My son has a 98 SOHC 2.0L
turns over fine but will not start what do I need to look for I think its fuel pump but what do I need to look for please help
thanks

 

Here are some quick things you can do to hopefully pinpoint the problem area.

1) Depressurize the fuel rail by pushing the test port release valve (looks like a tire valve) then diisconnect the fuel line coming into the fuel rail and put a jug over the end to catch the gas. Turn the key to on and see if the system tries to pressurize the system. If it does, then turn the key off and then try to crank the car and see if gas pumps briefly.

2) Check the center wire of the coil connector to see if you are getting voltage when you turn the key to on. You need a multimeter.

3) Assuming your horn works, try replacing the fuel relay and then the ASD relay in the power distribution center (box behind the battery) with the horn relay (they are the same for all three).

 

bg
I came home to work on the car & turned the key on I heard the fuel pump come on.
so I cranked the engine & it started I turned it off a couple times & started it up again I did it a fourth time & the pump did not make a sound now it will not start again could it be the fuel pump. What else can I check to see why the fuel pump will not come on I switched the relays from the horn to the pump & still nothing
If it is the pump how hard is it to change can I go through the trunk or do I
have to drop the tank Thanks Kelly

 

Ok I checked under the car fuel pumps on pasenger side.
but is there any thing else I can check to see if it is the fuel pump indeed
parts stores want 222.00 for a new one outch!
thanks

 

That $222 is for a new pump, regulator, guage, and filter (all in one), so when you consider that, it is not such a bad deal.

Did you check for any error codes on your PCM? You can either do that by going to the parts store and letting them do a readout on your OBD-II port, or by turning your key to on/ then off rapidly three times and then turn it back to on one more time. Watch the check engine light and it will begin blinking. Each full error code is 2 digits long. Each number is separated by a long pause - so blink, blink pause blink blink is error code 22. Stop when you see error code 55 (all done, no more codes). You can repeat this as many times as you need to verify. Ignore error code 12 (battery has been disconnected within the last 50 cycles). There is a sticky thread on this forum where the codes are defined, or just google them.

How many miles are on the car? It does sound like your pump is intermittent as you can get it to crank and then it will not - but - it can also mean your cam and/or crank sensor is getting weak and going bad. You may want to check them before buying a new fuel pump assembly as you can get both sensors cheaper then it. You may even have a problem with it being all gummed up, so taking it out and cleaning the whole thing may fix your problems.

In order to change out the part, you have to drop the tank. It is not hard, but if you have a lot of gas in the tank, use the drain valve on the side of the assembly (it is covered by a rubber plug and a spring clamp) to get most of the gas out first. two bolts will allow the tank to drop and then it is easy to get the assembly out and back in. Just make sure you put it back in EXACTLY the way it came out.

 

I tried the key rapid deal & the check engine codes do not come up
how do I check the sensors on the cam & crank I am going to check the relay plug
in & the shut down relay & the pump with a ome meter tomorrow to see that I have
power flowing through the circuit

 

You really need to get a Haynes Manual as it has all the details, but basically you use the multimeter (mm) to test for input voltage to the cam and crank sensor by disconnecting the plug from the sensor and having someone turn the key to on. Ground the negative mm wire and put the positive mm wire on the input side sensor wire (I believe it is orange and I believe you are looking for +9v).

If it passes that test, then you have to see if the sensor itself is working by taking the sensor off, reconnect the plug, turn the key on, and for the cam sensor, wave a fairly strong magnet in a circular manner around the cam sensor face and watch to see that it fluctuates from +5v to +0.5v. The crank sensor has the magnet in it, so just wave a big hunk of steel at it and it should fluctuate from +5v to +0.5v when you move it away.

 

Ok did my engine codes and this is what I have.


42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles

Hmm is it my fuel pump I checked my ADS changed my relays still no fuel pump
help please

picked up the OBD-II reader from auto parts store & all codes passed I am at a loss

car has 147384 miles on it
thanks

 

get a ner fuel pump for it on ebay! I just bought one from radiator classics for my sons 1995 which has the same fuel pump as yours for $49.99 and $20.00 shipping. it works great and it only took 3 days to receive it fedex.

 

also the fuel pump was simple to install, i used the free instruction manual on autozones site!