Okay, I gotcha.




As you can see from the pic, I found that using the tow strap worked much better than trying to attach the chain to anything. It lifted straight out and was easy to install. I had to be careful what the strap came into contact with but other than that, all was well.

 

I used one of the borrow pullers that AutoZone offered. It worked like it was supposed to but the dampener was on just too tight. If you look at the outer edge of the area the machinist cut, you can kind of see the chunk the puller took out when it broke. The guy at the machine shop drilled a small dimple in the bolt so the puller he used would stay centered. I use a socket that fit inside the outer rim of the bold but allowed the puller drive bolt to stay straight as I put the pressure on it.


I don't have a torch but would have purchased a propane model to heat the dampener before using the puller if I had thought about it. The shop tried it but the dampener was already broke so his puller didn't work like it was designed to. You can see where the timing cover is melted a little where he heated it.

 

Wow! Never seen that happen before. Duck hunt, Classic!

 

A few buddies on another forum said these engines are notorious for this. I only have their word and my experience.

I started pealing back layers and low and behold, I need a puller to get the gear off too. GAh! Looks like another trip to AutoZone in the morning. I could probably take the crank out with the oil pump but I don't really want to. I'm seriously thinking of replacing the oil pump anyway.

This engine seems burnt. Does this look like 79K? I guess running out of oil might do it too.

 

It seems the gear behind the dampener needs a special tool that I'm not allowed to buy. Only the dealer has access to this particular puller. If however I happen to ruin it trying to take it off, they'll be happy to sell me another one for $25.

Unreal.


Question, Can I take the cranks shaft out without taking this gear off. I won't be able to take the oil pump off the shaft but that's okay. What I need is to unfasten the oil pump from the block. I'll take the crank down to the machine shop gear, oil pump and all.

 

The answer is yes, you can. I'm off to the machine shop.

Edit-Mike at the machine shop took some measurements and decided that the wear he saw was not enough to account for the knocking I was hearing. Now I'm stuck. I don't know what to do other than put the thing back together.

This is me feeling like an idiot.

 

Back to work on the Neon. Man I work slow.

It's time to put the crank shaft back in and torque down the main bolts. That means finding the spec information. Better get busy.

 

Okay, I'm going to replace the main bearings and the rod bearings, as well as all the lower end gaskets which includes the rear main seal. Those are all on the way and should be here tomorrow or the next day. The crank seems to be fine so I'm not going to do any work to it other than wipe it down with a dry rag before instillation.

I'm not going to replace any of the bolts but I am going to chase the holes with a tap and make sure they're clean. I'm told that I don't have to torque to tolerance to get a proper seat so will use the specs recommended by the machine shop.

The three problems I had with this engine going in were a knock which I associated with a low oil condition, an oil leak which I never did locate, and a stalling problem. My plan is to narrow as much as possible the possibilities by which these things can occurred, without inuring undue expenses. Hence my replacing the bearings and the gaskets.

I'm on the fence still about the timing belt. I may still replace it if I can find one for a good price.

I hope my local wrecking yard has a 1st Gen Neon so I can replace power steering reservoir tank that I broke taking the engine out of the car. That will probably be my next task.


I wish this car had a MTX. I might be willing to put some money into it.

 

Can't find the right sized tap, can't chase the hole. Oh well.