1st Gen Neon 1995 through 1999 Neons

Not familar with dodges.

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  #41  
Old 03-30-2009, 08:13 PM
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I started tearing in to it. Pulled the dash apart and started pulling the front end apart and removing the intercooler from the old bent up bumper and and cutting in the intercooler to the new bumper.

Im trying to figure out where to put the boost gauge. The old car had it in the A pillar but I dont like it there.

These are just crappy cell phone pics.







A few random shots of turbo & parts.







 
  #42  
Old 03-30-2009, 08:16 PM
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Got the motor and trans separated & got the motor on a stand and drain the oil out of the motor to pull the pan off so I can see whats actually inside of this thing just to get a better understanding of it. I have also found out that the motor and trans has about 4000-5000 miles on it since its complete rebuild.







Well it has JE pistons and Eagle H-Beam rods. I will be pulling the valve cover tomorrow to find out what cam it has. I have been told it has a Crower cam in it.





I will be pulling the valve cover tomorrow to find out what cam it has. I have been told it has a Crower cam in it.
 
  #43  
Old 03-30-2009, 08:27 PM
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9.2:1 compression im guessing?
 
  #44  
Old 03-30-2009, 09:35 PM
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I wish I knew. I was thinking either 8.5:1 or 9.5:1. Im still trying to figure it out.
 
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:15 PM
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I got the 12.1:1 ratio JE pistons .090 over. I'm in the middle of my rebuild to get it ready for track day. Crane 18 cam, enlarged valves and a very through porting job on my intake. I just got done pulling the engine apart today. I'll get pics up soon. I'm expecting to get my car to the point adjusted 8.5:1 weight/power ratio area to be compeditive in B class. NASA racing classes...Road Course.
 

Last edited by sabin420; 03-30-2009 at 11:17 PM.
  #46  
Old 03-31-2009, 07:26 PM
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Well today I tore down the motor a lil more. I pulled the valve cover off and well....cant see much as far as the cam but it sure is clean in there. I will be cleaning up the motor tomorrow. So on to the pics.

The old motor




The new motor
So clean









Broken down for well needed cleaning



Yes im leaving the exhaust manifold on.


Fidanza Cam Gear dialed in at 2 degrees advance.

Well today I tore down the motor a lil more. I pulled the valve cover off and well....cant see much as far as the cam but it sure is clean in there. I will be cleaning up the motor tomorrow. So on to the pics.

The old motor




The new motor
So clean








Broken down for well needed cleaning



Yes im leaving the exhaust manifold on.


Fidanza Cam Gear dialed in at 2 degrees advance.



More to come tomorrow

More to come tomorrow
 

Last edited by b18a1ef; 03-31-2009 at 07:48 PM.
  #47  
Old 03-31-2009, 09:19 PM
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take off the cam sensor and remove the magnet....if the cam ends up being a CRANE then there should be part numbers etched on the side of the cam

hahn racecraft turbo kit, JE pistons, eagle rods, oil pan, block work, cam, cam gear, underdrive pulley....still no where near $15,000
you should of grabbed the fuel pump out of the car too
 

Last edited by spudsterier; 03-31-2009 at 09:26 PM.
  #48  
Old 03-31-2009, 10:41 PM
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any close-up of the intake ports on the head? they been worked? might I suggest taking some dyno pulls and fine tuning the cam gear. I've heard to retard the cam. not advance it. and that gear is retarded 2 degrees not advanced...check rotaion direction and you will see what i'm talkin bout.
 
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Old 04-01-2009, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by spudsterier
take off the cam sensor and remove the magnet....if the cam ends up being a CRANE then there should be part numbers etched on the side of the cam

hahn racecraft turbo kit, JE pistons, eagle rods, oil pan, block work, cam, cam gear, underdrive pulley....still no where near $15,000
you should of grabbed the fuel pump out of the car too
I was told that the guy spent that. TOTAL COST

Now maybe he was exagerating but I really dont care cause it didnt cost me a dime.

I will try and take off the cam sensor today and see what # is on the end of the cam. Thanx for letting me know about that.

Originally Posted by sabin420
any close-up of the intake ports on the head? they been worked? might I suggest taking some dyno pulls and fine tuning the cam gear. I've heard to retard the cam. not advance it. and that gear is retarded 2 degrees not advanced...check rotaion direction and you will see what i'm talkin bout.

I havent taken the timing belt cover off yet so I wasnt able to look at the cam fully. I was able to just read Fidanza and the etchings. My dad has a friend that has a mobile dyno that is willing to come down to our shop and run it for me.
 
  #50  
Old 04-01-2009, 08:07 PM
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Well I got it all cleaned up and degreased. Looks 10x better. I got the dash pulled out as well to remove the climate control. Got the passenger airbag out and the cover glued to the dash pad. Now I gotta figure out how to do the same to the wheel airbag. I also started to remove some stuff under the hood to prep the removal of the old motor and trans. Found out that the cradle underneath has to come out and the motor and trans comes with it. How easy is that? Just bolt it all on the cradle and install. I like it!!! On to the pics. I forgot to take pics of the intake ports. But it doesnt look like they have been ported.




Hard to see



What is this all about? These to hoses that are blocked off? Its not on the 98 Motor.

 


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