I have to replace the passenger side and don't have the open ends to loosen the nut. I figured carefully cutting into the nut on two sides till its close the cranking with a crescent would break it off or pop it off with a screw driver? New tie rod end has a new nut..

A tie rod itself is 30 dollars which I doubt is more expensive then a shop putting the end in so I have nothing to lose and I'm not looking for another uninspected ticket.

 

Seriously, just buy an 18mm wrench (mabey it's 19mm). In a pinch, a pipe wrench will work... So will your cressent (unless it's a short one)
Use a mapp torch on it, or it will laugh at you. Mark the orientation of the jam nut, and remember how many turns you back it off from the tie rod end. Loosen the jam nut before the castle nut at the knuckle. I preffer to leave the jam nut in place, as it will keep the aprox position of the tie rod end noted (although the new tie rod end could be slightly shorter/longer). Count the number of turns it takes to remove the old one, note the position of the tie rod during removal.

On the OEM ones, they are split at the bottom. after backing the jam nut off, spread that bitch. Use a chisle and hammer to open it up. Wire wheel the **** outta the threads, and a small dab of antisieze on it would be good.

Good luck, it's simple as can be, but difficult in the rust belt...
~Nate

 

My friend has a map torch. I guess I can get a wrench for it, I'm sure I can figure out the size but the cresent(decent size) keep slipping/stripping over so its on there pretty tight. If it doesn't work, do you honestly think a pipe wrench would since its a nut, I don't want to strip the nut.

 

Yeah, a pipe wrench will do it, but it most likely will damage the jam nut. The pipe is designed with some play in the head of it, and the jaws are at an angle. When pushing down on the handle, this forces the angle to get smaller (crushing down on the jam nut) They are also very robust, and a piece of pipe over the end will be benificial.

Cutting the nut off would take forever (depending on methads used, as there isnt much room), and you risk nicking the inner tie rod...

~Nate

 

agreed....i did this last year with all the right tools and the nut just laughed at me and sat on there.....the mapp torch makes all the difference

 

Pipe wrench was the winner. No heat used, but the first couple rotations were a bitch and the wrench slipped once or twice. For anyone else, the open end needed is a 22mm.

 

Awesome awesome... What brand did you go, and are they greaseable?
~Nate

 

Brand of what?

 

Tie rod ends...

 

Not sure, whatever was cheapest at advanced auto parts. It was like 25 or so for it.