Sock (or Wick) type filter over the intake tube in the gas tank, this is generally not considered the fuel filter. The Sock Filter is just to prevent particles from the tank being sucked up into the intake tube and clogging the fuel pump. The actual Fuel Filter is after the pump and protects the rest of the fuel system; it is with very rare exception that a car does not have this filter. I’ve never heard of a fuel injected system no having a TRUE Fuel Filter after the fuel pump, I’m sure the injectors would clog very quickly without this basic protection, and a sock filter at the pick up will not provide this protection.
There is some confusion over the fuel filter for the later plastic tank 1st Generation Neons, and people have been lead to believe that there is no fuel filter, except the Sock or Wick type filter at the pick up tube. This is NOT true, the plastic tank Neons DO have a separate fuel filter that can be easily changed outside of the fuel tank. It is a combination Fuel Pressure Regulator and Filter that mounts on the exterior surface of the fuel pump and connects directly to the fuel line. I have not found an aftermarket replacement for this Fuel pressure regulator/filter, so it is a dealer only item, if you shop around it can be found for under $30, but we all know stearlerships, umm I mean dealerships, there are plenty that will demand more than $50 for the item.
The Fuel Filter for the ’95 Neon, which can be found on some ’96 models with the same METAL fuel tank as the ’95 model, is an external canister filter that is quite common on most fuel injected vehicles.
Mid way thru the ’96 model year Chrysler switched to a plastic fuel tank for Neons and a different fuel pump and Fuel Filter. If you go to the parts counter at your local dodge dealership and ask for the fuel filter, they will pull up this incorrect diagram.
#2 is listed as “FILTER KIT, Fuel” and #5 is listed as “FILTER, Fuel Pressure Regulator”. Notice the location of the #5, it is on the internal side of the mounting flange of the fuel pump, meaning its internal to the fuel tank and you would have to pull the fuel pump to get to it. THIS DIAGRAM IS INCORRECT, the “FILTER, Fuel Pressure Regulator” is mounted on the mounting flange of the fuel pump on the external side. The incorrect diagram will lead the parts counter personnel to tell you that you have to remove the fuel pump to change the filter and/or they will try to give you #2. Despite what they tell you, tell them you want Part # 4546610. If they insist it won’t work, just have them pull a new fuel pump from the shelf, and look at it, they will find Part #4546610 mounted on the exterior of the mounting flange of the pump.
It will look like the following maintenance illustration.
And changing the Fuel Filter/Pressure Regulator is as simple as pulling the fuel line w/ the quick disconnects and then pressing in the spring tab and turning as you pull it out.
The only difficulty I encountered changing this Filter/Pressure Regulator has been the tight space it is in, it would be a 2 minute job if your hand fit into the area easily, instead it’s a 20 minute job as you struggle to apply enough pressure on the quick disconnects and tabs with so little space to squeeze your hands into.
How often should you change the fuel filters on a vehicle? That is a debate that there is no correct answer. Most would disagree with the Chrysler recommendation that it will last the life of the vehicle, or at least the life of the fuel pump, which you do get both filters brand new with a new fuel pump. On the other hand, if you wait until the filter clogs, you’ll be buying a new fuel pump with that new fuel filter.
Filters usually clog when you get foreign substance and particles in the gas tank, or if you put poor quality gas in the tank; so if you never have that happen a filter may last for the life of the vehicle. You could have a brand new filter clog from one tank of bad gas, or driving thru a dust bowl when after forgetting to tighten down your gas cap.
Unless you get symptoms of a clogged fuel filter, which many people jump to conclusions that their fuel filter is clogged when they get fuel system problems and its not, I personally would change the filter every 50k miles.
The sock filter, in the tank, this is very difficult to change, as well, it’s a very rough filter to only filter out large particles letting most small stuff pass thru for the finer filter after the pump to catch. Most people only change this filter with the fuel pump and never experience any problem with this change interval, it rarely clogs and effects the performance of the vehicle. "
#7
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#9
#10
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I hope it's OK to piggyback onto this thread, since it is related.
I filled the gas tank at a Mobil station and got in to start the car and leave. The engine started right up no problem and stalled in 2 seconds. The fuel pump dind't make any noise when I tried to start it again. I checked both labelled fuses and they were/still are good. Had it towed home. After getting dropped in my driveway, the engine started right up fine and I drove it into the garage.
I couldn't duplicate the problem but did not want another expensive tow home so I left it until I had time to look into the problem. The relay seems to work every time it should. I checked the connector at the left console trim (kick) panel and it does not seem to have any problem. After wiggling and tugging on the wires to this connector, there is no change. The fuel pump woked everytime I tried to start the engine. I drove the Neon out of the garage and parked it. Now the fuel pump dosn't work again even though I hear the relay click when I try to start the engine.
That was a few days ago. Now, after sitting parked since then, I went out and it started right up again. I drove it back into the garage so I could pursue the problem but now hopefully with help from this forum.
When the fuel pumps go bad or clog, is it once and they never come back to life again ? Or am I correct in assuming that I need to find where the intermittant electrical connection is ? If it is an intermittant connection is there any likely cuplrit that commonly acts up ? The tow truck driver mentioned he thought it is probably the connector at the pump. I haven't looked there yet. Is it easily viewable with the car in the air ?
I filled the gas tank at a Mobil station and got in to start the car and leave. The engine started right up no problem and stalled in 2 seconds. The fuel pump dind't make any noise when I tried to start it again. I checked both labelled fuses and they were/still are good. Had it towed home. After getting dropped in my driveway, the engine started right up fine and I drove it into the garage.
I couldn't duplicate the problem but did not want another expensive tow home so I left it until I had time to look into the problem. The relay seems to work every time it should. I checked the connector at the left console trim (kick) panel and it does not seem to have any problem. After wiggling and tugging on the wires to this connector, there is no change. The fuel pump woked everytime I tried to start the engine. I drove the Neon out of the garage and parked it. Now the fuel pump dosn't work again even though I hear the relay click when I try to start the engine.
That was a few days ago. Now, after sitting parked since then, I went out and it started right up again. I drove it back into the garage so I could pursue the problem but now hopefully with help from this forum.
When the fuel pumps go bad or clog, is it once and they never come back to life again ? Or am I correct in assuming that I need to find where the intermittant electrical connection is ? If it is an intermittant connection is there any likely cuplrit that commonly acts up ? The tow truck driver mentioned he thought it is probably the connector at the pump. I haven't looked there yet. Is it easily viewable with the car in the air ?