Pcm ???
#1
#3
My PCM squeals like a pig - especially after I dog it (aggressive driving) for awhile. This is normal and will continue LONG after you shut off the car. Sounds weird I know. Get a mechanics stethoscope and really listen! Sounds like an old timey 1950's era computer whirring and clicking and beeping....
And to answer your other question, no, there is no way to test a PCM EXCEPT in the car and completely connected. Which means that if you have a bad PCM, or just a car that won't crank and you want the PCM checked, you will have to bring the entire car to the shop. That is a direct answer I got from a dealer when I inquired about my PCM when I thought it may have gone bad and pulled my ##$$ing hair out trying to find out what was really wrong. Oh. I had removed mine and had it in my hand to give them for testing too. They do not/cannot bench test PCM's. Maybe the OEM can and probably do before they are shipped out, but no one else can/will/has.
And to answer your other question, no, there is no way to test a PCM EXCEPT in the car and completely connected. Which means that if you have a bad PCM, or just a car that won't crank and you want the PCM checked, you will have to bring the entire car to the shop. That is a direct answer I got from a dealer when I inquired about my PCM when I thought it may have gone bad and pulled my ##$$ing hair out trying to find out what was really wrong. Oh. I had removed mine and had it in my hand to give them for testing too. They do not/cannot bench test PCM's. Maybe the OEM can and probably do before they are shipped out, but no one else can/will/has.
#4
#5
Are you getting any error codes? Get an ODB-II reader (borrow one) and check for any detailed codes. Otherwise, look at this forums sticky link on how to do the Dodge "key dance" to get the 2 digit code numbers that you may have. Ignore 12 (disconnected battery within 50 key on cycles) and 55 (done, no more codes). Anything in between write down.
Have you checked the Fuel Relay, the Auto Shutdown relay? Have you checked the Crankshaft and Camshaft position sensors? All of these are more common then bad PCM. Also check the Coil packs as yet another common issue Neon's have - check the resistance values. Check to see if you are getting a good spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester light. Get some noid lights and check the injectors to see if they are getting fire too. Get the Haynes manual if you don't already have one.
If you can, you may be able to find a junkyard near you that has a PCM cheap that you can try. You will need to get one from a car that has the same type of tranny as you do (MTX vs. ATX), and the same motor type (SOHC vs DOHC), and as close to the year as possible with the exception of 1995 which is a world into and of itself and is only compatible with other comparably equipped 1995 models.
Have you checked the Fuel Relay, the Auto Shutdown relay? Have you checked the Crankshaft and Camshaft position sensors? All of these are more common then bad PCM. Also check the Coil packs as yet another common issue Neon's have - check the resistance values. Check to see if you are getting a good spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester light. Get some noid lights and check the injectors to see if they are getting fire too. Get the Haynes manual if you don't already have one.
If you can, you may be able to find a junkyard near you that has a PCM cheap that you can try. You will need to get one from a car that has the same type of tranny as you do (MTX vs. ATX), and the same motor type (SOHC vs DOHC), and as close to the year as possible with the exception of 1995 which is a world into and of itself and is only compatible with other comparably equipped 1995 models.
#7
I have checked the fuel & autoshut off relays and replaced the coil. The fuel pressure goes up to 50 lbs while starting the motor then holds @ 38 after the key is turned off. The timming marks on the cams still line up. It tries to start but after the first hit it don't hit again. Right now I'm limited on what I can do I had back surgery on 12/7/09 and the doc won't let me do any heavy lifting or crawling around under the cars so I can only test what I can reach standing or on my knees. Hope I can start driving today.
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#8
After a closer look the timming marks on the cam sprockets don't line up. Just by looking at the belt it still looks ok only about 10,000 - 12,000 miles on it. The question I have is if the tensioner is weak could this make the timming off? I will have to weight before I can take it apart just looking for some input.
#10
It is now running my buddy come down and took it apart for me. We found that the tensioner (stationary) bearings had come out and let the belt slip. Lesson learned when you replace the belt don't do just the water pump but also do the tensioner pullies. Thanks for the help, hope this will save someone else some time and money.