I forgot about the other items you mentioned.

1) Oil leak - forget about it for now as long as it is not pouring oil out (read as replacing a missing quart each week), but even then, keeping it full will prevent any damage.

2) Radiator fan. Yes you can directly connect the fan to the battery to see if it is the squealer. Just run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the fan motor connector and it will kick on and if it is bad, it will squeal like a pig that's just been castrated or had its tail bob'd - ouch!

3) Do a quick check on any possible error codes. Either a do the on-off 3 times very quickly (aka the Dodge key dance) and read the codes from the check engine light blinks (search this forum for details - ignore codes 12 and 55), or go to Autozone, Advance, or OReilly and let them do it (no charge at all) and write down all that you get.

4) To remove the radiator cap (engine cold). Press the cap down very firmly and rotate counter-clockwise. Pushing the cap down depresses the spring allowing the tabs to get past the locks. I do not recommend this, but if the engine is hot, raise the red tab up until ALL and I do mean ALL the pressure is released and any overflow is pushed into the tank. Let go of the tab. Repeat a few times just to be sure. Using an oven mitt or heavy towel, press down very firmly on the cap and rotate counter clockwise and be aware that it may still pop off and spew a little very hot fluid, so DO NOT hover over it with your face and arms and be ready to drop the whole mess quickly.

5) Dashboard temp guage. Search this forum for the thread(s) about reflowing the solder on the dashboard instrument cluster at the point where the cluster connects to the wiring as it is the primary failure point for just about every instrument failure from temp to fuel to speedo. This also takes some skill with a soldering iron, so it may be better if you just get a used one at a junkyard. Also remember, if the error code(s) show up as a temp coolant sensor issue, then it could still be a bad sensor and need to be replaced.

 

IMAG0112.jpg?t=1262860468

I took this image a while back as obviously seen from the date stamp =P! That's the radiator fan at the very front of the engine, right? From what I can tell I'm pretty sure it is the radiator fan because that's the radiator right there next to it. The problem is that I don't know where "the positive side of the fan motor connector" is. Tomorrow I'll go see if I can take better pictures and try to find the connector in the process.

As for the error codes, I'll see if I can get my car running as it's been a while so the battery is dead. Lol, that's what I get for putting this problem aside for 6+ months. Thanks for all the help so far, bg1995redneon!

 

Yes. the round thing in the front just behind the radiator is the electric fan motor. On the backside of the fan motor (held in place with some plastic clips to keep it away and out of the fan blades) is a two wire connector that just clips on.

The problem you will have is that it will be very hard to see the connector on the fan to put the wire to it from the battery, much less hold it there to check it out. Small alligator clips on the wire you use will make it a little easier. It is way easier to do this with the fan removed, but that also requires more up front work. The fan is only held in place with a couple of screws, but you will need to undo the upper radiator hose to get it out, and while not difficult, you will lose some coolant.

The nice thing is, if the fan IS bad, you already have it out. The bad thing is, if it is not the fan, then you have to put it back and keep looking.